When the engine was out I installed a new oil pan gasket FELPRO OS 34501R. A friend had adviced me to also put some RTV on the corners especially where the surface meets the timing cover, so I did.
After the first run I noticed that it was still leaking a bit, both in the front middle and rear middle. So now I have removed the oil pan again (what a PITA to do it with the engine in the car) and now want to be sure it's tight.
1) Was it a bad idea to treat the corners with RTV when using a 1piece rubber gasket ?
2) Is FELPRO good stuff?
3 The Haynes manual gives the torque values when using a cork gasket or when using RTV only : 7 ft/lbs for the small bolts and 18 ft/lbs for the larger bolts. Are these values the same when using a 1 piece rubber gasket ?

Thanks.

 

man on the first engine i built i had a heck of a time trying to get the pan to seal where the timeing cover meets the pan. i put silicone on the round part then put the gasket in followed buy more silicone on the gasket. let it dry overnight then started the motor the next day. also i had felpro but it wasnt one piece and i didn't go by the tq specs. yes its a pain with the motor in car.

 

I have a GM assembly manual and it calls for a torque of 89 inch pounds on all but the last two bolts and 18 foot pounds on the rear two. As for the Fel-Pro brand, it's one of the best out there. I have never had an issue out of them. I just rebuilt my engine and I used Permatex gasket sealer on the block and a little bit of RTV in the corners and torqued to spec and I have had no leaks at all. Don't go ape with the RTV, just use a moderate amount and you should be fine. I used Fel-Pro gaskets too. My oil pan gasket was a 1 piece rubber gasket too.

 

Thanks for the replies.
We don't use measure dimensions like pounds and inches over here, so maybe a stupid question : is 89 inch pound about 7 ft/lbs?
I can set my torque wrench in either Nw/m (our way) or ft./bs

 

yes about 7. you take the inch pounds and divide by 12 to get foot pounds

 

Thanks. I thought so, but wasn't sure.

 

Factory specs for one peice gasket are: Rear stud nuts- 17-28Nm, 1/4-20 bolts- 8-14Nm, 1/4 -20 nuts- 8-14Nm. I do not recommend applying any type of sealant between the silicone gasket and the block or flat area of the pan rails. Be sure to reinstall the rail reinforcement bars that were installed at the factory.

Apply Permatex "Right Stuff" or Ultra Black to the corners where the timing cover and rear main seal retainer meet the block and to both end seal grooves. Tighten the pan fasteners using a nutdriver, then let sit one hour. Carefully continue tightening, paying close attention to the end seals. It is common for the end seals to slip out of the grooves. Silicone in these areas makes it even more likely to slip, until the silicone hardens.

There is a product that my machinist uses, which I have yet to find. It is made by Edelbrock and is named "Gaskesinch". My machinist recommends this product for use on pan end seals. It helps prevent them slipping out of place. I have had good success using the method I have outlined. Just be careful that the end seals stay in place while tightening the pan.

 

Gasgacinch is good stuff, great for water pump gaskets also.
Permatex makes a gasket former it brushes on comes out dark brown similar result.

Have not looked up the PN assume its a factory replacement PN?

If youre using the blue 1 piece pan gasket there are torque limiters in it youll know when to stop tightening.

leaks and Chevys....like peanut butter and jelly lol.

Best of luck

 

edelbrock has the sealer you are looking for

 

I think what cuisinartvette is referring to is Permatex Aviation gasket sealer. The only problem with this product for the pan ends is that it doesn't set up hard. It will harden eventually but it takes forever.

 

Well, it's in and no more leaks. What a relief.
Since the additional RTV on the gasket didn't work fore me last time, I just put in the new gasket after cleaning the surfaces till I could see my reflection in them.
For those who have to do this job in the future, by lifting the engine in the car I broke the heater controle valve and the connector for the windshield wiper motor, so maybe it's better to remove them in advance (V6 engine).