speedometer problems
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Richmond VA
Car: 83 camaro z28, 92 xj
Engine: 305 Crossfire (lu5)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: richmond gear 3.73:1
speedometer problems
ok, so i have an 83 z28 crossfire. heres my problem
none of the guages work (accurately) the speedo does not work. tach wont raise untill 2000 rpm and i dont think its accurate. oil pressure does what my tach should lol.. temp doesnt work, gas goes between half full, empty, and full every time you start it.. any ideas? i do have another cluster.. but if this one is fixable, or the problem isnt the cluster i'd like to keep the original.. also picked up an extra ecm if that could be the problem.
none of the guages work (accurately) the speedo does not work. tach wont raise untill 2000 rpm and i dont think its accurate. oil pressure does what my tach should lol.. temp doesnt work, gas goes between half full, empty, and full every time you start it.. any ideas? i do have another cluster.. but if this one is fixable, or the problem isnt the cluster i'd like to keep the original.. also picked up an extra ecm if that could be the problem.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: speedometer problems
If the speedo cable is in place, you have other issues where it's concerned. The following link will provide the info you require:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...eedo-woes.html
JamesC
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Richmond VA
Car: 83 camaro z28, 92 xj
Engine: 305 Crossfire (lu5)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: richmond gear 3.73:1
Re: speedometer problems
If the cluster was previously removed, there's a possibility that it wasn't reseated properly. You might check to verify that the speedo cable is hooked to the rear of the cluster (a couple of 10 mm speed nuts hold the cluster in from the front, check those too). If not, that might be a good indication that the cluster was removed at some point.
If the speedo cable is in place, you have other issues where it's concerned. The following link will provide the info you require:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...eedo-woes.html
JamesC
If the speedo cable is in place, you have other issues where it's concerned. The following link will provide the info you require:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...eedo-woes.html
JamesC
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Gage Rage
Temp Gage:
With the engine OFF, but the key in RUN, ground the sender wire and look at the temp gage.
What did the gage do?
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Fuel Gage:
Remove the sender wire going to the gage.
Tape the bare end of the sender wire and put it aside.
Use a potentiometer with a value of 100Ω or the closest you can find.
Connect one end the potentiometer to the gage from the location you removed the sender.
Connect the wiper of the potentiometer to ground.
Turn the key to RUN.
Slowly adjust the potentiometer from 0Ω to 90Ω.
If the gage is bad it will exhibit the problem you have.
If the gage is good it will display a smooth transition from one end of it’s range to the other.
Therefore the problem is with the sender or wiring going to it.
You can use a loose potentiometer, or you can throw together a quick little panel like this one.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Tach:
There is circuitry in the dash near the tach.
It’s contained on a small plug-in PCB or integrated in the main board.
On or near the PCB you’ll see a capacitor, replace it.
Also on the PCB you’ll see a resistor chip.
Desolder pins 4 & 10.
Use a 500K potentiometer.
Solder it across traces 4 & 10.
Move the potentiometer to half way.
Start the engine and compare the tach reading with a test equipment quality tach.
Dial it in, unsolder the potentiometer, measure it and install a matching resistor.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain
.
With the engine OFF, but the key in RUN, ground the sender wire and look at the temp gage.
What did the gage do?
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Fuel Gage:
Remove the sender wire going to the gage.
Tape the bare end of the sender wire and put it aside.
Use a potentiometer with a value of 100Ω or the closest you can find.
Connect one end the potentiometer to the gage from the location you removed the sender.
Connect the wiper of the potentiometer to ground.
Turn the key to RUN.
Slowly adjust the potentiometer from 0Ω to 90Ω.
If the gage is bad it will exhibit the problem you have.
If the gage is good it will display a smooth transition from one end of it’s range to the other.
Therefore the problem is with the sender or wiring going to it.
You can use a loose potentiometer, or you can throw together a quick little panel like this one.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Tach:
There is circuitry in the dash near the tach.
It’s contained on a small plug-in PCB or integrated in the main board.
On or near the PCB you’ll see a capacitor, replace it.
Also on the PCB you’ll see a resistor chip.
Desolder pins 4 & 10.
Use a 500K potentiometer.
Solder it across traces 4 & 10.
Move the potentiometer to half way.
Start the engine and compare the tach reading with a test equipment quality tach.
Dial it in, unsolder the potentiometer, measure it and install a matching resistor.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Richmond VA
Car: 83 camaro z28, 92 xj
Engine: 305 Crossfire (lu5)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: richmond gear 3.73:1
Re: Gage Rage
Temp Gage:
With the engine OFF, but the key in RUN, ground the sender wire and look at the temp gage.
What did the gage do?
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Fuel Gage:
Remove the sender wire going to the gage.
Tape the bare end of the sender wire and put it aside.
Use a potentiometer with a value of 100Ω or the closest you can find.
Connect one end the potentiometer to the gage from the location you removed the sender.
Connect the wiper of the potentiometer to ground.
Turn the key to RUN.
Slowly adjust the potentiometer from 0Ω to 90Ω.
If the gage is bad it will exhibit the problem you have.
If the gage is good it will display a smooth transition from one end of it’s range to the other.
Therefore the problem is with the sender or wiring going to it.
You can use a loose potentiometer, or you can throw together a quick little panel like this one.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Tach:
There is circuitry in the dash near the tach.
It’s contained on a small plug-in PCB or integrated in the main board.
On or near the PCB you’ll see a capacitor, replace it.
Also on the PCB you’ll see a resistor chip.
Desolder pins 4 & 10.
Use a 500K potentiometer.
Solder it across traces 4 & 10.
Move the potentiometer to half way.
Start the engine and compare the tach reading with a test equipment quality tach.
Dial it in, unsolder the potentiometer, measure it and install a matching resistor.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytimeand the ones that need headlights for a little rain
.
With the engine OFF, but the key in RUN, ground the sender wire and look at the temp gage.
What did the gage do?
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Fuel Gage:
Remove the sender wire going to the gage.
Tape the bare end of the sender wire and put it aside.
Use a potentiometer with a value of 100Ω or the closest you can find.
Connect one end the potentiometer to the gage from the location you removed the sender.
Connect the wiper of the potentiometer to ground.
Turn the key to RUN.
Slowly adjust the potentiometer from 0Ω to 90Ω.
If the gage is bad it will exhibit the problem you have.
If the gage is good it will display a smooth transition from one end of it’s range to the other.
Therefore the problem is with the sender or wiring going to it.
You can use a loose potentiometer, or you can throw together a quick little panel like this one.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Tach:
There is circuitry in the dash near the tach.
It’s contained on a small plug-in PCB or integrated in the main board.
On or near the PCB you’ll see a capacitor, replace it.
Also on the PCB you’ll see a resistor chip.
Desolder pins 4 & 10.
Use a 500K potentiometer.
Solder it across traces 4 & 10.
Move the potentiometer to half way.
Start the engine and compare the tach reading with a test equipment quality tach.
Dial it in, unsolder the potentiometer, measure it and install a matching resistor.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
How bout those too scared to drive without headlights in the daytime
and the ones that need headlights for a little rain.
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