My 305 TBI will not start when its cold outside. It turns over, but will not start unless I hold the key in the start position for about 30 seconds. It runs for about 2 seconds and dies. After 10 times it stays running. if i try to drive it, it shuts down. Once it warms up its fine. Im worried about burning the starter out. also some times the rpms stay up high after the tires spin in the snow, keeping the tires moving- i cant put it in park or the tranny grinds beacuse im forcing it gear to gear.

Help?!?!?

 

Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to on?

Sounds like you have much greater issues than starting (ie the tranny). Might need to get a beater car and set this one up until you can get all these issues resolved.

 

The fuel pump does prime- the train only does that when it's COLD out

 

Make sure your wheels aren't spinning when you put the car into park, that'll save you a transmission case. Even if the rpms are a little high if you can't keep them from spinning you need to address your brake system. Once it fires up for the first time give it just a little bit of gas to see if you can keep it alive.... Sorry I can't help more I'd have to see car in person in this case.

 

Will do, thanks! Anybody have suggestions as to why it does this stuff

 

Oil pressure sending unit could be going. If it doesn't see pressure the car won't fire. Cranking the engine will build mechanical pressure and the car will eventually start.

 

any way to check it? I do all of my own suspension/brakes...but i've never really had a car where i could learn the motors....any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Oil pressure sending unit will run the pump IF the fuel pump relay is not working. Since the pump is priming, the fuel pump relay is working. Thus I don't think there's anything wrong with the oil pressure sending unit (since it's not even doing anything at this time).

Usually, IF the relay is not working, the pump doesn't prime. Since the pump doesn't prime, it takes a while for the oil pressure to build up (from the starter turning the motor over) so that the oil pressure sending unit can activate the fuel pump and start running it.

You might try replacing your fuel pump relay, but I'm not sure that's the problem since you say that the pump primes. You could 'test' the theory before buying a new relay by swapping the fuel pump relay with the coolant fan relay - they should be both the same relays. Just mark one of them beforehand, so you know which is which. Both are located on firewall, driver side, between brake booster and fender - there is a bracket there held to firewall with 2 10mm bolts holding it to firewall. On the inside of that bracket, there are two square relays. The one for the fan has a large black with red stripe wire to it, the fuel pump relay is the other. mark the fuel pump relay, and then swap it with the fan relay and see if the car starts normally - if so, then you know the relay was bad - now go get another relay and replace the bad one.

 

Yes, this is correct. I had a brain failure when I responded and never went back to correct/elaborate further. Thanks for keeping me straight.

 

I think camaronewbie is on to something. I forgot about the older FI cars that had the oil pressure wired in with the fuel system. (mine is carb'd so its pure mechanical)

 

If you want to replace the the relay, Hawks has new ones for under $20. Given that I am having this exact issue and my relay is 25 years old, I am going to just replace it. I'll probably replace others too since I have various idle and fan issues.

A photo is always helpful for stuff like this:

 

I'm guessing 7 years later it's most likely been resolved.

GD

 

Too bad the OP didn't have the decency to report back final outcome. Loss of intelligence for the rest of the forum members. Owes it to those who took their time to contribute.

Even if it's "I got disgusted and junked the car", something please .