This morning I let my 1992 Camaro RS 305 run for about ten minutes to warm up. WHen I went back out and got it, it was still freezing. It takes atleast 20-25 minutes for warm air to start coming through the defroster vents. And when it does, it's very little air. Is it normal for the car to take that long to warm up? It takes forever for the temp gauge to reach the 220 mark.

What could be the problem? It's my daily driver rigth now, and it's freezing here a lot lately.

 

I'd start with low coolant level. Even if the overflow tank looks full, check the actual radiator (when it's cooled off, of course).

Next would be a stuck-open thermostat.

 

I just replaced the thermostat last weekend and we added coolant when we did that too.

 

What temp stat did you use? If you used a 180, you'll never get warm heater temps up there in the frigid north!

Do you still have the heater diverter valve? Maybe it's not working right? it opens and allows warm coolant into the heater core - if it's closed, you won't get any warm coolant in the heater core.

 

I used a 195 thermostat. That's what was originally in there after I took it out and found out. How do I know if the diverter valve works?

 

Naaa I run a 180 in my V8 and get plenty of heat, if the OP isn't getting heat till near full temp of 220, something is wrong. I get heat well before I reach full temp.

 

How long should the car usually take to rear 220? Just sitting at idle.

 

Dunno, Id never let any car of mine run over 200, but it shouldn't take more then 10 min to start to get some heat, is your fan running all the time?

 

If the defrost is on, the fan turns on. Isn't that how it's supposed to be? After 10 minutes, it's barely to the second line.

 

If fan is running, it is going to take longer for a vehicle to completely warm up. However, if the fan is running I'd wonder how it's even getting up to 220 degrees.. Any other issues you've been having? How does it drive once it's warmed up? Any coolant leaks you've seen? Have you checked fluid since the tstat was replaced?

 

your radiator fan dude, not the blower fan.

of course the blower fan comes on when ya turn on the heat..........

 

Likely both fans. The defrost position should also engage the compressor.

Little to no heat coming out of the vents with the motor warm:

1) Check the heater box flapper door under the passenger side hush panel. The temp level slide controls it through a cable.

2) Ensure the heater core is getting hot water. Check BOTH hoses going into (or out of) the core when the motor's hot. Should be same temp as the upper radiator hose. A blockage or faulty diverter valve could be restricting flow.

3) If this condition immediately followed any work involving replacing coolant, it's likely under filled or an air 'bubble' has gotten in there somewhere and will work itself out.

 

I'll have to see if the heater core is getting hot water. And I never really saw it get to 220 so I shouldn't have said that. How long would you say it takes for an air bubble to leave?

As I drive it, it seems to run fine. But i don't really know what running fine is! I let it run for 10 minutes this morning without the fan on or heater on at all. I turned it on when I get in the car and revved it up a little to see if it would warm up a little( it was just above the 100 mark after the 10 minute idle.) My school is about 20 minutes away and warm air started comming through the vents when I was 5 minutes from school. It's getting frustrating.

 

Try unplugging the wires to your A/C compressor and see how that goes.
GM has the A/C compressor cycle when you use your defrost setting of your heater. Pressure from the A/C compressor will turn on your radiator fan.

 

I believe the compressor is already disconnected. I know at least one of the plugs is. The previous owner cut the AC lines and removed the accumulator.

 

Great news! I pulled into the parking lot when I got home from school and decided to check the hoses to feel if they were warm. I checked the upper radiator hose and that was pretty hot, then I went to check the heater core hoses and was I moved them a little, the diverter valve broke and coolant went everywhere. Looks like i'm replacing the valve anyway. What does the vacuum line that connects to the valve go to?

 

The vacuum line goes to a switch on the AC control head behind the dash.

 

The ones I have seen have a fairly complex and problematic vacuum switch with multiple lines converging right behind the HVAC control ****.
I know because of the weather many people don't feel like making complex repairs right now and want to buy some time til warmer weather.
If you don't want to repair your heater control valve now, you could just use a section of hose to bypass the valve and install a manually operated ball-valve from the hardware store.
Many people do this mod because it cleans up the engine bay a bit and eliminates the vacuum line going to the valve.

 

Check your thermostat

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-92...e#ht_500wt_750

There it is dude. $3

 

I have replaced mine twice on my car.LOL

 

I replaced the diverter valve, and i figures I would check the rubber wheel valve thing on the controls. I got it separated and soaked it in carb cleaner like I've read on here before, but then I couldn't get it back together because the center pin won't stay in. I just ordered a new one from NAPA and see if that will help. I noticed that today mmore hot air was coming out of the Defrost vents.It might be because it's not as cold out, but it was still a lot faster than usual.

 

I figured out yesterday that when it's on Defrost setting the fan is NOT on. But it still takes forever to warm up. Today it took all day to reach past the 220 mark. That was with me putting about 24 miles on her with long breaks now and then. Any other ideas?

 

I would not let ANY vehicle go past 200 degrees. Go put in a lower temp thermostat. Also, make sure there is not debris between your condenser and radiator as that can make a vehicle run warmer than usual.

 

I was told these cars from the factory run till the temp gauge almost hits the red then the fan comes on. SO I think that part's fine. The problem is GETTING THERE. It takes too long.

 

You car will run better at a lower temp, not to mention will be quicker. So what if GM says running your car at 240 is ok. It's not.

 

Your car should never go in the red. It should hit maybe 235 max,but that would be in the summer with a/c on. That is what the fan on the passenger's side is for.

 

Your thermostat sounds like it is sticking. Replace it with a 180. Then you should run no hotter than 200 or so.

 

Alright i'm not worried about the temp right now. I just want to know why it takes long to warm up. I hate having to start the car a half hour before I leave for school and have it still just above the 100* mark.

 

I just replaced the thermostat with a 195.

I never said it went into the red, I just said that I read on here that the fan comes on just before the red. And I only have 1 fan anyway.

 

Are you sure the gauge is functioning correctly?

 

Everything your telling me doesn't seem to tell me why my car takes so damn long to warm up. Unless i'm not connecting what your saying. Please explain. I would love to figure this out before the spring comes.

 

Dude, change your thermostat.

 

I want to know know HOW that would change things and help. I'm not the type to just get told what to do and do it. I want to know why I'm doing what I'm doing to my car.

 

Always test the thermostat in a bowl of boiling water too, before you put it in. You may have bought a bad one. It is more common than u think.

 

Let me ask u this. How soon is your fan coming on after u first start it?

 

Alright, After I get home from school tomorrow, and I let her cool down I'll test the thermostat. If it is sticking, and I replace it, that should help her warm up faster? How long should it usually take for the car to warm up to a certain temp?

 

I've never had the fan come on. Not that I know of anyway. Only time it's come on is when I slide the HVAC slider past the AC controls then ti shuts off again when I get to defrost. I replaced the fan switch not too long ago because It would NEVER come on and overheat.

 

DO NOT worry about replacing the t-stat. The stock one is perfectly fine.

I personally prefer MY motor to routinely get above 220 degrees. It boils the water out of the oil (which is a natural product of combustion) and prevents said water from forming acids and the resultant sludge.

After you replaced the diverter valve were both hoses going to the heater core hot? Go back to the basics. You know your motor is getting to temp but the heater vents are not (at least not quickly). Compare the temp of the heater hoses to the radiator hoses. Should be equal.

Vacuum line connected to diverter valve? Try disconnecting it (and capping the end), see if it makes a diff.

 

What would capping the end of the vacuum hose do? I never did think to check the core hoses after I replaced the valve. I'll do that tomorrow.

 

If you disconnect it you don't want to leave it uncapped as a vacuum leak.

 

What I meant to ask was what will disconnecting it do?

 

heater core could be bad, I had one like that in my wagon, spent several years messing with it trying to get heat.

Even pulled the core out and water flowed through it fine, I could blow through it fine, but not till I changed it [$20] did I get good heat.

Meant to cut it open, but assume it was coated on the inside with goop of some kind, not letting it transfer heat well.

 

Sorry. The vac switch on the control head 'could' be bad and passing vac to the diverter valve all the time, keeping it closed....or someone may have inadvertently connected a full vac source to it.

 

I just got home from school and checked the hoses. The upper hose was hot and both heater core hoses were hot. This was with the temp gauge at about 220.

Where can I get a new rotator valve for the HVAC controls? The part where the 5 vacuum lines connect and it has the rubber piece inside.

 

I got one at Rock Auto about a year ago. When it's bad air will only come out of the defrost (and you can usually hear the hissing coming from it).

 

I just replaced the rotary valve with one form the junk yard, but now when I put it on Vent it gets really loud inside. As if the fan is inside the car! I can't seem to figure out why. When I go to HTR or Defrost, it slowly goes away. I'm guessing it's the vacuum opening a door which is allowing the sound to come through, but why is it so loud?