Last august, the drivers side motor mount (not the shell) loosened up and whenever i put the engine under heavy load, the engine and transmission would lift up.

About a week later i started trade school where im in class 40 hrs a week,on top of my part time job where i work 20 - 30 hrs a week. ive really had no time to mess with it, but warmer weather is FINALLY coming to the twin cities, and im itchin to drive my car.

I started wrenching on it a little bit back in august and found out that the back of the motor mount bolts are inconvenietly located behind the lower A-arms. Im no suspension expert, and i dont really have the time, specialty tools, or knowledge to take the suspension apart to gain access to those nuts.

My questions is this: What if i drilled and taped two holes in the subframe to anchor a chain over the engine, tightened with a turnbuckle.

-Has this been done or am i way off the map?
-Advantages/disadvantages?

Thanks,any input would be appreciated

 

HEy, or what about welding the nuts to the sub-frame so i can just wrench them off from the top. cause the chain thing seems pretty stupid.

Also, ive heard of people drilling slots in the a-arms for wrenchs. Is that worth looking into?

and i dont want it to seem like im lazy or trying to put in half effort. I just literally have NO time. this would only be a temporary fix. if i go as far as removing the a-arms etc. there going to get replaced with tubular ones and ill probably get some better springs while im at it.

 

With the right tools you can do the mounts without drilling or cutting or otherwise bastardizing your 3rd gen. I've done a few with the suspension together. Each time I swore I wouldn't do it that way again but can't always get the customer to swing for an A arm pull and I wont cut up a car to make my job easier. The tools I refer to are Snap On 15mm universal socket and wobbly end extension. You use the socket to hold the nut while you turn the bolt with a wrench. I say Snap On because that's what I have and I know it will fit. Cheaper brands are often more bulky and may not clear. Give yourself a day to do both sides. Take your time and don't throw tools. Theyre expensive to replace when you lose them.

 

Thanks doc. That's encouraging. would you suggest pulling the motor to make the job easier? That wouldn't be a big deal for me to do. Also you said a snap on 15 mm universal socket, is that a socket with a universal joint attached

 

It's a socket with a u-joint between the square drive and the hex end. I have done these with the engine raised via a floor jack and 2x4 on the pan rail. I always swore I wouldn't do it again without removing the lower control arms. If you pull the A arms, you may as well replace bushings and ball joints. PST offers excellent polygraphite(polyurethane infused with graphite) bushings.

 

I would agree you can get them with the suspsension on.
I did both of mine, just drove the car on a lift. It was a royal pain in the butt, but doable.
If you really don't have the time take it to someone.
My engine and transmission would lift about 3 or 4 inches when I got anything over half throttle when I bought my car. I don't feel it move at all now.