I'm looking to rebuild(250-450hp when finished) a 350 (first engine rebuild) and had some questions:

With a tight budget, which would be better. EFI or carb?

What are the differences between the 350 generations in terms of the block?

Will any transmission, such as a T-5 bolt on to a 350?

How many job-specific tools will I need to put everything together?

Does anyone know of a oiling diagram for the 350?


Thanks

 

carb or efi - going to depend on your local laws and what year car you have - not legal to carb a factory efi motor in all states/counties

V8 differences - nothing externally with block from whenever they started making them until the LS1 motor - LT1 might have some internal differences

tranny - yes, if it's a V8 tranny

tools - just basics - rachet, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. etc. Might want a torque rachet, available at Harbor Freight cheap. Need a engine lift when transplant time comes.

Oiling? Like any other SBC - they are all the same

 

I have all of the basics. I was mainly talking about things like valve spring compressors, cam bearing installers, etc

 

You will also need more tools if you re-doing the bottom end. You'll need a piston ring compressor and so on. As for spring compressors, it's on how much you want to spend you can buy assembled heads. Or even have a engine Machine shop rebuild the heads.

 

I was thinking these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRO-1020000
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRO-1021000

Still debating assembled or bare. I think I can get a better deal assembling them myself, which adds experience too.

 

Just do the math for the compression ratio to make sure your running the right Combustion Chamber, an make sure your cam matches your max valve lift. Another note to think about is if your running headers. It's much nicer to have angle spark plugs then, straight.

 

Theres a lot of nuances in assembling heads. You'll need to know about installed spring heights and various clearances and spring pocket sizes and potentially shims and so on... Invest in a good book if you wanna go that route. Of course you should be investing in some good books anyway.

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-...1539747&sr=8-3

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Yo...ref=pd_sim_b_1

Some of the info in the second book is outdated but you'll learn enough to know what the right questions to ask here are. And what questions to ask the machine shop. The dvd that comes with the first one is incredibly helpful.

Just take performance tips with a grain of salt in these, because some of the info can be old or outdated. Performance is all the top end. Your intake, cylinder heads, and camshaft will determine how much power you make, and for a lot of up to date first hand experience with modern parts consult us here at TGO.

 

With a decent NEW shortblock so cheap $1190, it costs about the same as a rebuild.
pick your cam, heads, induction

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12556121

 

or get a long block


there is no badge of honor for trying to install cam bearings or pressing in wrist pins

you'll be spending $$$ at the machine shop so either have them do it or get a long/short block

 

Youre gonna want to have any used parts checked by a competent machine shop anyway. For a little extra $ you can hand them the parts, have them check them, then assemble the long or short block. LOT less headache and effort on your part.

 

I can't afford 1200 for the block. I'm gonna get a junkyard block and have it cleaned, machined, and .030 bored. Everything else needed will be taken to the machine shop to press on.

 

Short block = a block with all that machine work done to it, all new parts, and the labor that built it

Long block = short block plus heads, maybe cam, maybe valve train, maybe oil pump, maybe tin, maybe even intake

I'll almost bet money that you can't buy a bare block, have it bored, honed, cleaned, checked, whatever ; buy parts; have the machine shop assemble the pistons & rods, press in cam bearings, etc.; and build it yourself from there, for less than $1000.

Which makes a $1200 BRAND-NEW assembly, with a GM warranty (therefore as close to risk-free as you're ever going to get), not such a bad deal. Or conversely, if you can't "afford" that, (a separate matter from just wanting to do it some other way) you probably can't "afford" to build one, either.

 

I plan on building everything myself. I checked and here are my prices(so far):

Machining, cleaning, bored-$350
Crank, bearings, caps (Lunati sledgehammer) -$800
Rods (scat I-beams)-$450
Piston kit (SRP professional)-$580
So with that setup I'm at just over $2200. For the 500+ hp and 650+ on spray, thats a pretty good deal.I'm considering the Summit 383 stroker block,$700, but I'm not sure if it can hold up to 650hp. Anyone know?

And while I'm on it, why is there 1- and 2-piece rear main seals? Which are better?

 

You're missing the align bore you need to put new caps on.

There are 1 and 2 piece rear main seals because GM changed the blocks. Whichever is better depends on which block you have.

 

just curious

how did you go from 250HP-450HP (which is a huge difference by the way) and tight budget, couldn't afford a $1200 short block or 290HP $1999 long block into wanting to build a 650HP engine and thinking you can do that for $2200????????????????????????????

I'm very confused now

Oh, the heads alone are going to be $2200 minimum for a 650HP engine

good luck doing it with a small block that can be street driven

 

I found a job
Oh, and I said 500 normally, which can be street driven and cheap.
Do you mean assembled or bare heads?
These are what I'm thinking.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...0002/-1?CT=999
http://www.dartheads.com/products/cy...der-heads.html
not sure which ones yet, but leaning toward the Edelbrocks.

As for valve train,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LUNAT...#ht_2932wt_947

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...#ht_3015wt_947

so yes, they are

 

I'm not going to get into cute little games where you look for a pair of hads for $1100 or $1200. You really need to get to the track and find some guys with a 500-600HP NA engine and ask how they did it and what it cost.

Hypotheticals are nice and browsing Summit etc is also OK, but you really need to set you goal for the vehicle, not the engine.

And you make a statment now about 500HP NA street driven that's easy and cheap. I'm going to bow out at this time because "cheap" is a relative term based upon how much on hand cash you have to burn. I know for a fact that a 500HP streetable engine is not "cheap" to me, never mind what you must do to support the 500HP NA.

 

What do you mean cute little games? Is there something wrong with all $1200 bare heads?
And I can't go to the track. The closest one(gateway, 60 miles away) shut down last year.

What do you mean goal for the car? I want it to be a low-mid 12sec. car that can be street driven and can corner moderately well. Basically a corvette in a third gen camaro with a 383.

well, according to hot rod, you can get 592hp for $2300 in a 4.6L


BTW, sorry to argue so much, It's just my nature.

 

A T5 Won't hold that kind of HP for very long either.

 

please understand something, it doesn't bother me in the slightest. My posting style on this and other auto forums is based from years of experience. You can choose to believe what you will. My suggestion to you is go for it and come back and let us know how you got a 500HP, NA, streetable engine from an OHV small block.

 

If that's your idea of cheap... go for it. You cant afford $1100 for a shortblock but you're spending twice that much on top end? The best way to make 500 streetable hp is to go Gen III/IV and even thats kinda pushing it.

You're gonna trash the T5. Get a TKO or a T56.

BTW, valves are pertty expensive.

 

From your experience, will the stuff I said before make 500hp?