hey guys, brought my 86 camaro into a shop today to get the brakes (which went ok), tach and a tune up if they thought it was necessary. so i waited and waited all day at work and when i got home my parents had already picked it up. they told me the guy said "i hooked up the tach but it just started going crazy and didnt work" which is fine, i guess il just have to put an aftermarket one in. BUT heres where it gets fishy, they told my dad that we need to get a new carb which will be around 250 bucks because this one is "dumping too much gas and it could be a safety issue if i pull out of someplace and stall".

this to me sounds like TOTAL bullshit since as far as i know carbs are one of the most rebuilt parts on a car, i have the edelbrock one for a 305 with edelbrock intake and as far as i know i can just tune it or adjust a screw and it would make it run leaner unless this guys talking about something different?

the "mechanic" also let them know that id need a new "center steering bar" for the front end because i could hit a pot hole and loose my steering completely, hopefully hes full of it, but does anyone have a photo of what the steering should look like on a 86? or what i should look for to see that hes not blowing smoke up my ***??

thanks

 

What was up with the old tach?

 

well the kid i got it from put an aftermarket "street/strip" distributor in it and the green tach wire was never hooked up, before you would turn it on and the needle would go from the zero to 10x rpm mark and just sit there, im not too worried about the tach more so about paying 260 for a center bar and even more for a crappy carb when i already got a decent one in there haha

 

If the front steering components are original, I would just get a new complete set up. That way you wont have to worry about that for years to come instead of just replace the center link. As for the carb, i'd go to another shop and get a second opinion. More than likely it's a simple thing the other mechanic is trying to make it out to be.

 

thanks and im not sure if they're original or not, i mean they arent super rusted or anything so i was wondering if theres something i could check them for, i kinda think hes just trying to throw us through a loop in it, and im defiantly bringing it to another shop in the morning and TELLING them whats wrong with it instead of asking them

 

A good suspension shop will check for excessive play on your steering linkage which include the steering links and ball joints.

 

awesome thank you, now just gotta figure out the carb haha and how much trouble is hooking up an aftermarket tach? im not totally wrench retarded i just prefer to be able to blame mistakes on a reputable mechanic

 

yeah. unless the casting is cracked, the carb needs to be tuned to provide the proper fuel.

as for the steering parts, they all have balljoints, and they do wear out. if they are, usually you can grab them with the front end jacked up and there wiull be play. If you have no idea when they were last replaced, than its probably time. FWIW, there are quite a few more parts than just the center link. the idler arm could need replacing, as well as the inner and outer tie rod ends on both sides and the adjusters for the tie rods. If you are doing one, might as well do them all. You need an alignment afterwards as well.

 

hmm so i assume you probably wouldnt suggest pulling these parts from a junked camaro would you? how much would a shop charge me for all those parts and installation roughly? like i said they still look solid to me

 

It's not the pieces that get "un-solid", it's the joints at the ends.

Spend $200 on some tools instead, and $20 on a Haynes manual, and start serving yourself rather than getting raped by others. There's nothing magical about turning wrenches - if there were they'd call it a science.

 

ive got plenty of tools and some knowledge, im just looking for a starting point to fix it myself and some advice

 

If you never worked on suspensions before, it's best left to those who do them on a daily basis. As they will have the proper alignment tools.

 

Same thing happened to me, took it to get the muffler right because it was bumping against the body driving me crazy. That only cost me $35 bucks. Then they told me I needed to replace the whole front suspension. So I did my research ask some question here for best parts. I ordered all new parts (moog). They also told me I needed a serpentine belt. So I got to auto store to pick my parts up and he said he forgot to ask if I had a smog pump. I told him I was not sure if I had one, I have never really heard of a smog pump.So he went out to my car, I lifted the hood and I didn't even need a serpentine belt, so he checked my suspention and said I didn't even need to replace any of it, just needed to oil everything. He said he had a friend with a lift and he would be glad to do it for me for free. It was really nice of him! I only have a little over 50 thousand on my 89 RS. So it just goes to show how some auto mechanics take advantage of you!!

 

Golden rule.Always get a second opinion

 

Getting advice from people at the parts store isnt exactly a bright idea either. Youre best bet as far as taking it to a mechanic is to ask around town about who to take it to. I find that the mom/pop type shops that have been in business in the same town for 20 plus years are usually great choices. There is a process for checking all of your front suspension parts, simply grabbing them while the car is on the ground isnt worth a damn.

 

Some mechanic will tell u anything just to get u to spend more money. If I have to take my car to a shop ill stay there and watch them bc I don't trust them I've been ripped off be for and now I work on my own firebird. If I do have to take it to a shop and I can't watch them ill mark the part that there changing to see if they really did the work or not. My dad told me about this bc he's done it be for and the shop he went to didn't change the part when they said they did. Watch out for the bad mechanics out there.

 

tell me what type of carb you have, a few pictures would help, AND I will post the info required to tune it or step thru an isolate and replace rebuild if required or adjust it as required for a tune up.
naturally having the basic tools like a timing light, vacume/pressure gauge and some basic small hand tools , and willingness to read some directions are required

 

you're in a tough situation. It sounds like your folks are paying for the repairs and are getting tired of tossing money at an old car.

You need to either have the cash yourself to pay for all the forthcoming repairs (and there will be many) or buy some tools and a Haynes manual.

I do not know of one mechanic that is a friend or any shop I've dealt with in my life that would KNOWINGLY risk their reputation and livelihood trying to screw over some kids parents for an extra $200- $500 worth of repairs.

I really cringe when i see rants on forums about the mechanic said blah blah.

Most are flat rate shops and if it says that it's 3.5 hours to swap a heater core then you will pay for 3.5 hours labor even if it takes them 2 hours.

You will also pay a premium for parts.

 

well i traded a dirt bike for this car so its not much of a big deal, i work like most people on earth so im paying for this car, hence why i don't feel like being told i should spend 300-400 dollars to slap a new carb on is bogus when i bring it to a shop literally less then a mile down the road tells me its fine but could use a one air screw isn't working as best as it could.

 

thanks a lot, i'm not sure off the top of my head. il try to look tomorrow but i know its all edelbrock parts, edelbrock carb & intake. one of the shops i brought it to just said one of the air screws werent as responsive as it should be

 

if you were local Id suggest just bringing the car or just the carb over

since your not local, buy the book and read this BOOK

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1477.pdf


http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Modify.../dp/1932494367

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...p=13666#p13666

1, Get a carb kit for your carb. and one large disposable tin pan like they cook a 30 lb turkey in to work in and clean parts in
get a couple cans of carb cleaner
2, Have a clean flat place with ventalation to take it apart. A table/work bench that gas or carb cleaner solvents won't harm is a good idea.
3, Take it apart paying attension to small parts, where, and how everything came apart.
4, Once apart, clean it well with carb cleaner, be sure not to get the carb cleaner in your face. (and carb cleaner will let you know about any cuts you may or may not have known about)
5, With compressed air,and carb cleaner solvent blow through all the passages.
6, Open the kit and match all your gaskets EXACTLY.
7, Check your float in a container of GAS and be sure it actually floats, if in doubt, replace it.
8, Install the new gaskets and reinstall all the parts. Be sure any small metal *****, springs, pins etc. or plugs are reinstalled in the correct location.
9, Make sure any vacume canisters function correctly and don't leak.
10, Adjust things as the instruction sheet says and in the order it tells you to do it.
11, Install your rebuilt carb with a new base gasket, make final adjustments, cruise.

 

I second what grumpyvette has typed.

 

thank you, im going to give this a try this week and hopefully it will go over good!