Short block 383! Anyway to tell if its good?
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From: Waynesville ohio
Car: 1986 corvette Z51
Engine: L98
Transmission: doug nash 4+3 speed
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
Short block 383! Anyway to tell if its good?
Hi guys i had a guy redo my heads and port them out. Well i found out i need a new motor or have to completely rebuild mine.
He has a 383 with a scat? crank and rods. Then he said molley pistons? He said it has like a 1000 miles on it. He said you can still see the cross hatching in the cylinder walls. He seems like a good guy but iv been screwed over on a engine in the past. He said with my heads and this set up he would like to order a cam for it so it runs good. He has a full on machine shop looks very good.
Just want to know if i can do any test on the block or anything... He said i could pull off main bearing or what ever i wanted...
ANY HELP?
thanks
kevin
He has a 383 with a scat? crank and rods. Then he said molley pistons? He said it has like a 1000 miles on it. He said you can still see the cross hatching in the cylinder walls. He seems like a good guy but iv been screwed over on a engine in the past. He said with my heads and this set up he would like to order a cam for it so it runs good. He has a full on machine shop looks very good.
Just want to know if i can do any test on the block or anything... He said i could pull off main bearing or what ever i wanted...
ANY HELP?
thanks
kevin
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Short block 383! Anyway to tell if its good?
thats probably the best way to do it... pull off the rod ends and look at the bearing surfaces. If they all look good then thats a good sign. If it has old oil in it, check to see that its not milky.
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From: Waynesville ohio
Car: 1986 corvette Z51
Engine: L98
Transmission: doug nash 4+3 speed
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
Re: Short block 383! Anyway to tell if its good?
Ok i will do! By the way he wants 1000 bucks for it.
kevin
kevin
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Re: Short block 383! Anyway to tell if its good?
Yup, have him pull off a main and a rod.
Check rod side clearance; should be .010 - .015" or so and all 8 should slide easily from side to side on the crank. All 4 rod pins should have about the same (more important than the exact amount).
Check crank end play by prying forward and rearward on it; should be .005 - .015" mroe or less.
Check the deck clearance of all 8 at TDC.
Look at the lifter bores for evidence of a rolled lobe in the past damaging the bore.
If it's been run, all 8 of everything should all look about the same. Oil should be clean, no sign of metal chips (rolled cam lobe), no sign of coolant, no sign of fuel wash (check by smell as well).
Other than that, just the general condition of the block; bolt hole threads, cleanliness, signs of leaks esp. the RMS if it's a 2-pc, coolant leaks anywhere like freeze plugs, etc.
1 large isn't unrealistic if it's decent parts and well built.
Check rod side clearance; should be .010 - .015" or so and all 8 should slide easily from side to side on the crank. All 4 rod pins should have about the same (more important than the exact amount).
Check crank end play by prying forward and rearward on it; should be .005 - .015" mroe or less.
Check the deck clearance of all 8 at TDC.
Look at the lifter bores for evidence of a rolled lobe in the past damaging the bore.
If it's been run, all 8 of everything should all look about the same. Oil should be clean, no sign of metal chips (rolled cam lobe), no sign of coolant, no sign of fuel wash (check by smell as well).
Other than that, just the general condition of the block; bolt hole threads, cleanliness, signs of leaks esp. the RMS if it's a 2-pc, coolant leaks anywhere like freeze plugs, etc.
1 large isn't unrealistic if it's decent parts and well built.
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