Replaced all sensors,fuel pump,ign.module,pickup coil,Ecm., and car still won't. Run properly. Hard to start, misses dies and wont start back.Can pour gas in intake and will start back.Wont accellerate properly bogs
under acceleration ,surges and dies ,noid light dim,this normal? Any suggestions?

 

The bogs under acceleration and surging/dying sounds like a bad Cat. convertor. Could also be starter,alternator. anyone else?

 

Exhhaust cut before cat but after o2 sensors

 

What's your fuel pressure?

 

45psi

 

Does it hold that when you rev the engine. Also, whats the voltage at the injectors? Should have +12V. Its also possible that its a ground issue at teh ECM if the 'noid light doesnt light to the usual brightness that it should on +12V. The grounds carry the current needed to run the injectors as theyre negatively switched. Check the grounds on the back of the heads to be sure theyre clean and tight.

 

is the fuel presure being measure before or after the filter?

 

Pressure test at fuel rail, grounds tight,car will sometimes run fine for a few min. Then just shut off like u turn off the key.then not start back pour gas in intake and start back maybe run maybe just multilingual it Burns that fuel.

 

Bad injectors? Bad ecu? I've had similars problems with both my cars. My 89 firebird ended up having bad injectors, my 86 camaro had a bad ecu. What do your injectors ohm out to?

 

Haven't ohm'd.injectors but runs fine sometimes so don't think its injectors,thinking maybe vats

 

change your fuel filter?

 

It could be the injectors still, on my firebird it would run fine for a while once it was started, then for no reason would idle erraticly and have no power. It only takes a few minutes to do and then you can definitly rule them out.

-Jim

 

Have changed fuel filter, changing oil sending unit today, no acceleration now at all was doing this previously but straightened out for awoke who knows? Not giving up yet appreciate the feedback. Maybe a chance yet!

 

No luck looking for more suggestions.

 

What is the ohm reading of all your injectors? Also, another member on here told me that when you first turn the key on (not starting) that the ses light should blink once very fast and then turn solid. This indicates the prom is still good. I would not rule out a bad ecm tho still. Did you buy it used or new?

 

Tried another Ecu. from another vehicle same response haven't ohms injectors. Yet,no vom will get one soon runs fine until u try to throttle or warms up but still misses at idle this is a new occurrence.

 

Sounds like EGR issues to me.

This is from the Haynes manual

If you have the Haynes manual this can be found on page 6-11.

I am currently trying to get my `89 IROC convertible running, I just bought it for $4000 and it hasnt run in 5 years. Its only got 67k miles and is in pretty good shape cosmetically. However, the wiring is in pretty rough shape in places due to a rodent problem in the previous owner's garage.
I have to try to find the wires that go to the EGR solenoid (located behind at the rear of the intake between the distributor and the coil, has several vacuum lines and a 2-wire plug). I have the plug with about 3" of wire, but cant find where they disappear into the loom. Anyway, I would check the EGR system if it were me, that sounds like the issues that you are having.... Check the referenced page in the Haynes if you have one, if not, I can type out the troubleshooting steps for you.

 

Ignition control module. Just throwin it out there.

 

Almost having the same problem here. Rebuilt engine and went to fire it up yesterday w/ nothing. Checked plugs, timing and wire layout many times. Plenty of spark. Car will run fine if you stand there with a bottle of starter fluid and feed the pleum. SES light does not flash when key is turned. I am going to go check the injector voltage and ohms and see what the deal is.

 

Good voltage to fuel injectors, will start and run until it goes to open. Loop. Or closed loop whichever one it is sucking extreme amounts of air through Iac._

 

Just went out and checked the voltage and ohm load on my injectors. 12.8 Volts on both the leads and 2.8-3.0 Ohms a piece.
Tried to manually pull up the SES light by connecting pins 5 & 6 and the fans turn on when the circuit is closed... weird... still no SES light.
A side note, the IAC motor does absolutly nothing when the key is turned. IIRC, it is supposed to extend completly to maxed out position when the key is turned.
Hey fred, at least yours has got some sort of life to it!
Good luck.

 

Yah

Yah about two ft at a time and then it dies. Check your emc grounds and your engine grounds maybe a solution they all should be at the back of the engine check body ground to hope it helps good luck! !!

 

Your injector ohm readings should read something like 0.015 and if you have any that are like 0.003 , then there is your bad injector.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g8PdrT0MCU

 

I have a '91 RS Camaro with the B4C police package, 5.7L 350cu V8
and
I have the SAME EXACT problem. I've done everything that you've listed, all the replaced parts etc.... with the exception of the ign.module...yet.

I also thought that it could be a bad relay(s) in the fuel line, or bad injectors.

also, when you start up cold, and the engine starts to warm up, does your oil pressure drop? Mine has been doing so and its nerve racking.
from a cold start, sitting overnight, its fine, runnin about 50psi. but as it warms up, its drops to barely 10.
and then it starts to bog and eventually will die out.

IF YOU FOUND a solution to your problem, please for the love of god, let me know, because i may have a similar, if not the same problem.

 

I am telling you that you have bad injector some where man. Check it out to be sure.

 

injectors should ohm out around 16. If they are around 3 they are bad. If you see 0.015, you have it on the wrong setting on the meter not a big deal though just move the decimal in your head (15)

-Jim

 

Any of you guys tried checking fuel pressure while under load, could be a weak pump, had all those problems with my Fiero right after I bought it, my brother had replaced the pump for the PO, so I didn't think it was the problem. Keoman, you have no SES light at all??

 

I'll check them again and make sure I was using the meter right. 3 ohms just doesnt sound right. (probably because its not..)

I wiggled the ECM and other random computer boxes around on the car and the SES light started working and the car started kicking over... bad ground i assume, or connection some where.
I just have to adjust the rockers.. the car is running like **** timed anywhere.

 

The tps could also cause this problem. If your tps has a dead spot or is way off on the voltage output you car could be compinsating for a wot condition that is not actually happening. more or less your car thinks your foot is to the floor so it's sucking air for that, when your actually at idle or half throttle . check the voltage. .54v closed and should have a steady and consistant rise in voltage as you open the throttle. (key on engine off)
This happend to my car. If I held the throttle to keep the car at about 1500 rpm the car would purrr. but if I let off the throttle or pushed the pedal down anymore it would chugg and die within a few seconds. Turned out the voltage output from the tps was all over the place. put in new tps and bingo.

 

FYI, BD1 and BD12 on your ecm are grounds. GE7 is your SES light.

 

Also BC16 is battery voltage. I would test these with your meter. You need to look up the procedure for testing a ground if you dont already know.

 

New pump, good pressure, new tps, fixing to disable vats will let y'all know the outcome, thanks for the input keep it coming,
Fred

 

Hey man ohm'd fuel injectors and got several different numbers just wondering what's the limits on these injectors seems like u have already been through this.

 

Thanks ninteyone had five bad injectors ,no wonder it ran like crap just glad to have people like u on here and somewhere to go for help Thanks a million! !!!