The 10 bolt will break in stock S10's. Doesnt change the fact that T5s generally cannot hold up to a 350. Some weak sauce 350s are fine, but any hot rod engine is gonna break it eventually.

Do a search, you'll find out the same thing. The GM T5 has a very weak case, under high torque it flexes and bends. Any kind of power shifting will kill it. Real torque will kill it. Aggresive shifting will kill it. A lot of guys here have been down that road and been disappointed.

Good thing about T5's is they're cheap. If you dont mind replacing a trans more often than you replace your clutch then the T5 is for you!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ate-today.html

 

Plenty of truth in that, but upgrading or replacing the 10 bolt is a MUST if you are pushing any kind of power. I will see how the T5 holds up with the new gears. I resisted going with the T56 because my car isn't even set up for a hydraulic clutch... The 82-83 cars just have a mechanical linkage. I also got bigger brakes from Stainless Steel Brakes because I was tired of smelling the stock ones haha.

 

To answer the question of what I had done to my car...

I had the suspension fully rebuilt with all the rubbers replaced with poly... New bearings all around, new springs and struts. Lower rear control arms, and UMI subframe connectors. Everything underneath the car that could fit in a sandblasting cabinet was sandblasted and painted.

Next I had the rear end rebuilt with the Eaton detroit locker rear dif and gears... T5 fully rebuilt and stronger gears installed, and PRO 5.0 shifter.

Engine freshen up (new 3" exhaust) crappy headers replaced with new ones, New poly engine mounts, downgraded from a racing clutch to a street clutch, MSD Pro Billet HEI distributor and had the intake manifold reinstalled. Higher volume Edelbrock fuel pump (My top end issues were due to my old pump barely putting out enough pressure and she was leaning out hard)

and a bunch of other little cosmetic crap...[/quote]

Is that all? Anything inpresive you had done?

 

Any Audi is a little vague. We talking about an Audi R8? Aka the AWD 525hp V10 supercar? Or an Audi A3?

Drop a cammed 5.3L gen3 motor in your car and you'll be able to walk on alot of cars. There will still be faster cars but you'll be closer to beating 90% of the stock cars out there

350rwhp is easy with a cammed 5.3L LSx based engine.

 

An S4 with a funny muffler. I asked the same question. look at my response on page 2 I think. Feel free to post anything of course I'm just saying letts not repeate anything.

Correction. It's page one

Dont listen to me. It's in the middle of page 2.

 

If you do anything to the rearend, put a girdle on it w/ stops, really helps stop the flexing, ring gear deflection, and bearing cap movement.....
Jegs part # 619-101-7.5G

 

Hell if money isn't a problem why don't you just put a Rocket engine in the car.. no problems then. race him form here till cali. hahaha not sure about the rest of you. I have chevelles Cuda's Iroc.. they are all built for certain reasons....with any amount of money you can make them do what you want. b ut I don't build cars to beat the **** out of them.on the track or the street

 

What will I have to do to have the the 4th gen suspention fit in the 84 do it have to cut anthing?

 

4th gen rear-ends are mostly a direct drop in. For disc to disc, and drum to drum its 100% bolt-in.
Drum to Disc and vice versa requires a proportioning valve change I believe.

 

How to install a 4th gen rear in your 3rd gen.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...-gen-rear.html

Read this one first though. https://www.thirdgen.org/4thgenrear

Hope this helps man.

 

Rear suspension is identical. Front suspension is completely different and you would need to build a whole new front half of the car to install it, for little to no real benefit beyond ride quality.

 

The 4th gen will stick out the wheels 2" more on either side. it's not a problem and it's maks it look cooler

 

If you like the look of your car wearing training wheels, then sure.



https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...374-post1.html
(note the first picture is with the stock rear)

On the other hand, you can get a similar, though MUCH MORE SUBTLE effect from using 4 front 16 inch wheels. The front wheels have an extra half inch or so of backspacing. The rear tires are a half inch out per side, somewhere around there.

This is what that looks like (My car)

 

That looks sick. Why would you say it looks bad? Also, my wheels/rims aren't stock, their 17'/10". i think they'll look good with the 4th gen rear. But anyway, the 4thgen rear is just right for the 3rd gen if you want more power and a better launch.

and it's relitively easy to install. Plus you get disc brakes, and all the other added bonuses from having a newer rear end.

 

I like that hood but what u guys think of the iroc turbo hood?

 

Just because it looks so agressive, i'd go with either the cowl induction, or the stinger scoop syle hood.

 

If they're the correct backspacing for a fourthgen rear they'll look just fine.

They're exactly the same internally. An 89-92 10-bolt's internals are all completely interchangable. The only difference is the 93-97 axles are longer and their disc brake calipers look a little different. 98-02 axles are slightly narrower, but not by very much. The gears and carriers are all completely interchangable. Earlier 10-bolts are exactly the same except there are a few less splines on the axles. Gonig to a 4th gen 10-bolt will not give you more power or a better launch. Gears may give you a better launch, but it depends.

and it's relitively easy to install. Plus you get disc brakes, and all the other added bonuses from having a newer rear end.[/QUOTE]

 

A lot of Those hoods say they don't work with out an air box and they say air box is tpi cars only so that means my 84 wont be functional will the hood won't when its on the car right

 

Are you guys joking?

 

not sure like i said there my plans still have to do write up but in my head its perfect