Recently I installed new vortec heads and roller rockers. After idling and tuning I heard a snap! I took off the valve cover and found the #1 exhaust rocker on it's side with a broken rocker arm stud. This was a brand new GM performance parts stud. There was no damage to the rocker arm, pushrod etc. I used an easy out to remove the broken stud, and one the the drill bits broke and fell in the water passage during the process. I eventually removed the broken stud.

Do I need to remove the broken bit?

Any idea why the rocker arm stud broke?

 

How did it get in a water passage if you only had the valve cover off?

 

The studs go into the water jacket... pull one, you're looking into water.

Most likely it won't hurt anything.

Hard to say why the stud broke, given the limited info... a possible cause though, would be 2 or more methods of rocker alignment in effect at the same time.

 

Are you using SA rockers or guide plates? How did you go about determining your valve train geometry was correct? Can you show us a pic or provide a parts list of what you are running?

 

As for the drill bit, most likely it wont hurt anything but you could try fishing for it with a small magnetic pickup tool. Another method would be removing the head.

 

No personal experience with vortecs, but don't they have really low max lift unless machined? May have been too little for your cam lift. Also, were new rockers 1.6 ratio?

Whatever the cause, better find it, you're bound to lose more studs.

 

Per sofakingdom, the stud goes into the water jacket, and so did the broken drill bit.

I noticed the number 1 intake rocker was a little loose, so I pulled it and found a bent pushrod. The rockers are comp cams pro magnum rockers, 1.6 ratio, zz4 cam and zz5 vortec heads from Pace Performance. The heads have been machined and upgraded to handle up to .550" lift with new springs and screw in studs.
I got the heads for $229 a piece, over a year ago, on clearance. I guess you get what you pay for. The engine never ran quite right since it was put together.
I first adjusted the valve train by turning the engine to TDC, then adjusting half the valves per the manual, then rotating it again for the rest. Engine ran ok, but with almost a miss, and slightly low vacuum, like 15" to 17".
I then adjusted per comp cams method by turning the engine exhaust valve just begins to open, then adjust the intake rocker. Then when the intake valve is begining to close, I adjusted the exhaust rocker.
The engine basically ran the same, but maybe I screwed up the #1 rocker adjustment the second time. Either way I plan the remove the heads to inspect the valves, unless there are other suggestions.

 

Did you personally verify that those heads are good for that much lift? I dont blame you for taking them at their word, I probably would have done it too if I were in a rush, but at this point you may want to check and see how your retainer to guide clearance looks.

If you're gonna pull the heads anyway that solves the dilemma about the drill bit. I woul hope it would be fine but the concern to me would be whether or not it could manage to find its way into the water pump.