I have a 350 and the cylinder walls are perfect but I can't say the same for the rest of the block. I want to get it dipped but don't know much about about it. Would I have to get it remachined if I did? About how much does it cost? Do you know a good place that will do it in north-eastern Ohio?

 

I would take the block to a machine shop first to check for cracks, tolerances, straightness and what not before going any further with a build. And, by dipped, do you mean cleaning it up?

 

No but if you get it hot tanked then you will have to replace the cam bearing = extra cost.
Cheaper to spend some time with degreaser and just to pressure wash it if block checks out OK

 

how do you know they are perfect?

about getting a block cleaned; absolutely!!!!

the shop will also magnaflux it and tell you about the deck and anything else which they suggest including the cylinders (you do want it done right don't you?)

the whole concept of doing things correctly vs mickey mouse seems to have been lost in the newer generation (sorry)

please do this for me. Grab a drinking straw the next time you are at McDonalds or BK or anywhere. Then, blow through the straw, it works doesn't it. Then, go get some sand or a little pebble and stick it in the straw, blow through it again. Do you notice that less air can pass through??? Is that how you want your oil to circulate through the engine or did you like straw experiment #1? What happens to metal components in an engine which are oil starved? You'll be slapping in new parts with tighter tolerances.

Is it worth $200 to not mickey mouse the thing?


common sense really does still have a place today and hopefully the little straw experiment will help you understand.

 

Torque_is_good was correct in saying that it's best to do things right as opposed to trying to cut corners to save just a little time and money. In the short term it may work, in the long run however, you spend much more. He could have been a little more tactful but right on the money, nonetheless.

Try calling machine shops in Warren or in Youngstown. You live in steel country...there are bound to be many competent machinists to serve your needs. Do your homework and research shops, eventually you'll find the right one. Even if they are more expensive or you have to go out your way to get to them.

Often times, the excitement of driving your car the way you invision is powerful. Be patient.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all the replies and I was planning on buying an engine kit for it so I don't care if it takes off all the bearing and gaskets. I just don't want to want to machined the cylinder walls because they are almost perfect.

 

There are a number of good machine shops in the Cleveland, Akron areas. Any respectable shop isn't going to do a thing to it until they 'hot tank' it. Cleaning is ALWAYS the first step.

 

My local shop wont even hot tank blocks anymore. They just bake them. I figure the hot tank probably works a lot better and they seemed to imply the same thing, but they said the environmental regs were real harsh about it.

Maybe they were BS'ing me, who knows.

 

we're being asked about a $200 expense which is common sense stuff. To simply say to a poster that it's a good idea seems to no longer be enough. That is why i use analogies with everyday things in the hopes that the poster understands the importance. You get it, but you understand the inner workings and the need to get the cleaning done.

 

you don't know that. the machine shop is the correct place to determine that

 

I have tools at my house to determine that. I measured the bore and it is just a hair off of what they were brand new. The pistons are also tight so I know the cylinder walls are as good as they get.

 

The machine shop wouldnt bore it if they didnt need it. At least have it honed for new rings for proper break in. If you have a good shop they're not gonna do a bunch of expensive operations to the block unless it needs it. A shady shop might, but I doubt it. They want you to spend your money with them, not scare you off with a $1000 estimate.

You probably want new pistons anyway, unless you've already bought stock bore pistons, they cost the same regardless of bore. Some .010 over pistons arent a big deal. Most blocks go .030 over.

 

Yeah I was going to buy new pistons even though the old ones are really nice but they are inverse domed and I am gonna get some flat tops for it.

 

How much is "a hair off"?

Then buy oversized versions of the pistons & rings you were looking at and have the block bored & honed to match them.

 

The thing is the cylinder walls are almost perfect so, I do not want to bore it out. I plan on keeping this car for the rest of my life and I don't want to shorten the engine's life by boring it when it doesn't need to be.

 

I'm not sure about the shortening of the engine life. A properly rebuilt engine will give you years and years of life as long as it's properly maintained. If you cut corners, then that life cycle diminishes (naturally)

it does not hurt to get the opinion of the machine shop. THe last engine that I did looked nice and clean on the cylinders and for about 2 seconds I considered just honing; 2 seconds later I caught myself and off it went to the shop

 

Okay I will look into prices for the machine shop to check the cylinder walls just to make sure everything is good with it.

 

If you're gonna keep the car the rest of your life, have the shop sonic test the block for cracks and cylinder wall thickness. That way, you'll know for sure what you have.

 

please do us a favor and let us know the breakdown of pricing quotes

my last build I ended up driving an extra 30 minutes to save $1,000.

We used to have 2 machine shops here but one went under so the last man standing charges a fortune.

He quotes over $1,000 for work not including heads or parts

basically dip, magnaflux, bore/hone, deck and the labor to rebuild the short block

you then add parts and the cylinder head work and mama mia

I live in what some consider an affluent area and drove to a more modest area to use that shop. I'm curious what pricing is in your area

 

It is $65-75 dollars to get an block hot tanked. I am doing the rebuild myself so I am not sure how much they would want to rebuild the whole engine.

 

they should also quote you cost to magnaflux, inspect cylinders and bore/hone if needed

installing cam bearings

are you using all new parts? If not, you don't know if the crank needs to be ground and thus which bearings to get

are you having the rods resized or using new ones? if new, are the pistons already attached and you don't know what size you'll need until the cylinders are checked and or bored/honed. I gave up years ago trying to press on pins myself and just pay the shop to do it and i'll never do cam bearings myself again (unless I'm in a jam)

the shop will give you the specs of all what you'll need to buy.

I'm just curious what their rates are compared to the west coast of FL

have fun

 

Yeah I have the tools to hone the cylinders and I measured the bore and it is a five ten thousandth of an inch of what it was coming from GM brand new. For the pistons I am using the same rods but different pistons my dad has a friend with a machine shop, so I should have no problem with the pins and everything else.