Ok so Im trying to get my car back up and running.

I replaced:
-sparkplugs
-wires
-cap
-rotor
-ignition control module
-distributor

The car still wont start though. I checked with a timing light and confirmed that I am not getting any spark whatsoever. I have fuel pressure though. Any ideas what I should check? The car is a 1985 firebird V6 however the ignition system should be the same as the V8s as I checked with my Manual. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated as I really want to drive my car once again.

 

I just went and checked to make sure I was getting power at the (pink) wire when the key is in the on position. I confirmed that the ICM is getting power from the pink wire itself. Car still has no spark though.

 

When you say you replaced the distributor do you mean the ENTIRE thing?

Have you checked the coil? Or the pickup coil?

Have you checked that your getting power TO the distributor? If you are or are not that helps with the diagnostics big time.

Have you checked multiple plugs for spark?

 

The entire distributor was replaced, including the ICM since my factory one was cracked. I did verify there was power going to the distributor from the red/pink wire that comes from the coil. So the dizzy is getting power from the key on ignition. I also checked multiple wires with my timing light for spark and there were none. I also checked the plugs themselves and there was no spark.

 

Ok, so theres power TO the distributor but none leaving.

Did the distributor come pre-assembled or did you assemble it? Could it be assembled wrong? (wires not connected right, ground strap left out of coil, things like that)

Have you checked for power to the ICM?

 

The dizzy came pre-assembled. I basically just stuck it on the car, set the timing to approx and tried to start it. Then I tested the other parts after finding out there was no spark. I have not checked for power to ICM. Actually Im not sure how to check for it. Can you tell me what to check for? I will try tomorrow after getting home.

 

I actually just noticed you said this lol: I confirmed that the ICM is getting power from the pink wire itself.

So i guess u did check it? Or maybe you meant to say something else is getting power?

 

whoops actually Im mistaken. There is power going to the ICM (fat pnk wire). The big wire from the coil itself going to the dizzy has no power in it. Sorry for the confusion. I got all messed up because the ICM is at the bottom of the dizzy.

 

OH, ok. No problem, it happens lol. Sounds like either coil was possibly installed wrong or is bad. Maybe the wire from the coil to dizzy is bad?

 

The wire from the coil is fine, I tired both the new wire I got and the old one that came off the car. I will be trying to test the coil itself tomorrow. Thanks for the input thus far.

 

I would Check your ECM, Disconnect a Fuel Inj and use a Noid Light to See if it is getting power in that part or if your ECM is Bad

 

Oh k let me get this, you've replace everything with new stuff. You have power to the coil and the distributor, it should work. Correct. Just for ****'s and giggles did you check to see if the distributor is turning? ( I'm not trying to be funny)

 

I just tested the coil itself today. The red wire has power going to it. The ground side of the coil itself has no flashing pulse on cranking. And yes the dizzy is turning with the engine. I will check the fuel injectors next. Although Im almost positive it should be sending the ECM a signal, as the injectors themselves work perfectly fine. Im starting to lean towards the ECM going bad. I tried checking for codes and none were stored BTW. Just code 12 which is normal.

 

ok, yea so i would just see if they are getting signal and if not there is a problem in the ecm, hopefully its not the ecm.

 

I checked for pulse today. The injectors are giving off a pulse. I talked to six shooter a while back and he said the car should still crank without and ECM, well it should still spark. So I decided its probably a bad parts store ICM in the dizzy. So I just took it back and am gonna have to wait till thurs to get it.

 

I don't know about your year of car, but I have a 92 firebird. On mine, I get 12 v, when the ignition is on, on the pink wire going to the ignition coil. When starting the car, you can completely eliminate the distributor and rotor, but simply disconnecting the spark plug wire going from the ignition coil, to the distributor. Test for spark using the post on the ignition coil by throwing a spark plug wire on it, and putting a plug in the end of it, ground out the side of the plug, and try and start the car, you should see spark.

I'm in a similar situation as you, only I haven't spent all the money to replace all those parts yet, as I'd like to narrow it down to the specific part that is faulty. I will say you can take the ignition control module, to a autozone/advanced auto, and they should be able to test it for you, for free. With you saying you've replaced everything but the ignition coil, I'd say replace the ignition coil.

 

Ok so big update: I ended up taking the car to a shop. They managed to get the car running for a bit, but the wiring around the ignition stuff got too hot and burned up some of the wires. Anyone have an idea of what might be causing this? Im not sure which wires the guy was referring to since I havent looked at the car myself. But I will be picking it up tomorrow. Atleast the shop wont be charging me any money for the work they have already done on it.

 

watching to see the cause of this

 

Well after talking to the guys at the shop, the car indeed starts. The problem was the ICM. Which they replaced for free and tried to time the car. I guess I misunderstood the guys over the phone. Apparently the car starts but the idle shoots to 3-4k rpm off the bat. They thought it was an electrical issue, but I have a feeling it has to do with my MAF and TPS and vacuum lines. Anyhow I picked up the car free of charge and towed it back to my place. Now I just need to figure out why the idle is soo high. I will throw in th spare MAF I have and check the TPS tomorrow.

 

Your ECM could be bad too, I believe with ODB1 it's fairly simple to change the idle rpm