Once again I am on this website asking for your very knowledgeable help. I'm going to basically just tell you guys everything I've done so far so you can maybe help point me in the right direction.

The car is an 85 iroc, with a 305 tpi (guy who sold it to me claimed 350 but I looked at the block code).

Car was running fine most of the day, started getting a little on the hot side (needle got to the half way point, normally stays around a quarter).. but that was due to a faulty cooling fan that I need to address. I get to a light, and the engine was sputtering/hesitating, so I smashed my foot on the brake and gave it some gas which in turned stalled it. After sitting in the middle of the road at a green light trying to start it a few times, decided to push it off into the nearest parking lot.

Was sitting there trying to start it, not being too mean to my starter. I checked all the fuses, all of them were good. Pressed down on the shrader valve on the fuel line, and gas barely came out, indicating low fuel pressure.

The previous owner before me rigged a kill switch into the fuel pump wiring and ended up bypassing it, terminal C of the FP relay goes straight into the fuse block on a 30 amp fuse.. never had any issues like this. When I put my key forward I would always hear the fuel pump humming away. While sitting in the parking lot however, I did not hear the familiar hum. Ended up killing the battery in my continuous attempts of trying to start it and getting the fuel pressure up (which didn't happen, although the engine did start about 15 minutes after it died, but was backfiring like crazy and running like complete crap so I turned the key off after about 10-15 seconds of it running like that). My girlfriends mom has AAA roadside assistance, so we got a hold of her and had her get a tow truck to come pick me up and drop me off at home.

Today, I ripped nearly every bit of interior out of my car to trace wiring and figure out if I could isolate the issue. Behind the back seat, where the wiring for the fuel pump goes from in the cabin, to out of it, has 3 wires.. one is black, one is pink, and one is brown. The black wire is grounded close by, the pink and brown wires run down along the floor boards to under my dash. The pink wire had 2 volts on it and the brown wire had a solid 12 (still no fuel pressure, at all).

In my attempts I ran a hot wire from the battery to terminal C of the FP relay, making the relay click.. normally this would have turned my FP on but it is not doing so now. I also tried running a hot wire to the G terminal of the ALDL connector but to no avail (I've read before that putting 12 volts to the G terminal of the ALDL would cause the FP to turn on, and thus create that familiar hum).

So at this point, I'm considering cutting an access panel in my hatch to replace the FP because I don't have the tools or resources to drop the gas tank, I know it's not the most ideal of situations but at this point it's my only option in regards of replacing the fuel pump.

I know my car is a wiring nightmare, I've had my fair share of tracing bad wires and figuring out why things don't want to work, but I don't fully believe that this is necessarily the current case.

TLDR: No fuel pressure, fuel pump is not turning on even when 12 volts is being shown on the wires. The car has 175,000 with which I'm assuming is the stock fuel pump.

What are my options here folks?

Once again, I want to thank all of you who read this and gives their

 

Increasing looking like a bad pump

Only confirms coil in relay is working ; could be bad on the power contacts,

See above ;Power to pump on G still runs through the possibly bad relay contacts

What happens if you put 12V on relay terminal A? ( relay output direct to pump; bypasses relay)
Pump fuse good?

 

watching this thread to see the outcome

 

Just read your response, put 12V on relay terminal A and it does nothing, with either the key off or trying to start, still no pressure at the fuel rail.

Relay contacts are pretty beat up, the wire for relay terminal C is pretty much just shoved into the socket and was originally held together with electrical tape (like I said this car is a wiring nightmare). I took some sandpaper and scraped at the contacts, cleaned them up pretty good, still the same issue though.

 

well i say the pump is gone, and at 175,000 this would seem to point towards the pump as well. so lets assume the pump is bad. i think you will stillneed to drop the tank because the few GM intank fuel pumps i have had to deal with, have all been compleatly fuesd and rusted into the tank, and we had to replace the tank as well as the pump. so that being said. i would hate for you to have to cut a hole in the car just to figure out that the tank neeeds to be dropped anyway. just my two cents, have a great day and good luck! we are all pulling for ya.

 

Just in case you have to fix the pump. I just did this yesterday incase you go this route. I havent installed the new pump yet but it gives you a idea.

 

I did about a 10 minute search through google trying to find gas tanks, to no avail. They are all specified as for a carb application, are they interchangeable? Does anyone know of a good website to grab one off of? Also, Summit seems to be exceedingly expensive and troublesome to navigate for a proper gas tank. Thank you for your time and help!

That is actually extremely helpful in helping me not blow myself up. I found this thread in which it gives some direction/guidance as well (2nd to last post), might help you out. Thank you!

 

Yup i didnt blow my self up.. I still need to flare the lines, so I put hoses on it until the pump comes.( I also cut another 1 inch back to get to the lines better from what you see in this pic)



I used this thread for a template of what I did.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...cces-done.html

 

damn came out clean edd

 

I recently pulled my tank to have a radiator shop repair the connection to the tank and filler neck. My 88 firebird that is fuel injected had a three wire connector in front of the tank, The three wires are Ground, 12VDC for pump power and the third wire is for fuel tank sender to your fuel gauge. With the key on you should see 12VDC on the ground and fuel power pump power wire in the middle of the 3 wire connector.
I replaced my pump while I was having the tank repaired. If you use the Delco pump it comes with a new oring to seal top of the pump and sender assembly. I searched for a tank and found Rockauto had a Spectra premium tank and Summit Racing had the similar tank under a different name. Many people complain they had to have the filler neck rewelded or soldered to fit. Be sure to use a hand pump to remove the gas from the tank first. Raise the rear as high as possible under frame in front of the control arms and support it with stands as you will need lower the rear end to wrestle the tank out.

 

I did the same to my 87 TA GTA...no regrets at all

 

Cut the panel today, at first I used a dremmel, cut about a 1 inch long section then took a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and basically cut it like that, had no issues with sparks that way even though the cut wasn't the most ideal (neither is cutting a panel for that matter). But yeah, ordered the pump/strainer today, going to drive head first into it tomorrow. I'll take pictures to document what I've done. Also checked the pump retainer ring, it's not rusted shut, it moved without too much effort.

 

About to walk my happy *** up to the part store to pick up the pump. I'm afraid of cutting the lines, that parts got me nervous as hell. Anyways, time is wasting and I need to get this crap done.

 

Cut the fuel lines, removed/replaced the pump.

Took some pictures and stuff. I broke the welds on the return lines, so I used some JB weld and took care of that, shouldn't have issues with that, put a liberal amount on both sides of the seal. Just have to run back up to the store now to get some 5/16ths fuel line, not going to do compression fittings yet, I'm very very limited on the cash I can spend, eventually I will swap the lines for compression fittings but not right now.

It was a REALLY easy process so far, although the blisters on my fingers would like to disagree. Hardest part (and most nerve-wracking) was cutting the fuel lines, but I used a pipe cutter so I knew there wouldn't be any sparks, still made me nervous though.

At this moment I'm just praying that it was my fuel pump, if I miss another day of school because of this I'll be dropped and all my loans will fall on me.

How is your project coming along fasteddi?

 

About a half hour ago I got the rest of the fuel lines clamped down, jumped the battery and it started right up. Car is a bit meaner too, the butt dyno feels at least 5-10 more horses.