Hey guys! I'm new to this forum but have been using it for some time for troubleshooting by reading the threads and so far its been a great help. I have just taken apart a 173 2.8 v6 to clean it out and rebuild it. I'm no pro mechanic so I'm gunna need some help. First off the car was running fine a few years ago other than a leaky gasket. My father and I took it apart put it back together and ran into some timing issues, never got it running. Well I bought it from him and stripped it all the way down so I can replace the timing chain gear all gaskets etc just for good measures, my luck i'd have to do it all over once winter hit kuz sumn would break. I currently have the chain exposed but have not touched it since i removed the crank case yesterday. Basically what I am asking is, What do I NEED to know before putting it all back together. I have basic knowledge of car engines, I have a shop manual, I just don't want to find out in a week or so I shoulda done this or that. I have almost everything back to its original look no carb build up oil grim etc. (BTW Easy Off oven cleaner is the most amazing carb remover I have EVER used even the cheap walmart brand as long as u avoid plastic, buddy cleans air plane parts with it.) The cylinders and pistons are in good condition and have wd40 to prevent rust from exposure. Any advice tips or information you can help me with I greatly appreciate. Lemme know if u need any more info Thanks!

-Will

 

That's a pretty open-ended inquiry. Normally, a good running engine doesn't get completely torn down. It would help to know how many miles were on the engine, how clean/dirty it was when torn down, what your plans are for the car, and what kind of a budget you are working with.

All parts should be inspected and examined for wear and/or damage. The last thing you want to do is reassemble an engine that is not going to run for very long without problems.

IMO, At this point, the very least you'd want to do is hone the cylinders, and replace piston rings and crankshaft bearings, and have the heads reconditioned.
Ideally, you should have your block, crank, and heads checked by a reputable machine shop for cracks, cylinder wear, and crank wear.

The more you do, the higher your costs will run. My own experience with the 2.8 has taught me that it is not a cheap engine to rebuild, and parts are often hard to find. Again, it helps to know what your plans are.

If everything measures up within certain tolerances, you might get away with a re-ring, new bearings, and a valve job. I'd also replace the oil pump while you have it apart.

There is also the option of just replacing it with a good running low mileage used engine. Some guys will "upgrade" by using a 3.4 Liter short block. There are sticky threads here that walk you through the process.

Tell us what your plans are and so forth. It will help us give you the right advice.

 

Currently it has 109k miles on it. The car was running fine before I tore it down a few years ago, like i stated there was a timing issue and I figured I have some extra money why not tear it down and replace all the gaskets and anything broken or worn. I have all the gaskets including the ones for the valves. The engine wasn't too bad as far as build up, 2 runs with easy off and I got most everything clean enough to eat off of. I still have a little carbon build in my upper intake but I could pull that off any day, I was mostly worried about getting the TB and the heads looking new. I haven't disassembled the valves yet because I haven't got the tool, but tomorrow I am borrowing one for that.

I am debating upgrading the cam, rods, lifters; what else would have to be replaced with a larger cam?

Here's a list of what I am replacing so far: Fuel Injectors, all gaskets, "dual row?" timing chain, camshaft, rods, lifters, possibly timing gear.
I had replaced all the simple stuff last time it was messed with like spark plugs and such, basic tune up stuff, and a sheared distributor gear from something my father did.

I am having a reputable mechanic coming to check out my cylinders pistons etc. but from what I can tell they are in great condition. He told me as soon as I pull the oil pan I should oil the pistons. Tips like this were actually what I was mostly getting toward with my original post.

I am trying to get this car running in great condition possibly a little more power without spending too much more ~$500 give or take and the gasket set and F.I. are already out of the way.

^^^^^^^ How much would this run me? ^^^^^^^^


Once again I appreciate any and all help thanks guys!

 

Oh and like you said, "Normally, a good running engine doesn't get completely torn down." This car was owned by a mexican "nothing racist" that half assed alot of stuff and I have already found a bunch of STUPID stuff he did, just wanted to be at peace knowing he did nothing inside the block. For example he but rocks in the rad. hose to increase HP....... I have no idea what this kid was smoking but it must have contained LARGE amounts of LSD for that to make sense. This is what caused the original issue with a blown head gasket.

 

So an update. I have come across a new dilemma. If anybody could help me with this it'd be great. I decided I am going to buy a performance upgrade cam kit and I need help on deciding which one I need/should go with along with pros/cons since I haven't ever done this before, heres the specs.

Weight: 29.0 lbs
Notes: High Energy(TM); 500-4500rpm; Advertise Duration 240 Int./248 Exh.; Valve Lift .390 Int./Exh.; Lobe Angle 108 deg.; includes cam/lifter/valve spring/return/ lock/seal/timing set

Lifter Type: Hydraulic flat tappet
RPM Range: 0-6750
Exhaust Valve Lift inch: 0.39 in.
Exh Duration at 050 inch Degree: 200
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 248
Intake Valve Lift inch: 0.39 in.
Int Duration at 050 inch Degree: 192
Advertised Intake Duration: 240
=========================
Weight: 19.02 lbs
Notes: High Energy(TM); 800-4800rpm; Advertise Duration 252 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .425 Int./Exh.; Lobe Angle 110 deg.; includes cam/lifter/valve spring/return/ lock/seal/timing set

Lifter Type: Hydraulic flat tappet
RPM Range: 0-6750
Exhaust Valve Lift inch: 0.425 in.
Exh Duration at 050 inch Degree: 206
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 252
Intake Valve Lift inch: 0.425 in.
Int Duration at 050 inch Degree: 206
Advertised Intake Duration: 252
=========================
Weight: 19.02 lbs
Notes: High Energy(TM); 1000-5000rpm; Advertise Duration 260 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .440 Int./Exh.; Lobe Angle 110 deg.; includes cam/lifter/valve spring/return/ lock/seal/timing set

Lifter Type: Hydraulic flat tappet
RPM Range: 0-6750
Exhaust Valve Lift inch: 0.44 in.
Exh Duration at 050 inch Degree: 212
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 260
Intake Valve Lift inch: 0.44 in.
Int Duration at 050 inch Degree: 212
Advertised Intake Duration: 260

 

If no machining of the block is necessary, and your pistons are within spec and not scored or galled, you should hone the block (clean it thoroughly afterward) and replace the rings. If the crank journals check out OK, just replace the bearings.

If you had a blown head gasket, you will want to have the heads checked for cracks and/or warpage.

As far as the camshaft is concerned, I would replace it with a stock camshaft, but that's just how I do things. I don't know enough about camshafts to be able to recommend a performance upgrade.

I would read the V6 forum. There are a lot of guys who upgrade their engines for performance, and they might be able to help. I do think that most of them will suggest swapping over to a 3.4 bottom end.

 

I had my heads checked yesterday and have absolutely no damage to them, I was informed that my best option would be the 500-4500rpm over-sized cam due to stock trans. I am going to hone my block and replace the rings after I finish taking apart the timing set, oil pan, and disassembling the pistons/cylinders. I appreciate all your help ternandes, if u have any more suggestions I'd love to hear them.

P.S. its a good thing i decided to pull the engine apart I found my timing chain to be pretty loose and im not positive but I may have jumped timing while trying to get it started years ago

also was reading the forum last night and came across a magnificent homemade RAM air through the fog light tubes, that'll be my next project after getting it running and maybe some headers if im not too broke by then lol

 

work carefully, double check your work, and do a CLEAN job.