When using a 180 stat, would it be better to use a fan switch that turns on at 200 and off at 185? Or a switch that turns off at 166 and on at 176?

 

I think you can get a switch that kicks the fan on at 200, and off at 180. The stock switch I believe is fan on at 225, and off at 195. I would need to look at the summit catalogue for exact spec. You maybe able to get one at an auto parts store. I believe there are a few different ones to select from.

 

Just do what I did, Remove the cig lighter and buy a 50 amp toggle switch and a $10 12v red light at autoz0ne. Now run 12v power (10 or 12 gauge) to the switch then splice that into the fan power (fused of course). And for the light, just splice that in farther down where you added the additional power line(fuse it, i always fuse anything i wire in. Better safe than sorry). This will make it so you know when the fan is turned on by the computer and when you manually engage. To mount the light, just use the instructions to find out the drill hole size, and press it in. Doing this means the car will run on the stock settings and you can manually control it. All for about $15 ( Of course i had some wire and connectors) but yeah.

Funny note, when you turn off the fan, it takes a little bit for it to stop spinning, acting as a generator and you can see it pulse electricity back to the light.
Here's some pics:

 

You can also splice into the green w/white stripe wire and ground it with a toggle switch. This wire comes form the block temp sensor, and goes to the fan relay. Simply run a wire to a toggle, hook it up under the steering wheel (where I have mine), and ground it. When you turn on the switch it grounds the green with white stripe wire, and the fan comes on.

 

The preferred and much better ( factory ) way of manual control for the fan;
rather than running a main power supply through a switch inside the car

 

Either way is fine, I just prefer mine because I didn't know the wiring of the car, prefer to see when the fan is on, and can have a back-up in case the fuse, relay or stock wiring fails.

And this can apply to any electric fan vehicle.

 

Many engines have needlessly overheated, and have been ruined do to a faulty relay or temp sensor. I understand your point. There are many drivers who don't pay attention to the gauges, and have a "plugin pay" mentality. I had a fan relay go bad on me, but I didn't let the engine get too hot.

 

There is a reason why relays were invented

 

True, I check my gauges religiously. Thanks for your input.

Back to the OP, either way is fine, just up to preference, and with Stevolwevol's way you will get a cleaner look to it instead of having extra wires running throughout the car. My camaro is no show room car by far, but your's might be, let us know what you did and how you like it.

 

I don't think it really matters with the fan, been running mine for god knows how long on there now and never had any problems. So long as I used good wiring and fused everything, it should be fine forever.

 

Fine forever???

 

Ahah, I meant like fine for as much as I'm going to use it. Not like literally forever.

 

You can also splice into the green w/white stripe wire and ground it with a toggle switch.

 

Your OPINION
The fact you couldn't work out how to wire your dist up ( plug the missing connector into the dist )
does not exactly qualify you as one to pass on electrical wiring advice

 

Must be a echo in here ?

 

O well, who reads the entire thread anyway?

 

Apparently he is lacking in original thoughts

3rd time in recent days where he has just cut and pasted someone else's earlier comments as his own

 

Woo I say.. Are you saying I cut and pasted something?

 

I was replying to your comment above about new member poloaa008 not reading all the thread
and then cut and pasting your original comments in as he has done recently in other 3rd Gen Forums

 

The thing is, if it works for what I need it for I really don't care, and if it works for other people who cares? There is also a reason why small cams are added from the factory, fuel economy, long life, but people still add huge cams in their cars. Also, most people dont want to spend a whole lot of money buying a relay, spending the time to wire it in, when it's just easier to do what I proposed. That's what hotrodding is all about, not going for whats practical, but for what's cool and works. If you want to talk factory installation go become a engineer for a car company. One big thing, YOU don't have to do it, I'm just giving the poster another option that will work just fine. Oh well, I'm not going to argue with you. Good day.

 

Your ignorance is really showing now.
The factory fan setup already has a relay in place;
the posts above simply document a means of controlling that fan relay manually , instead of your shade tree rewiring of the fan circuit

Is not actually ,yours is more expensive because you need much heavier wiring, a HD switch and a fuse
were as other method only requires a thin wire to a 3A switch,
the wire run inside the car is the same time wise and you don't need to connect to 12V fused supply

Not even the same argument.
Cams are a matter of choice; wiring doing things properly

Posts on here daily from new owners trying to work out and fix wiring done by Dodgy Bros previous owners who thought " it was cool"

 

False, your arguing the need of a relay, NOT grounding a wire with the current one in place. I was stating you don't really need one, for someone who just wants something simple and done. Much heavier wiring.... I guess 12 gauge is heavy wire... I was also stating my method is cheaper than putting in a whole new fan system not grounding the wire, and shade tree wiring? haha one power wire to a switch and back is not shade tree, as it was only needed to manually toggle the switch while still having it all controlled automatically. But it's okay, I understand your lack of maturity and necessity to try to seem like you're the best.

 

Read post # 5 where it first started
You are the one who stated a relay is not needed.....

And I am stating there is already a relay there can be wired for man fan control easier than your " reinvent the wheel " method

Is actually because you don't take high current loads on long wire runs through a HD switch inside;
as I said , there is a reason relays were invented


Lottsa talk from someone who said "I'm not going to argue with you.. "
Maturity starts to show when the insults start flowing

 

 

You insulted me first by belittling my way, even though it is an acceptable way to wire in the fan.But, this doesn't seem to be going anywhere because you don't fully understand what I posted.

 

Hey, sorry I went incognito for a few days. Been pretty busy. I recently just changed my plug wires and discovered that I have a broken switch. It's between the six and the eight cylinder. That's the TSU isn't it? Would it be beneficial to run a toggle switch and a low temp sensor, or would that be completely pointless?

 

You could run a toggle switch with out hacking up the wiring harness, and have it on stand by. If you splice into the green w/white stripe wire do it close to the relay.

 

Back to the original question.....

It makes the most sense to have the t-stat open before turning on the fan. Why turn on the fan if there is no real water flow through the radiator?

I run a 180F T-stat and a fan switch on at 200F, off at 185F.

 

Bump.

Just got the new fan switch and thermostat. Used hypertech 4028 and a 180 thermostat. Fan comes on like it should but the car is still overheating. Replaced the coolant sending unit above the water pump as well. Starting to think that my gauges are reading wrong. Did a 3 mile loop and my car got to 250, but I didn't have anything boiling over into the overflow. I am at a loss. Bad gauge reading, or maybe bad ecm?

 

Bump. Fixed my overheating issue. After installing hypertech 4028, my bird was still getting hot. I decided that it was time to buy the air dam. Put it on, and completely solved my overheating problem.

Note to self: Air dams are essential

 

Lol yes air dams are required on our cars or a thicker rad and one big fan :P

Anyways on my car Im not a fan of toggle switches..to me they just look tacky on a factory dash.No offense to anyone who uses them.But since I no longer have a/c in my car and I wanted manual control of my secondary fan,I wired the old a/c signal wire with a relay to the secondary fan for complete factory switch using the hvac controls.Beauty of this is also that it only works with the key on instead of me using a toggle switch hooked up to a heavy gauge wire and running more wires into the car.

Just another way to make a cleaner option if you dont have a/c in your car still.