A couple issues I have been trying to figure out,Not too sure if they are related but wouldnt suprise me.

#1- I have been trying to figure out this strange engine idle for a while now, it happends after the engine is fully warmed up, At stops in gear my Idle is 7000-7500 RPMS. sometimes the car will have a slight "surge/shake" feel and the RPM will slightly bounce. When braking to a complete stop or letting go of the brake from a stop with no acceleration. It will sometimes feel like the brake is being tapped really fast.

#2- Once in a while usually after the car has been warmed and I go to restart the car I will see the RMPs rise like normal then Drop and Hunt for a second.

Some things I checked:
Fuel Pressure- Holds at 11 psi
Vacume Hoses- SEEM good. replaced some old ones with holes.
Fuel Filter: REPLACED

Any input and advice will be helpful.

 

Sounds like an intermittent miss. Plug wires in good shape and not too close to exhaust?

 

Plug wires,cap, rotor, coil all fairly new about 1.5 years old, they are routed a good distance from the exaust. I can see one of the plugs on the white ceramic piece has a little brown tint to it not sure if this indicates a bad plug or not. But to be honest I have alway had the slight "shake" feel at stop signs since I owned the car (2 or 3 years) and I have kept tip top maintance. Could it be low combustion just from being OLD? how can I check for a miss? Ihave a thermal gun and was told I could check the headers?? not sure how true this is.

 

The plugs should be slightly tan colored. A compression test would be a good idea if you haven't done one in a while.
There's few different ways to check for a miss. A solid miss is a lot easier to find than an intermittent miss. Unless one of your header pipes is cold, the IR gun probably won't help much. I've measured 100 degs diff between header pipes on a good running eng.

Checking for a miss entails removing spark from each plug, one plug at a time and listening to the eng.
There's a few different methods:
You can remove a plug wire while eng is running, but you will probably get a good shock and it can be bad for the ign sys. (That spark is going to go somewhere)

You can stop eng, remove plug wire and install an old spark plug into the wire then lay it up on the intake touching metal, then restart eng.

The method I use involves an old ice pick with the metal shaft grounded via jumper wire to ground. I pierce the spark plug wire boot and take the energy from the plug. Some may say this is bad cause it can allow moisture to enter boot, but I've never had a problem.

If you know someone that has an eng analyzer, most of them have cyl cancel buttons that remove the spark to one cyl at a time.

What ever method you use, when you find the offending cyl, you will have a solid miss and no intermittent missing. Hope that makes sense.

Personally I would be looking for a vac leak. Be sure to plug the power brake booster hose and PCV hoses. Also try removing the PCV valve from one valve cover and the breather hose from the other valve cover, then using the palms of your hands plug both holes (this is best done with a cool eng), if you feel a vacuum building, you have an internal vac leak.

An EGR valve that doesn't seal completely when closed and also cause a rough idle.

 

That is some really good schooling right there. I need to do a compression check of my cylds. The car has always has this little shake but now for some reason my temp. is acting all crazy, it could be good for a week then start acting wierd again. I have an IR gun I tried to shoot the heads I get about 450 on average all the way across on both sides.Thanks for your help I am going to try your method when I get some time after this storm blows thu.