New long block has 3-windage studs, couldn't I just mark and drill holes in the factory baffled pan to allow clearence?

 

Yes I suppose you could hack it up and drill holes. You would probably be better served by getting the correct bolts, or the correct oil pan though.

 

Thanks for the reply, Yeah I'm all for not hacking things, but I do have 2-l98 pans. That's what I get for ordering a (ATK) engine, suppose to be OEM for 87 iroc but what they sent was a 880-vortec block with 217 heads and flat tops.. hmmm wonder if a l-31 truck pan would fit in the camaro, if so I'm sure I could go to junk yard and get pan/and tray.

 

Truck pan probably won't fit.

There's no harm in drilling the baffe; that's what I'd do, if I didn't have the actual RIGHT pan for a windage tray to begin with.

If you don't have the windage tray, you could just swap regular bolts into those places, as well.

 

I had on old 454 like that. Main studs with windage studs on the ends of them. The studs were too long and hit the pan. Since there was enough stud to hold the windage tray on, I just cut the excess off the stud to clear the pan.

When I got up to 540 CID, I stopped using windage trays and lifter valley screens. I want the oil back into the pan as fast as possible. I use a deep sump pan and an oil accumulator so I don't need a high oil level in the pan that the crank could whip around in.

 

drilling 3-holes in the baffled pan, that's what I figured just wanted to make sure. Thanks again for the input......blah blah.. bad thing is car's all (orig) 68-k miles and it spun a bearing,thats why I'm in this mess to start with.