so i picked up a vortec outta a 1998 truck the rod bearing was spun so the crank is junk no idea how many miles or anything i wanna build it up its a two bolt but whats a good cheap option? stock replacemant? with new cam and intake? does it need to be bored if it has some miles on it? some opinions would be nice as ive never built an engine before

thanks for the help!

 

Good cheap option? Check if the crank can be salvaged. That will cost $100 or so to be cut/polished. If you need a new crank the rotating assembly will cost $300 to be rebalanced.
New bearings, new rings, new oil pump, hone the cylinders, new timing gears/chain. That's your basic short block rebuild. I'd get the block tanked for the $60 or so that it costs.

Whatever cam you choose will be about $300, LS7 replacement lifters are like $130, figure $120 for push rods, $250-350 for roller lifters. You'll need new springs and probably some machining on the heads (or the costly $400 alternative springs/locks/retainers).

My short block probably cost me less than $400. I just needed bearings and rings honestly but I took a few extra steps to avoid any issues (had the block tanked, had the crank polished, I honed the cylinders and put new freeze plugs in - I also bought file fit rings to make up for .0002" in the largest over sized cylinder which was totally unnecessary).

 

How about a 383 from eagle? Or a rotating assembly as ill need a couple new rod's and make a 377 without boring? Anyone know if a good setup?

 

SCAT instead of Eagle. I've had issues with Eagle rotating assemblies needing more machine work. Had good luck with my brother's SCAT assembly.

 

Would it be better to get it bored and go 383 or hone and go 377?

 

Depends on what your cylinder walls look like and measure out to. Either way you want new pistons but if you can get away without spending the extra cash on having it bored and are on as cheap as a budget as possible; your question has an obvious answer.

 

Go all the way
4.00" bore 3 .750" stroke pistons can be hard to come by compared to the more common 4.030" pistons

 

Have the machine shop tell you how far it needs to go. If you leave it out of round and just hone it to be cheap (you're buying new pistons anyway so this is kidn of stupid, IMO) your ring seal wont be as good. It leaves power and long term viability on the table.

 

Not saying you should do this but I did mine on the super cheap and this is what I did.

I also have a 98 vortec out of a truck and it too wiped out the rod bearings. The rods were OK but the crank was waisted. I simply bought a new SCAT replacement crank and dropped it in. I installed new bearings and rings and that is it. But I will say my block only had 30k on the clock so the cylinder walls were mint and only needed a minor de-glazing (also known as honing) for the new rings.

The motor now has over 5k since the rebuild and it runs as smooth as can be. Not a hint of vibration throughout the entire RPM range. I'm sure it isn't perfect but I'm also sure it is as good as or better than it was from the factory. And for my purpose it is good enough for me.

 

well i started thinking i have a spare 350 layin around i was wondering if i could take the rods out and put arp studs in them and use them and buy a crank and find new pistons that will work anyone know what pistons will work with stock rods? there outta 3970010 block

 

Anyone?

 

If you change rod bolts, you have to have the rods "reconditioned", because that distorts them.

Not worth doing that to stock rods. At one time, that was all there was; now, you can buy whole BETTER aftermarket rods, with the bolts ALREADY installed, for less money than you can dink with a bunch of crappy stockers for.

As far as pistons, I'm not sure I understand what you're asking... did I correctly see, are you asking what pistons will work with stock rods? Really?

 

As far as clearance goes with the stock rods for the extra stroke

 

if i remember correctly you are going to have to notch out the block for the rod swing but you have to be careful to not go into the water passageways. ill try to find the 383 tech site i found a while back


well that wasnt hard took all of like 30 seconds lol

http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

 

The older rods would be a downgrade from the vortec rods, plus they would require more grinding on the pan rails for clearance. If you spun a rod bearing you'll probably have to have that rod resized or replace it. If you upgrade the rod bolts you'll have to resize all of the rods. You'll need pistons for whatever bore size you decide on, 3.75" stroke, and 5.7" rods. The clearance you have to worry about is on the big end of the rods, you'll have to do a trial assembly and check the clearance to the pan rails and camshaft. You really need a good and patient machinist to walk you through this.

 

all in all if you are really stuck on rebuilding this motor vs. just buying a running motor it would probably be a better choice for you to just stick with the usual 355 rebuild and have some fun

 

well i got the 383 crank on its way anyhow so next is rods is it just as cheap to buy new rods? if so what size should i go with? 5.7 or 6?