I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
09-25-2012, 12:23 AM
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I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Alright guys here's the deal, I'm still in parts gathering mode now so not quite ready to post my build thread but its about time I decide which engine route i'm going to take......
Thee car: '89 Iroc, 5.0, Auto, T-Top, 2.77 rear. Bought for $1500
Limitations
Feedback is much appreciated, but being biased toward the 400 any reason why I shouldn't do it??? Something i'm missing, any budget killers??? THX!
Thee car: '89 Iroc, 5.0, Auto, T-Top, 2.77 rear. Bought for $1500
Limitations
$5,000 budget(or there abouts)
CA smog legal
Maintain original look(for the most part)
Plans: CA smog legal
Maintain original look(for the most part)
Freshen up the suspension with new or like new parts, paint, undercoat, replace where necessary with mostly stock eqpt except lowering springs, SFC's, PHB, etc.
Interior will be the last thing I do......clean up as budget allows
Exterior: Fresh bright red original paint - $1000 tops depending on who's painting, i'll buy a Sata if I have to...
Engine???
Here's where I need some help. remember i'm on a budget and needs to be CA smog legal. I've seen a smog legal 383 so 17 more cubes should be doable.....oh and I won't do a 383 b/c machine work will kill my budget and will render my 400 shortblock useless for a future project.
Dilemma: I have two long blocks: early 90's 350(roller provisions) and a early 70's 400, both 2 bolt mains(but 2 bolts will be plenty strong for my goal)
Goal, 300-350 hp/tq or there abouts, i don't want to break the tranny or 9 bolt rear or beef it up either, more $ that I don't have.
350: Needs to be rebuilt. If used will be full roller with mild cam, very streetable and smogable with ported and polished where possible, headers, high flo cat but stock runners and base until a good deal comes around.
400: Needs to be honed but i'm sure the rotating assembly is in really good shape. Had 50K when pulled but its been sitting with heads off for about 6 yrs. Cons: From what i've read, starter bolt will need to be drilled/tapped, major reprogramming needed, can't use roller cam unless block is machined which is more$ and i might have to grind down some rods depending on cam selection for clearance. Heads will be from the above 350 with dished or flat pistons depending on board recommendations.
Why the 400??? Why not. I don't like that I can't use a roller cam and i've never been able to properly seal a 2 piece gasket but I loved that 400 when it was running. The exhaust pulses were like a quartet or like an octet should I say, and enough torque to get that old pickup rolling with no problem so I can't imagine what i'tll do in a 3300 lb iroc. Well first break my 700R4 then the 9 bolt but i'm not one to stand on throttles or run 1/4's either, just a stoplight sleeper and cruiser will suffice for me. Again, why the 400. Because it seems that the 400 will help me reach my hypothetical HP/Tq #'s without losing its manners, i mean no replacement displacement right?
So fellas here's the point, i'm being vague on cam specs, valve sizes, etc b/c the funds are limited to where i'm buying the next best deal in the classifieds and i'm going to work with what I have. Two really good cores, 2 spare 9 bolts(impulse buys and rear disk conversion - both 2.77), and a decent shifting 700. Bottom line, 350 with 305 heads or 400 with 350 heads, everything else being equal(except for obvious fuel pump/FPR/injectors)???Interior will be the last thing I do......clean up as budget allows
Exterior: Fresh bright red original paint - $1000 tops depending on who's painting, i'll buy a Sata if I have to...
Engine???
Here's where I need some help. remember i'm on a budget and needs to be CA smog legal. I've seen a smog legal 383 so 17 more cubes should be doable.....oh and I won't do a 383 b/c machine work will kill my budget and will render my 400 shortblock useless for a future project.
Dilemma: I have two long blocks: early 90's 350(roller provisions) and a early 70's 400, both 2 bolt mains(but 2 bolts will be plenty strong for my goal)
Goal, 300-350 hp/tq or there abouts, i don't want to break the tranny or 9 bolt rear or beef it up either, more $ that I don't have.
350: Needs to be rebuilt. If used will be full roller with mild cam, very streetable and smogable with ported and polished where possible, headers, high flo cat but stock runners and base until a good deal comes around.
400: Needs to be honed but i'm sure the rotating assembly is in really good shape. Had 50K when pulled but its been sitting with heads off for about 6 yrs. Cons: From what i've read, starter bolt will need to be drilled/tapped, major reprogramming needed, can't use roller cam unless block is machined which is more$ and i might have to grind down some rods depending on cam selection for clearance. Heads will be from the above 350 with dished or flat pistons depending on board recommendations.
Why the 400??? Why not. I don't like that I can't use a roller cam and i've never been able to properly seal a 2 piece gasket but I loved that 400 when it was running. The exhaust pulses were like a quartet or like an octet should I say, and enough torque to get that old pickup rolling with no problem so I can't imagine what i'tll do in a 3300 lb iroc. Well first break my 700R4 then the 9 bolt but i'm not one to stand on throttles or run 1/4's either, just a stoplight sleeper and cruiser will suffice for me. Again, why the 400. Because it seems that the 400 will help me reach my hypothetical HP/Tq #'s without losing its manners, i mean no replacement displacement right?
Feedback is much appreciated, but being biased toward the 400 any reason why I shouldn't do it??? Something i'm missing, any budget killers??? THX!
09-25-2012, 04:03 AM
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
383 is based on a 4.00" bore 350 block with a stroker crank
400 has 4.125" bore and already has the same stroke (3.750") crank as what makes a 383
09-25-2012, 04:09 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-72330LUN/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91160/
You have to buy a new roller cam anyway so you just get a small base circle cam (for the rod clearance )
09-25-2012, 09:20 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Ya got that....was referring to just that but thx for the info anyway; re: the 383 build.
+1 for the 400. Wasn't aware of the retrofit kits.....thx vetteoz
+1 for the 400. Wasn't aware of the retrofit kits.....thx vetteoz
Last edited by jac113; 09-25-2012 at 09:22 AM. Reason: clarity
09-25-2012, 09:51 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
You may already know this, but just in case... Remember with the retro kits you'll have to be sure to get a retrofit cam too, and then come up with a way to control camshaft endplay. Neither of which are anywhere near the cost of those lifters, though.
The factory roller cams have a step machined into the snout of the cam, and a retainer is bolted over the front of the cam into bosses cast into the roller factory blocks. Because of this, the bolts for the timing chain gears are closer together.
For your setup, you will need to get a retrofit roller cam. That step in the cam snout is the only major difference, but it allows you to use a standard non-roller cam timing chain.
http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...neparts016.jpg
So just be aware, that DOES matter. The retro roller cams seem to be $20 more than regular ones. The main drawback is that you cant just get a cheap factory roller cam like an LT4 hotcam. You have to pay for an aftermarket roller cam.
Then you need to get a thrust button to control cam endplay. The nylon ones are good because you just trim them to fit. But if you know the size you need, you can get one of those fancy ones. I have no idea which is better.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-90001/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-202/
Then you need a roller cam timing cover that can take the beating from the thrust button hitting on it. Or you can use a normal timing cover and fabricate some sort of reinforcement to go over the top of it. Or you can get one of those special water pumps that has a set screw on it that tightens against the front of the timing cover.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-221/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8811/?rtype=10
(notice the threaded hole for the stud that would go through and reinforce the front of a stock timing cover)
Also, note you can theoretically just put some studs/nuts into your normal water pump and fabricate your own thrust button reinforcing plate on the back of yours. Ive seen it done, Im sure it works beautifully. The whole endplay thing is a concern, but some people dont have any symptoms of there being any fore/aft force on the cam. Some people have their stock style flimsy timing covers dented. Just one of those things that depends on the combo, not always a concern, but you should cover your bases to be safe.
The factory roller cams have a step machined into the snout of the cam, and a retainer is bolted over the front of the cam into bosses cast into the roller factory blocks. Because of this, the bolts for the timing chain gears are closer together.
For your setup, you will need to get a retrofit roller cam. That step in the cam snout is the only major difference, but it allows you to use a standard non-roller cam timing chain.
http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...neparts016.jpg
So just be aware, that DOES matter. The retro roller cams seem to be $20 more than regular ones. The main drawback is that you cant just get a cheap factory roller cam like an LT4 hotcam. You have to pay for an aftermarket roller cam.
Then you need to get a thrust button to control cam endplay. The nylon ones are good because you just trim them to fit. But if you know the size you need, you can get one of those fancy ones. I have no idea which is better.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-90001/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-202/
Then you need a roller cam timing cover that can take the beating from the thrust button hitting on it. Or you can use a normal timing cover and fabricate some sort of reinforcement to go over the top of it. Or you can get one of those special water pumps that has a set screw on it that tightens against the front of the timing cover.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-221/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8811/?rtype=10
(notice the threaded hole for the stud that would go through and reinforce the front of a stock timing cover)
Also, note you can theoretically just put some studs/nuts into your normal water pump and fabricate your own thrust button reinforcing plate on the back of yours. Ive seen it done, Im sure it works beautifully. The whole endplay thing is a concern, but some people dont have any symptoms of there being any fore/aft force on the cam. Some people have their stock style flimsy timing covers dented. Just one of those things that depends on the combo, not always a concern, but you should cover your bases to be safe.
09-25-2012, 10:21 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
In the case of a 383'ish 400 you run a 350 crank in the 400 block with spacer bearings......................
09-25-2012, 10:39 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
While I worked at a Chevy engine plant mainly in the dyno rm when these 400's where being built we found because of the spacing of the bores,the poor steam hole cooling,the bores did move around alot and to properly machine them for ring sealing you must use torque plates. The intend for these 400's is and wasn't for any high performance use. They where loaded with emissions because they are in terms of that a very dirty engine even through they are based on low compression/short rods.The low compression/short rods was GM's attempt to push them through Calli testing and all the emission equipment that came on them. The OEM head chamber size is also for the same reason. The issues with the 400's is one of the reasons why the high performance industry developed the stroker 350 to 383. The 350's are overall a better block.
I don't know how you would get any kind of performance 400 through Calli emission testing.................
I don't know how you would get any kind of performance 400 through Calli emission testing.................
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09-25-2012, 12:33 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
[QUOTE=InfernalVortex;5386955]You may already know this, but just in case... Remember with the retro kits you'll have to be sure to get a retrofit cam too, and then come up with a way to control camshaft endplay. Neither of which are anywhere near the cost of those lifters, though.
The factory roller cams have a step machined into the snout of the cam, and a retainer is bolted over the front of the cam into bosses cast into the roller factory blocks. Because of this, the bolts for the timing chain gears are closer together.[end quote]
Excellent write up on cam play. I've read about it but hadn't figured out a solution so much appreciated. Helps compile my parts list. Cam selection will be a roller, small base circle with specs that allow for mild performance with smooth idle, response and driveability to match stock stall converter and 2.77 gears. I know that's limiting the build but other projects are in line.
Thanks again!
The factory roller cams have a step machined into the snout of the cam, and a retainer is bolted over the front of the cam into bosses cast into the roller factory blocks. Because of this, the bolts for the timing chain gears are closer together.[end quote]
Excellent write up on cam play. I've read about it but hadn't figured out a solution so much appreciated. Helps compile my parts list. Cam selection will be a roller, small base circle with specs that allow for mild performance with smooth idle, response and driveability to match stock stall converter and 2.77 gears. I know that's limiting the build but other projects are in line.
Thanks again!
09-25-2012, 12:40 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Can anyone else chime in on smogging the 400?
Last edited by jac113; 09-25-2012 at 12:42 PM. Reason: darn spell check
09-25-2012, 02:44 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
While I worked at a Chevy engine plant mainly in the dyno rm when these 400's where being built we found because of the spacing of the bores,the poor steam hole cooling,the bores did move around alot and to properly machine them for ring sealing you must use torque plates. The intend for these 400's is and wasn't for any high performance use. They where loaded with emissions because they are in terms of that a very dirty engine even through they are based on low compression/short rods.The low compression/short rods was GM's attempt to push them through Calli testing and all the emission equipment that came on them. The OEM head chamber size is also for the same reason. The issues with the 400's is one of the reasons why the high performance industry developed the stroker 350 to 383. The 350's are overall a better block.
I don't know how you would get any kind of performance 400 through Calli emission testing.................
I don't know how you would get any kind of performance 400 through Calli emission testing.................
09-25-2012, 03:03 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Use the 400, there is no replacement for displacement and I have two 400's in my street cars and both work very well. They cost more to build but it is worth it.
The reason 383 are built more then 400 is the 350 has a 10 to 1 production advantage and there are more 350 to find.
The reason 383 are built more then 400 is the 350 has a 10 to 1 production advantage and there are more 350 to find.
09-25-2012, 03:30 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
I'm with you kuski, only thing is I need to smog this bad boy to be legit......and I do have have to be legit if you know what I mean.
09-25-2012, 04:26 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
I have a nice lil 400 in my car but noo way will mine pass smog.. IF done properly It shouldn't be to hard at all to get one to pass. It's been done a long time ago and you'll have to make some calls to get the info you need.
The next 5.7 I build is getting a 400+ stroker kit in the stock 350 block. for stealth reasons ;-)
The next 5.7 I build is getting a 400+ stroker kit in the stock 350 block. for stealth reasons ;-)
Last edited by TTOP350; 09-25-2012 at 04:32 PM.
09-25-2012, 04:37 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Ok guys enough messing around....I figured it out!
I'm going to build up the 400 and replace it before the next puff test comes around.....7/2014 I think. Gives me plenty time to enjoy it, figure out a smog solution or build a smoggable 350. Worse case, the 400 goes back in the truck and hopefully with speed density TPI.
That being said, any recommendations on cam for stock stall and highway gears??? Want to take advantage of the cubes ;-).
Thanks for all the feedback!
I'm going to build up the 400 and replace it before the next puff test comes around.....7/2014 I think. Gives me plenty time to enjoy it, figure out a smog solution or build a smoggable 350. Worse case, the 400 goes back in the truck and hopefully with speed density TPI.
That being said, any recommendations on cam for stock stall and highway gears??? Want to take advantage of the cubes ;-).
Thanks for all the feedback!
09-25-2012, 06:40 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C30
Obviously still need to use a roller cam timing set with a OEM style roller cam
09-25-2012, 06:47 PM
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Car: 82 Z28
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
a big bore / short stroke engine that works well at revs vs a 383 that is more bottom end torque orientated because of it's (relatively ) small bore / long stroke ratio
09-25-2012, 08:05 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Solved
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C30
Obviously still need to use a roller cam timing set with a OEM style roller cam
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C30
Obviously still need to use a roller cam timing set with a OEM style roller cam
Anyway, we can toss the 383 idea out the window. I'm not going to run the engine hard enough or track it enough to notice the difference thus making the machining costs for the 383 a moot point. I'm going to work with what I got and right now its a 400 and 350. The 400 is up first then if it doesn't make the emissions cut in goes the 350.
So is that LT4 cam something that's well mannered? Will it allow more air draw that what the early 90's 350 heads(from 1500 p/u) can flow, even in deburred, ported form?
thx!
09-25-2012, 09:03 PM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Been waiting for a time to use this. We have had numinous 400's in a number of different Super Gas cars when we where still running SBC's. Aside from my employment at the Chevy plant,some of what I am advising about has come from that.
The odd but very true factors in the high performance parts business is guys think what they have is the best,but they never know what they are missing.
We have tired of all the issues with the 400's and moved on to the 383's. Well then on to BBC's.
Oh yeah.I lived through all those early yrs of the 400's and the development of aftermarket stroker cranks for the 383. Although it is true the 400 engines are harder or more scarce to find,the fact of all those thing I listed and the 350's being a more sound foundation and finally the ease of the later 350's with roller cams made the 400's what they are.Obsolete.
The odd but very true factors in the high performance parts business is guys think what they have is the best,but they never know what they are missing.
We have tired of all the issues with the 400's and moved on to the 383's. Well then on to BBC's.
Oh yeah.I lived through all those early yrs of the 400's and the development of aftermarket stroker cranks for the 383. Although it is true the 400 engines are harder or more scarce to find,the fact of all those thing I listed and the 350's being a more sound foundation and finally the ease of the later 350's with roller cams made the 400's what they are.Obsolete.
09-25-2012, 10:48 PM
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09-26-2012, 12:24 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Hey guys, I don't about shooting darts or putting turbo on a LeSabre and Gary if you keep bashing my 400 you're gonna make me talk about your van.
but all jokes aside, i do appreciate your feedback and have much respect for the experience and knowledge you've gained over the years.
To sum me up, i'm a newbie at moddin' engines and thirdgen camaros to boot. In all this, i guess i've come to the realization that i don't need to be smog legal being that both engines would be built eventually. If this were my only project i'd salvage the 400 block for the crank and spend the extra dough to get that 383 purring right but its not. This 89 of mine is supposed to be a quick flip so I can get to my first love(of third gens)....my '92 B4C.
Being that i'm going to ultimately build both engines i figured i'd do the 400 first, not to race and not to show off but probably more so for some weird attachment that I have to it. There's something about that extra 1/2" throw that got me hooked. Yeah it'll wind up slow and run hot on the inside bores but nothing that a 3 core radiator and lower temp fan switch can't handle.....and for stop light runs next to most modern cars i'm sure it'll hold up just fine.
Now that i've gotten my dissertation out of the way i'm going to start pricing the 400 build. Mild cam(hopefully roller but the $400 ilfter set is a tough pill to swallow) and mildly ported heads, base and plenum until I can afford some better flowing parts. Adj. FPR, better fuel pump, custom prom, 350 knock sensor and I should be displacing 400 cubic inches of California smog 4 revolutions at a time.
Will keep y'all posted with a build thread when I gather enough parts to start the swap-mild resto.
thanks!
but all jokes aside, i do appreciate your feedback and have much respect for the experience and knowledge you've gained over the years.
To sum me up, i'm a newbie at moddin' engines and thirdgen camaros to boot. In all this, i guess i've come to the realization that i don't need to be smog legal being that both engines would be built eventually. If this were my only project i'd salvage the 400 block for the crank and spend the extra dough to get that 383 purring right but its not. This 89 of mine is supposed to be a quick flip so I can get to my first love(of third gens)....my '92 B4C.
Being that i'm going to ultimately build both engines i figured i'd do the 400 first, not to race and not to show off but probably more so for some weird attachment that I have to it. There's something about that extra 1/2" throw that got me hooked. Yeah it'll wind up slow and run hot on the inside bores but nothing that a 3 core radiator and lower temp fan switch can't handle.....and for stop light runs next to most modern cars i'm sure it'll hold up just fine.
Now that i've gotten my dissertation out of the way i'm going to start pricing the 400 build. Mild cam(hopefully roller but the $400 ilfter set is a tough pill to swallow) and mildly ported heads, base and plenum until I can afford some better flowing parts. Adj. FPR, better fuel pump, custom prom, 350 knock sensor and I should be displacing 400 cubic inches of California smog 4 revolutions at a time.
Will keep y'all posted with a build thread when I gather enough parts to start the swap-mild resto.
thanks!
09-26-2012, 03:38 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
The 400 in my car idles at 550rpm, spins right up to 7,500rpm, doesn't over heat at all and I'm runing a stock rad...
10-24-2012, 06:02 PM
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Transmission: 700R4
Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Now that i've gotten my dissertation out of the way i'm going to start pricing the 400 build. Mild cam(hopefully roller but the $400 ilfter set is a tough pill to swallow) and mildly ported heads, base and plenum until I can afford some better flowing parts. Adj. FPR, better fuel pump, custom prom, 350 knock sensor and I should be displacing 400 cubic inches of California smog 4 revolutions at a time.
Looking to do a 400 build myself, very similar it appears. Mild 400 buill for a 4X4, so 375/425? Want cecent power, ability to easily pass on the highway and torque for the desert with a 700R4 GM 10bolt and 3:73s
Will be replaceing a L98 TPI. Not sure if I will keep the TPI, motor wont be "built" so TPI w/larger injectors adn 52mm tb should suffice? Still looking into that.
Question for jac113 is; what heads are you planning on using? Ive heard the alum L98 heads are a good option, but trying to stay within a bidget are the iron L98s just as good, mild porting and rebuild expected? Also read that the oe 400 heads #333882 are actually the "best flowing of the early iron heads"
10-25-2012, 10:03 PM
#24
Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Question for jac113 is; what heads are you planning on using? Ive heard the alum L98 heads are a good option, but trying to stay within a bidget are the iron L98s just as good, mild porting and rebuild expected? Also read that the oe 400 heads #333882 are actually the "best flowing of the early iron heads"
Iron L98 heads (083) are waaaaay too high compression for a 383, much less a 400, considering that tehy're iron heads.
You need something with large chambers unless you want to build one with some dished pistons. 882s are terrible but at least they wont detonate all over the place. Even the best factory heads are downright awful compared to entry level aftermarket heads that can be had for less than $1k a set. Something like 882s will limit you to 250, MAAAAYBE 300 crank horsepower. You'd be better off building a roller cam 350 with Vortecs than an 882-headed 400.
Also, hitting those power numbers is tricky with the TPI since they're so RPM limited, but it can be done if you do it just right. You'd have to rely on a roller cam. For a 4x4 truck you want something with some torque, so any kind of roller cam big enough to hit those power levels is gonna severely limit your low end torque. With some nice aftermarket heads it could be done, though.
10-25-2012, 10:20 PM
#25
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Car: 1986 K5 Blazer
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Transmission: 700R4
Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Any better off just doing a 383? Just something about the 400 drawing me to it. I know a 383 would be a cheaper over all build.
TPI more compatable than with the 400? Better off to just scrap it?
I know we're not really talking apples to apples when comparing Camaro to 1/2T K5. I wouldnt say Im trying to be cheap as much as I am looking to be cost effective.
TPI more compatable than with the 400? Better off to just scrap it?
I know we're not really talking apples to apples when comparing Camaro to 1/2T K5. I wouldnt say Im trying to be cheap as much as I am looking to be cost effective.
10-27-2012, 07:12 PM
#26
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
Hey Thread Jackin' TPI Blazer,
I'd definitely wouldn't scrap the block. There's plenty potential there to be had. There's no replacement for displacement and anything you can do to the 350 can be done to the 400 with the exception of the roller stuff unless you source specific parts as mentioned above.
As for me, I was going to use the stock heads off of the 350 after rebuillding and experimenting with some port matching, bowl and runner cleaning. I should be getting my grinding stones within a week from now so will get to it next week(hopefully). Also, i'll be building the 350 first and leaving that in the IROC. With the budget build i forgot i'll have to get a custom tune for the 400 and considering how long its taking for the project to get started i might as well do the 350 1st being that is "smoggable" as a 305 and the 305 chip will "presumably" run the 350 without mods.
Anyway, good luck with you're project and keep us posted with it, especially if you go with 400. I guess there's something about that extra 1/2" throw that makes the exhaust notes music to thine ears.
I'd definitely wouldn't scrap the block. There's plenty potential there to be had. There's no replacement for displacement and anything you can do to the 350 can be done to the 400 with the exception of the roller stuff unless you source specific parts as mentioned above.
As for me, I was going to use the stock heads off of the 350 after rebuillding and experimenting with some port matching, bowl and runner cleaning. I should be getting my grinding stones within a week from now so will get to it next week(hopefully). Also, i'll be building the 350 first and leaving that in the IROC. With the budget build i forgot i'll have to get a custom tune for the 400 and considering how long its taking for the project to get started i might as well do the 350 1st being that is "smoggable" as a 305 and the 305 chip will "presumably" run the 350 without mods.
Anyway, good luck with you're project and keep us posted with it, especially if you go with 400. I guess there's something about that extra 1/2" throw that makes the exhaust notes music to thine ears.
10-28-2012, 11:06 AM
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Re: I'm going to go with a 400......I think?
You can get the 400 to pass smog
Use a smallish cam in the low-mid 2teens on the intake
There are some 4x4/towing cams that work good
You want minimal overlap stay away from tight lobe centered cams
port the heads best you can and live with them til you get something better. The 400 will choke them anyway but still..that large bore can demand some air
If the bores are rusted youre going to have to machine it anyway.
Even stock brand new the bores didnt seal all that well so you got what you got.
You may wanna internally balance it if the large balancer is an issue with clearance
If youre just going to toss it together with used stuff half tempted to tell you to use a flat tappet although we know why most the time its not recommended
The stock TPI is going to kill the already restricted breathing.
If you can get your hands on a superram youll have a very strong ca legal motor even with a puny cam. TPI is a waste.
Use a smallish cam in the low-mid 2teens on the intake
There are some 4x4/towing cams that work good
You want minimal overlap stay away from tight lobe centered cams
port the heads best you can and live with them til you get something better. The 400 will choke them anyway but still..that large bore can demand some air
If the bores are rusted youre going to have to machine it anyway.
Even stock brand new the bores didnt seal all that well so you got what you got.
You may wanna internally balance it if the large balancer is an issue with clearance
If youre just going to toss it together with used stuff half tempted to tell you to use a flat tappet although we know why most the time its not recommended
The stock TPI is going to kill the already restricted breathing.
If you can get your hands on a superram youll have a very strong ca legal motor even with a puny cam. TPI is a waste.
Last edited by cuisinartvette; 10-28-2012 at 11:18 AM.
