hey fellas and ladies gotta quest. I have a 357 carbd vortec in a 89 rs with shortie hooker headers. what is the drawback of me running the car long term to breakin the cam and circulate the antifreeze and oil. not to mention tune and adjust idle and carb. would running the car with the shorti headers cause a possible burnt valve due to the fact that the exhaust is far enough away from the heads and motor?

i need to take the car to the muffler shop but after the install they will need to start the engine to test the work. could someone please help. this is my first solo rebuild and its taken awhile b/c of working and a ton of other stuff getting in the way but I don't want to scru it up.

 

The whole "burnt valve" thing is one of those myths that JUST WON'T DIE.

Nobody that I know has EVER seen that happen; not even ONE, not even ONCE.Not sure how it got started but whoever started it is probably still laying in his grave laughing at all the people that have got sucked in by it.

Ever been to a race track? Ever pay attention to the exh systems on those cars?

A more pressing issue would be the exhaust coming out of the headers and burning up whatever they're pointed at.

All the same, I wouldn't do it that way. I'd buy the best Y-pipe the header mfr makes to go with their headers, and a good cat & cat-back system. and just bolt it all up, BEFORE hitting the key the first time. That way, you can actually HEAR what's going on... like when adjusting the valves, listening for rod knocks, and so on. Prolly cost less than a "custom" system anyway, and CERTAINLY would fit better.

 

Thx, git a y pipe ok I'll check on the price of one that fits thx

 

headers are from summit racing and are hooker headers 2460hkr and going with 2.5in pipes from collectors who carries a reasonably priced y-pipe? thx

 

Which shorty hooker headers to you have? The hooker 2055's with Y-pipe run about $350 painted, $550ish coated. That's about the best deal you'll find.

 

painted 2460hkr's the ones painted black with 1 5/8in primaries but from my research it seems that the y-pipe might not fit correctly and may have to be modified anyway.

 

The burnt valve rumor kills me... I hear it all the time. I have given up on correcting people and just go with it.

 

10-4 yeah I'm a 33year old first timer and didnt know any better but thanx to you guys for straightening that out

 

Ok I tied off all the wires that were loose and capped off all the hot wires routed all the new spark plug wires and triple checked the wires and antifreeze and oil fired it up and seen sparks coming from my altenator from right where the red wire is close to the valve cover has anyone ever experienced this? No sparks anywhere else. I'm going to let the muffle/shop dial in the carb and timing.

 

sounds like the output wire that runs to the starter is loose (charging wire) Tighten up that nut and see what happens.

 

10-4 will try that tomorrow

 

I would also say to pull the alternator and have it checked, just in case something else went wrong internally.

 

Yea that's probably also a good idea. A wire might have came loose from the windings or something.

 

kool!

 

Yeah, I'd hate to see your alternator shorted out from the spark then cause more problems because it wasn't checked.

 

thx

 

Ok I have a big problem I checked the alt wire and yes it wasn't loose but it was barely on and hardly making contact but something else happened. I fired it up and let it run for about 30seconds and shut it off and antifreeze shot everywhere. I did it again this time with the radiator lid on and tight feeling like a rookie and when I turned it off and popped the radiator lid again antifreeze shot everywhere I did my serpentine routing the way in this thread https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-pictures.html

The wter pump is a drivework remanned from advance auto part number 58-134 I think. I mean it spewed water under pressure NOT hot! What in the world is the pump turning the wrong way, the t stat is new and motor not hot! Should I try taking the t stat out until it completetly circulates? Please help trying to git ready for muffler shop!

 

Burping?????????????????

 

hey fellas is a water pump for a 1970 impala a reverse flowing pump because i thought that I had to buy a pump to match the date of the block not the date of the car I might have the wrong pump. please help 3970010this is the block number. I pretty sure its either this or an air pocket.

 

I dont think the water pump is your problem. Check your plugs for antifreeze.

 

WP rotation direction goes with the belt system. Has nothing whatsoever to do with the block age in any manner way shape or form.

If you have V-belts, or the wide ribbed belt where the inside of the belt goes over the WP pulley, you need a "regular" (clockwise) pump, such as the 70 Impala.

If you have the serpentine ("snake-like") system where the back of the belt goes over the WP, you need a reverse (CCW) rotation pump, such as the one that would have come on your original 305.

Having the wrong one will DEFINITELY make the car overheat MERCILESSLY; on account of, if won't move any significant amount of water.

 

I don't see it getting hot enuff in 30 sec to blow a rad cap off... He has other problems.

 

Serpentine belt assembly! Is wat I have I'll duble chek the water pump part number when I git home from work.

 

As said pull your plugs and start doing a leakdown test. Do it with the radiator cap off.
Lets hope its not combustion gases doing this had it happen to me.
A real real clean plug is a strong hint

 

Agreed.X10

 

Thk u I got off work late so I will have to check tomorrow

 

this is your problem- you have the wrong water pump.
get one for your car, not the year of the block. this explains why water shoots out the radiator- the pump is pushing it out from the block to the lower hose on the radiator, which is on the same side as the cap. when you take the cap off, it will shoot out.
but you need to get the proper reverse rotation pump to match the pulleys or it will overheat and you will hurt something.

regarding air bubbles- the foolproof way to make sure there aren't any air bubbles is to take the heater hose off the intake when filling the radiator. engine off, of course. as soon as coolant comes out of the fitting, all the air is pushed out of the engine. just put the hose back on and keep filling the radiator while squeezing and holding down on the upper radiator hose until air bubbles stop coming out... your cooling system is now completely full and air free except for a very small amount of space in the heater hoses, and that gets filled up almost instantly once you start it.

 

A constant stream of bubbles could also mean a cracked head or blown head gasket.I'm just saying.

 

Ok I'm out here with the car I took rad.cap off and fired it up it threw the antifreeze bak out I shut it off and took t-stat out it did a little better but still threw the antifreeze out. Mman at advance auto told me there was no diff. In water pump for 70 impala or 89 camaro with serp assm. But I think he was wrong. I posted the thread that showed how to route the belt. Someone look at that and pleez tell me if I did it wrong. - checked plugs number 1,3 and they still had a little carbon them I will check the rest when headers cool off. - went bak to advance auto where I bought the water pump to double chek if the correct one they said they have no record of me buying one so will try to see cast numbers. On the pump thx for everybody help I beleve its something simple just need to find it. I will also drain rad. Completely and take off hoses and flush withwater the rad,t stat,and waterpump are new. Heater core was replaced 2eyars ago and heat worked fine b4 355 swap

 

Replacing the water pump by monday

 

what about the other plugs?

 

Will chek after church. Thx

 

Ok fellas I need a new theory. I took out all the plugs and they were fine I bought a new wp and opened the back to compare to the one I have on the car and they are the same the one I bought at NAPA part number is #43114 the one on the car I think was from advance auto and the number cast on the pump is 10105139 and the in store part number is (I think) #58-320

 

Ok here r the pics I mean correct me if I'm wrong but if either of these moved ccw then that means that the curved part of the impeller would be what (in theory) hit the water coming from the bottom radiator hose. Do yall agree? Is this correct? And the pump from napa dvertises to be rev. Rotation