Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

so couple weeks ago i swap fuel pressure regulator to a adjustable one test drive but it smelled really rich so try to adjust fuel pressure and gauge was bouncing around not steady so then engine wouldnt run or run then cut out now it just turns over but doesnt start long story short the diapfram rip and engine was flooded gas came out off throttle body i replaced diapfram with one from southbay so engine sat for a week but still engine will crank but wont start. didnt have time to check over the basics fuel spark..i assume its ok as i did a test drive and everything was fine and it ran untill diapfram ruptured

can flooded engine cause spark plugs to wet foul and cause this same condition ??? i also notice small amount of fuel coming out of map senso tube can thatdamage map sensor ?

i plan to pull plugs this week if i get of early enough to get enough sunlight outside

anybody had same issue

Thanks Zach

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

anybody ?

forgot to mention ive got fuel pressure at fuel rail so fuel pump is good
and im not running any codes or check engine lite comes on so i also assume map sensor is still good as it would throw a code if it failed

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

well for lunch break i verified i have spark at spark plug which leads me to another question i see a spark but i dont know if its strong or weak ?

and when trying to run code i try to check but no engine light blinking not even when you turn ignition switch on with out running a code i change light buld to see if that was the issue and nothing

scoflaw

iTrader: (2)

A fuel issue won't set a code. Not sure about your ruptured diaphram, or what you think might be a weak spark, but I would suggest backing up a couple of steps, put your old regulator back on, get it running, and then proceed.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

put in a ripped diaphragm why don'y you just pull out all the plugs and fill the cylinders with fuel. Now That the diaphragm is replaced set the afpr so the screw has no pressure on the diaphragm. Sounds like the plugs go so fuel fouled you can't get a good spark under cylinder pressure or the map gat damaged.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

i mean run a code for a faulty map sensor i know fuel issue wouldnt set a code but electrically "voltage wise " with fuel pump, injectors, etc can set off a code

for weak spark when testing spark at the spark plug out of the cylinder when you ground it to the chassie

and it was running when i had adjustable fuel pressure regulator and not the stock one old diagfram was old rotted and ruptured in several places so fuelpressure regulator had nothing to do with it running there exactly the same just one is adjustable the other isnt so i doubt thats the problem

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

i should of replaced it when i seen the condition of the diapfram
dumb decision on my part...frustration and being unpatient = Blonde Moments

yea thats what it sounds like more and more fuel fouled plugs hopefully
i will clean or replace plugs and map as i have free time this week as im only doing what i can with the little off time i have now

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

clean up the center and ground electrode man thats alot of fuel soot.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

yea i know lol i was expecting that tho so thank god no surprises lol i dont like those im going to call it a day tho flashlight one hand and wrench in the other it was dark when i got home and its kinda chilly outside

also is there anything i can spray inside spark plug holes to clean up chamber i was thinking seafoam or b12 chemtool which ever is at the auto store ?

edit: like you said in pm i crank engine with gas pedal to the floor after i removed spark plug it just seem the right thing to do

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I would just replace the plugs if your tight on funds clean them. yo can disconnect the coil wires the grey connector with pink wire hold your foot on the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over for a while to blow out some of the fuel in the cylinders. You might want to check your oil level out may have washed down the cylinder fairly good you dont want the gas to thin out your oil or blow off your valve covers

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

i didnt now about disconnecting the coil ill do it again... yea oil change would be very high piority its do for one any ways

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

so i put new spark plugs and replace the map sensor still same issue ...so i got a can of starter fluid and sprayed into intake it started then cut out so i have to figure out where in the fuel system im getting the issue

Really.. a ruptured diapfram puts me thru this freaking really OMG

what should fuel pressure should read when cranking or starting it reads around 30psi i believe fuel pressure vaccum is still connected so i assume its atleast 10-15psi higher at WOT conditions i would check with vacuum off but engine doesnt run so i dont think it would be accurate... what should it be ?

and sense im seeing pressure at fuel rail i can rule out bad fuel pump ?

so im left with injectors issues eletrical or mechanical

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

depending on what pump you have during the 2 second prime you may see 50psi and a drop down from there to 38. Running with the vacuum line off the fuel pressure will be 38psi running with the vacuum line on it will be 45psi.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

ok im confused now as when i took of vacuum fuel pressure was reading higher not lower when you take off vacuum your simulating wot

when car was running good a month ago

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

sorry put that back azz words im tiered

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

ok lol

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

so i am getting power to injectors i will get a noid light at autostore to check pulse as the test light didnt work its raing today pretty bad in san diego so i dont think im going to do it today unless weather clears up a bit

fuel pressure at fuel rails is 30psi when trying to crank it should be around 47psi (i will double check psi with just key on position which is the correct way instead of cranking the engine)
replaced damage battery
injectors are getting power
so i have spark it starts with starter fluid
put new spark plugs so far

so now two things i need to do is
use test light noid and pinch off return line to see if it starts

Another question is that if it was a VATS related issue engine wouldnt crank and i wouldnt get power to injetors correct ?...VATS is removed on prom

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Little update:
So running diagnostics on fuel pump circuit
-I get power to injectors
-no pulsating of light or 2 sec prime with noid light
-fuel pump turns on with key on
-jump fuel pump and fuel pump turns on "fuel pressure prime is 30 psi and it holds"
-disconnect fuel pump relay check 340 Orange wire with test light to ground "light turn on"
-connected test light from 340 orange to 450 black/white and "light didn't turn on"
-check with test light 340 orange wire at ECM "C16 and B1" also at E13 120 Grey in key of On/off,20 Amp Fuse,at fuel pump relay 340 Orange, also fuel pump relay Gray ignition On/off, and at fuel pump/oil pressure switch, I get power at all areas listed
-I do get 2 sec prime at green white wire that goes to fuel relay

So I think it's the OIL PRESSURE Switch is faulty stuck open

Would this cause my issues ? Anyways we will see lol

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Long story short I charged my battery and got it to start wasn't charge enough to crank lt1 starter

Then I only started by jumping starter wasn't working from the key ... I wasn't getting power to starter relay

So I change ignition switch getting power to starter relay FYI I just wired yellow and tan/white but still no starting from key

So I took apart the column and replace the ignition key switch

Freaking really it starts up with key problem solved
So I think I set a record for most problems at same time at least my personal experience
So take that you evil gremlins

BIG THANKS TO TUNEDPERFORMANC For the Brain storming lol