hydrolic144

iTrader: (2)

Reached but can't find anything that sticks or clicks. Basically wanting to know if I were to put a 3970010 bottom end under my 87 TPI top end, would I have any issues? Of course that's the run of the mill older 350 block, 2-piece rear main, driver side dipstick. As my 87 block was a roller, 1 piece rear main, etc. Can I just take the bottom end and slap the heads from the L98 on there, TPI setup and throw my distributor in and call it that, or is there more to it? Any help would be great as I could pick up a completely rebuilt one for cheap.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Nope. Doesn't make the slightest difference.

You'll need a different flex plate; your existing oil dipstick won't work; and of course you'll have to run a flat-tappet cam, or a "retrofit" roller.

Other than that, direct bolt-up.

hydrolic144

iTrader: (2)

You are the man. Luckily this is a complete engine, basically drop in, and comes with all that.

Now for the price he's asking. I listed a few pics and the description from his ad. He wants $600 firm for it as it sits. I think it's kinda high and from the intake up I wouldn't use anyhow, including the long tube headers. It's also just a basic rebuild with a low end torque cam, nothing special by any standards.

"Have a 350 4 bolt main,casting # 3970010 completly rebuilt. New main bearings,rod bearings,cam bearings,cam,lifters,oil pump,push rods,rings,fuel pump,water pump,starter. Rebuilt GM pointless dist.,GM aluminum intake 202 heads..Built this engine for my K5,but would like to install a 5.3 Vortex"

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Longer pushrods for a start. Also a different flexplate if I remember correctly. As far as I know, most aftermarket flexplates come with a dual bolt pattern, and they're fairly cheap. I was told driver side dipstick won't work with stock exhaust manifolds, if you still have them. Don't forget new lifters, obviously the cam, and springs to match. Be sure to measure deck clearance and get the appropriate head gasket thickness.

I'm doing the same thing right now (305 Roller -> 350 Flat Tappet), it's a can of worms, honestly. For all that work, you may aswell go aftermarket heads too since 083 heads won't do much for performance. And you'll be using a different cam, why not get a higher performance grind while you're at it? Then you'll see TPI choking the heads and cam, so you'll want to do portwork and/or aftermarket runners/base. At that point, the extra power from a roller setup will be well worth the extra money spent on a roller block, cam, and lifters.

I guess the moral of the story is, expect to spend a fair bit of change on it. I'm only using mine because I got the motor free, it's a low mile block, and it's 45 cubes bigger than the 305 I was running. I notice your details say a 357 as of right now. What's the reasoning for changing, if you don't mind me asking?

zraffz

One thing you will have to watch out for depending on your heads and which TPI you run is the intake bolt pattern. I do not think their is a difference in runner positions between the heads and intake from the older style heads vs newer non vortecs but the bolt holes will have to be ovaled out to fit.

Damon

If you're reusing the original TPI heads it's a bolt-in with the above noted exceptions. If you have a driver's side block-mounted dipstick you'll need a flexible dipstick setup (Lokar) to clear stock exhaust manifolds. If you have headers a regular "hard tube" dipstick setup will fit just fine MOST OF THE TIME. Depends on the design of the headers.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

He mentioned using L98 heads, so the intake bolt pattern won't be a problem. That thought occurred to me aswell. Either way, slotting the 2 middle bolts on each side of the intake isn't a hard task at all.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Careful with the flexible dipstick. If the block has the stock "dipstick" guide next to the main cap then its ok. If not, the flexible one can move enough to allow the dipstick to get sucked into the rotating assembly, causing some technical difficulties, to say the least. This happened to someone on this board not too long ago using one of those. Im using the standard mr. gasket one with my DS dipstick. Bit of a reach with the master cylinder next to it but accessable none the less. Its one of those cut and try things. So far its worked with my various setups.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Its not a terrible deal, but if you're ditching the intake/carb/dizzy etc I would just hold out for a roller block. I would NEVER put another flat tappet block in my car. Our Gen I engines are already antiquated enough compared to modern ecnonomy car engines. Throw in the flat tappet cam and not only are you getting worse performance but worse reliability too. Your L98 will have WAY better heads than the "202" heads on that motor too. As it sits that motor is going to be terribly slow and be generally awful. The TPI top end will help, but if you're just paying for a shortblock you can do a LOT better than an old flat tappet block.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

I would imagine the only reason he wants $600 is because of the headers. The rest of that setup isn't anything special. If you're determined with this setup, ask if he'll sell it without the headers. You could probably get it for $200+$250, and that's not bad considering new bearings, lifters, and pushrods.

I would suggest finding a junkyard roller block. It may need rebuilt, it may not. Either way, that's the direction I would've taken if I didn't get an absolutely free low mile block.

sorrys70

Im having the same dipstick problem! What is a "ds" dipstick that your speaking of ?

hydrolic144

iTrader: (2)

He's referring to driver side dipstick. Instead of passenger side it's on the driver side.

sorrys70

Oh... Yea... I knew that lol. was just hoping there was some sort of miracle fix for this. I bought a flex dipstick and had no luck installing it. It was short and still in the way