i bought one of this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150753991528...84.m1439.l2649
and the mounting plate it's so big it hits the header flanges on the Hooker 2460, doesn't even fit with the TC dust cover anybody had this problem with nini starters?

 

Use a 88-96 corvette gear reduction mini starter.

 

I have SLP shorties with 3" collectors, I use a Power Master Torque Master 9600, no clearance issues.

 

i do have a 168 tooth flywheel so i have to mount it further away from the block but still, it doesn't look like it will even reach the flywheel, I'll try to get some pick tomorrow see if someone have some ideas

 

I've used one like that with the stock 350 TPI and on my new 383 both with edelbrock shorties and long tube Hookers. I would guess it's the 168 plate.



I would imagine since you had to move the starter out for the larger flexplate the outside edge of the block out further than the normal 153 tooth setup. I believe the 153 uses the very outside bolt on the starter so yeah yours would stick out another bolt hole in distance.

They do make some starters that have the outside of the starter plate milled down already.



That way when you mount them they fit like this.



Maybe that could give you the extra space needed?

 

got it on
i had to cut a notch where it contacted the header flange
it works great but grinds when the engine starts looks like it stays engaged for a second too long

 

Sounds like you need to use a paperclip and set the depth. You must not have it shimmed correctly or your bolts are not snug.

 

It came with 2 shims and I used one, ill try anoyher one to see if it makes a difference

 

Are you using a remote starter solenoid/Relay? If you are you cant use a jumper wire between the 2 posts on the starter because your starter is a permanent magnet style. I just had the same problem, Mine would start but the starter stayed engaged for about 2 seconds after the engine fired. If you are using a remote solenoid then look at the 9th post down on this thread http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299402 I wired mine up like that yesterday and it took care of it, Again I used the 9th post down because the 8th post down didn't work for me.


Mark.

 

For a 153 tooth flywheel/flexplate, I run a stock 95 LT1 starter. For the 168 tooth, run a stock late-90s 4.3 starter. Theyre both small, and gear reduction, and will turn over an 11:1 big block with ease

 

No I use the stock setup, the main power for the starter comes streight from the battery

 

OK.

Mark.

 

I tried everything still grinds after start to the point of starting to damage the flywheel so i put the old starter in and all is good, I'll do more research but for now the old dinosaur works better

 

You shouldn't guess at placement of the shims. Usually if it's a replacement unit same style you can get away with installing shims in the same positions. If it's a new starter (different style) need to check the gap between the flexplate/flywheel and the starter gear with it extended. I normally use a paper clip as that's very close to the 1 mm gap setting most companies specify.