i have 195 afr cnc competition heads that i purchased 3 years ago and never used and want to use them for a radical 383.
planing on using new non race block with a
234/242 or 240/244 hydraulic roller camshaft (or bigger/maybee mechanical) for low maintenance and aggressive lift rates. the heads can take .630 with the rev they came with
have 1.6 crane gold race roller rockers.
id like to use a dual plane like performer rpm(so i don't have to mod the hood,sleeper)
carburated with 1 3/4 full length headers
700r4.com stage three tranny rebuild kit with 3 to 3500 or so stall
have a 4.10 moser 12 bold in rear.
would like to be around 500hp 500tq or more like some builds i see but not sure what internals (forged or cast crank mainly/forged or hyperutectic pistons/push pressed floating pistons???) to use. want to run in the mid to high range of the cams recommended compression range 10 to 11.5. im hoping the dynamic compression of that size cam will allow no detonation on 93. want to spin to 7000 with a bigger cam for more hp as long as car wasn't to umpleasent to drive but would cut back on the revs for a budget cast crank if i could still hit 500hp/tq numbers. t top car with inner and outer sub frame connectors adj panhard torque arm lower control with torque arm relocation cross member.
any suggestions on parts / power outputs / streetability that i can expect or suggestions on parts weather internals or distributor (mechanical or vacuum advance) carb (mechanical or vacuum) or converting to carburated from the 90 v6 fuel injection (drop the fuel pressure to 6-8 from stock 40ish psi) that came with my new project car.any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, even oil pan and pump (i used a 7qt kick out on my 91 to prevent starving because i love the corners, with a high volume pump) etc.

 

Whoa

 

If you want 7000 rpm I'd go with a cam in the 250 @ .050" duration range. Also pump gas these days sucks. I wouldn't trust it for your engine. I'd keep the compression under 10:1. Those good heads will easily make the power you want with lower compression ratio.

 

any suggestions about the internals forge vs cast crank?? or what type of lift?? i don't want valve float. should i cut the hood and go single plane for more top end??

 

.630 lift, forged pistons and crank. A cast iron crank will work though, or an eagle cast steel crank. I've been wanting to try one myself. Get a good computer balance job and sfi damper. Comp 954-16 springs.

 

have you run a hi po high compression with a eagle or scat crank. i been reading that alot of them are breaking under mild builds. i am defiantly going 1 piec rear main seal and internally balanced. whats the limit with those heads hp wise if i went all in with the 4.10's and appropriate converter ans still be able to street drive it?

 

how about idel vac with that cam and power breaks??

 

Parts break due to harmonic vibration. A good damper will help, along with not over reving. I'm running a stock cast crank at about 550 hp. Power brakes suck anyway. It's super easy to convert to manual.

 

what do you consider overreving?? 6000 6500 7000..

 

you make a good point they might be newbs and skimping on a good balance and harmonic and having bad experiances bc they budget skimped in the wrong place

 

what kind of pistons you runing hyperutectic??

 

I'm shifting at 7000 with stock pm rods and je pistons, all arp bolts.

 

wow thats why you have that 4.85 9inch

 

any windage tray and are the pistons floating or pressed i forget what the options are its been a while?

 

Here I was racing against a big block with spray

 

Stock oil pan no tray. The pistons are made for floating pins but I pressed them in.

 

that video was awesome.

 

You can do 500/500 without 7000 rpm

If you have to se that tach swing and want reliability long term do all forged bottom end. Forget about the hydraulic lifters, too. Got a nice SR cam that shoudl get you there with your 383 got 60 miles on it. Use a simple vac canister amd youll have a stock like brake pedal. Its 250/254@ 050.
Im using a 260/268@050 now and car stops like a dream. Its all in the valve timing events not the duration or lsa like you read about so much.
Youll want about 210/490lbs on the springs.

Imo you can get your power goals without going to all the trouble of a solid or all that rpm.

 

Also the 68 camaro was using a transbrake and I was foot braking. His car completely out classed mine but we were classed together because we had similar tires. It was fun though.

 

Comp 12-468-8 with forged flat top pistons with a good strong bottom and strong valvetrain.

 

how do you feel about dynamic comperssion loss with big valve overlap cams vs static compression and the available pump gas for choosing a compression ratio

 

thats the same advertised duartion i was looking at with a crane cam although it had less lift

 

This cam works well below 7000 rpm.

 

i hate to beat a dead horse but cams like those recommend a 10 to 11.5 cr ratio and cylinder pressure = power

 

I copy and pasted your question on google and found this. It a pretty complex question.
http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/CAM/CamSelection.htm

 

Compression ratio is only part of cylinder pressure. Cylinder filling is more important.

 

i know i have a formal hi performance edu. and im on the fence about it

 

like a good 195 will outperform a bad 215

 

theres so much dynamics with port velocity vs peak flow and on and on i wanted to see what is working for people who have more real world experiance

 

There's 1000s of possible combinations, conditions, and fuel it's difficult to say which one will knock on pump gas. I'm a fan of lower compression ratio. A good cam with good flowing heads makes good power. I built a 355, milled the block, ported patriot heads, 10.5:1, and a summit 1103 cam. It didn't feel any stronger than the stock 350 that I had. I think it was because of detonation. I wish I had put dished pistons in.

 

with the street tires and 4.10 gears i have and the power range based on cam intake head headers etc etc.. what king of stall speed should i be looking at getting is there a rule of thumb based om peak torq rpm?? or gears?? you make a good point about the compression and without a knock sensor run to a light in the car there is know way of knowing if and when detonation might be wreaking havoc on your internals

 

I usually add about 500 rpm to the cam's starting rpm range to determine stall. Maybe not the best way but it works.

 

so that cam you mentioned is 2,200 to 6,200 so you would do a 2,800 stall???

 

Yes. At least 2500. No more than 3000. With 4.10 3000 would work nicely.

 

would you lean tward the conservative side in a street driven vehical because constant slipage generates heat that kills autos or can a loose converter be kept under controll by a good fan powered trany cooler. i killed seveal 700r4's because of excessive heat beating around town even with shift kits to reduce clutch slipage when i was younger.

 

i eventualy went to a t56 which was a blast wish they weren't so dam exspensive

 

That depends on how you'll use the car. My 84 Z28 has a 4000 stall converter and I've driven on the street a few times. Tranny temp wasn't the determining factor as much as say getting a ticket or $11 a gallon for fuel, or engine temp. A tranny is a lot cheaper. Anyway I'd put a gauge on it if I drove it on the street more.

 

what intake do you recommend? im less woried about cops and not running race gas. i found a wrecked 4th gen so might go with the manual after all.

 

are there any good intake manifolds for fuel injection? swaps not new have you ever put a fuel rail on a carb intake?

 

Holley stealth ram or accel super ram. Nascar uses a carb intake with injectors bungs welded on. I built an intake for my Datsun I6 but not for a V8.

 

can i just buy the base and piret the fuel rails and ecu from 4th gen with reflashable computer im on a budget or might have to stay dule plane or low rise torquer 2 type single plane want to stay with stock hood height

 

i even see a lt conversion on jegs with distruibitor already drilled

 

How is your build going?

 

I have been laying off this forum,but when I see this kind of advise I have to chime in.7 grand on stock rods??. Dirty Harry had a saying"you feel lucky today"??. And then cast crank too??. Rods separate at the caps,but over the yrs we have also seen the small ends brake taking a rod well beyond it's material strength.And yes even in the middle.I mean I know you are saying this because you know better.Worst of it is guys on a "budget" don't have money to gamble.

Eagle is the worst of the lot and Scat cranks aren't far behind.Eagle' machine is horrible and some of it isn't useable at all with taper measurements and break or stress cracks right behind number 2 main journal.Either of them with external balance defeats what your saying about a good balance.The word term flip of "cast forged" is just plain out B.S.There is cast and there is forged.Period.Nothing magical about that.

Look,bottom ends short of stroking,does not do much to make power.What is does if money is spent wisely on selected parts is give you LONG TERM reliability and balancing,long life bearings.

The clock is ticking to"make your day". It won't be one of the better ones either!!!.

As always-your choice to take 50 yrs of drag racing advise or not.

 

Yes I'm using a stock cast iron crank stock L31 rods with je forged pistons, Yes I shift between 7000-7200 rpm through the 1/8 mile, the video of my black 85 camaro was filmed in 2008. The car is still running today without a single failure. If you're breaking parts don't automaticly blame the part. Maybe you should blame yourself.

 

I do think our race deal not having a failure since I think is was 1975 is a very good record with a boat load of 9.90 cars.What I am describing to you is our engine building business and customer cars over about the same time period.When it's broke and they built it,ya wanta guess who gets them back on that right path??.

Admit it,you know better.

 

Flat tops with 65cc chambers is about 11 to 1. Hyd roller about 240 deg at .050, could even go 236, and give it 4-6 deg spread for exhaust side. Ported dual plane will be done by 6500 but cam should help carry some power to 7k, if you need to go that high.
I second the forged crank recommendation.

Should be weeeell over 500 hp but torque likely be mid 400's. single plane like vic jr would work better over 6200 rpm but those heads really arent big enough for much over that rpm anyway.

My 383 was near 11 to 1 comp with afr 195's. 230/245 cam .603"/.613" 109 lsa. Peaked at 6250 rpm and held flat to 6600, shift by 6800. 93 oct no issues. 400 whp and mid 11's ET's in summer heat

 

What guys do in high(relative high compression engines on today's gas) is a ping pong game.They build a engine with a SCR higher than the recommended 10.5 one for aluminum heads or 9.5 for cast iron knowing it's too high.Adding compression and then taking it away with DCR or cam timing or including ignition timing retard taking away the advantage of the increase compression."Ping/Pong!!!.

Worst case is to build a engine/cam combo where the cam is not compression compatible and ignore quench target measurement of .040. Then wonder why they are dealing with a turd outcome.It's all about not knowing tune ups start in the basic build foundations and not knowing when done what they should have in a tailored RPM power curve and what they have missed out on.It's one of those"ya know it runs good,but it just doesn't sound right"...........................

IF you pay attention in a build plan right from the beginning,the same boat load of money properly applied will make a hell of a difference.AND it's all about the little things you have done adds up!!!

 

i just got my bloc apart and taking it to be machiened tomorrow

 

what cam manufacturer you use? i was looking at com cams extreme energy at 242 intake duration but not as much lift.