how much can a stock 700r and rear end hold

 

trans holds about 22 pints; rear a scosche above 2 quarts

 

whats up sofa...... Aaaaaaa I think he is talking about Horsepower.
I think it would depend on the condition of both and if your running slicks with hard launches. If you have a posi. or one wheel peal ,etc. There's a lot of factors involved. I have a rebuilt 10 bolt with 3.42s an 28 spline Eaton posi and Ultimate support cover and even that can really only survive around 350 to 400 HP with softer Auto trans launches and street tires or at least I've been told.

 

yes how much horsepower can a 700 r and a stock rear end holld

 

Ive put 440hp through a th350 and stock rear end for couple years, no traction=no problems

 

lol. Got my laugh in for the day. I needed that.

 

Its more so how much torque. Torque affects trans and rear more.

 

Depends on the year of the trans as they were sorting out reliability problems all the way up to 87/88-ish - if you have an early 27 spline 700R4 then I wouldn't do anything but run it until you have problems then upgrade to an 88-up trans with the aux VB and 30 spline input.

A lot of it has to do with how the transmission is abused (shock loads, overly harsh shift kit with tight converters, etc.) as well as if you can keep the fluid cool.

Assuming it's driven somewhat 'sane' then stock with no shift kit or even anything to raise line pressure - I wouldn't put more than 275 HP/325 ft-lb torque through it - if you've got some basic upgrades - the line pressure (i.e. .500 boost valve and the sonnax pressure regulator spring), increase band holding (i.e. "corvette" servo) and everything is in good shape - I'd add about 50-75hp and 100 ft-lb torque to the numbers.

I'd consider those numbers about max for anything you're going to drive moderately hard and I've known guys to bust them up with a lot less HP/TQ than that so it's all in how it's driven and maintained... Good news is they're relatively cheap to rebuild for more power holding capacity.

 

I will chime in here on an already informative thread with my experiences. What I learned was that while my built up trans could handle the torque and hp(about 420hp 450ftlbs) that my engine was putting through it, it eventually took its toll. One thing that helped it on its way out was high revs is second gear. My trans had the sonnax boost valve and spring mentioned above and the vette servo. It also had a ten vane pump and high performance clutches and band. But it didn't have the transgo rev kit with stiffer springs on the 3-4 and forward clutches. This kit holds the clutches against centrifugal apply at higher revs to at least slow destruction of the 3-4 clutches.

My point is, unless it's built correctly for your application, the trans may hold up for a while, but eventually, it will leave you. Every hard, high rpm shift is a nail in its coffin. As was also said above, there is a vast array of high strength parts, each engineered to address key weaknesses in the 700R4, available today and people like Dana at Pro Built Automatics who have made a career of building these things to handle insane amounts of power and abuse. So, fixing it to handle whatever you've got is not so tough. I actually built my own and I'm thinking it won't break anytime soon.

As far as the winky 10 bolt rear end goes, as was already said, no traction, no problem. Lol. Beyond that, save up for a 12 bolt GM or 9" Ford conversion.

 

9.73 at 142 on a 1.49 60' on bone stock 4th gen 10 bolt here. -700 rear wheel. Other one seen 1.41 and 1.45 60's, nitrous 500-550 rear wheel. My friends seen 1.38 60 ft. Some say its luck :shrug:

 

What did you do to either of them? If you say they're completely stock.. well... mind = blown.

 

it can hold as much as it takes to break it

I have had a stock 10 bolt from a 95 camaro (ive seen many break with a stock motor) I had a 383 LT4 it made 550 hp and I had a 150 shot on it all of this through a 6 speed with a spec stage 3 clutch I have easily over 200 track passes on this rear dumping the clutch at 3 k (t56) with nitto 315 rear tires and I pulled an average of 1.4 (best 60ft) to around 2.0 but the average was 1.8

Stock suspension


so you never know how long it will last untill it blows

 

But didn't the 4th gen get the 9 bolt Aussie rear?

 

no its just a ten bolt I think there are better axles but im not sure they did have the zexle torsen posi

 

NO

 

4th gen has 10 bolt just better posi imo and 28 spline axle.

Bone stock out the junk yard. First one was a 3.42 factory ss take out. Adjustable torque arm, -2.5 deg pinion angle i think, cant exactly remember. 10.63 at 127 on a nitrous hit. Then went 10.35 at 135 on twin turbo with softer 60 ft before chipping worm gear so it binded alittle on turns but drove fine straight line

Replaced that with 60$ 2.73 rear, also from 4th gen. Had bent axle so i reused the other 3.42 rear's factory axle. Drained the water out of it from sittin in junkyard and flushed with new gear oil lol. Thats been many 1.5-1.6 60's and glory pass was 1.49 with about a 700 whp tune thru a stalled th400. Never broke it, finally replaced with a 12 bolt with similar worm gear style posi

My buddy had a 3rd gen rear 10 bolt but not sure if it was stock. May have had 28 splines axles and diff cover for support and solid pinion spacer instead of crush sleeve. Been low 10.0's at mid high 130's on a nitrous 406, 1.38 60'

 

Those are impressive results for the stock rear axle for sure. How did you go about your 12 bolt? Did you go with a Strange or other pre-built or did you put it together yourself? What is your total investment in the unit?

 

Bought a friends used strange 12 bolt for 4th gen. Came with 33 spline axles and 3.73 spool. I got it for 1700. Had to replace axle bearing on passenger side. Swapped in a truetrac diff and richmond 3.42's. forget what they cost but figure around 600-700? So i have about 2500 into it i would guess, plus 150-200 to install gears. Still comes in cheaper than new plus no shipping. Also came with 2 sets of 4.11 gears and extra 4 series spool plus i sold the 3.73 setup for 120 i think? Still trying to sell the others

 

And for the record i am not condoning you try high hp thru ten bolts. Just stating my experience and one friends. Your mileage will vary. These are simply anomalies but goes to show it can be done. Stalled auto cars i would try a factory rear or atleast a latemodel rear, before buying a 9" or 12 bolt. You may get plenty of life out of one. Rears arent cheap and prime reason i took so long to get one

 

Looks like I'm going to be refreshing my engine before I do anything with my rear axle. The car's been getting increasingly touchy to start over the past few years and my low end torque just isn't what it was when the engine was first built, even with the big cam. I tested compression this morning and I will be redoing rings and pistons at least. May just go ahead and replace the complete rotating assembly. Everything but the pistons would then be used in the 377 I'll be building later.

 

I just took the plunge recently for a 9" and 6-point rollbar (same guy is building them both). Definitely painful, but at least I don't ever have to worry about breaking my rearend again. I weighed my pro's and con's about it, and I started thinking "well MAYBE I'll get away with it"... then the thought of paying a tow bill for me snapping the rear and plowing into a guard rail.. that changed my mind quickly. It's not worth my safety or other people's safety because I decided to be a cheapass.

 

Would you know how much hp and/or torque a 1990 pontiac firebird formula can handle, and if an ls6 engine is a good swap for it
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