I won't lie I love fuel injection which makes this to me a hard choice. My TPI is always needing work which usually fuel injection setups are usually very reliable. It my just be that it has sat so long may be that neglect before I owned it I don't know. I don't like carbs that much but I have never had as much trouble with them as my setup now. So just want some input carb or TPI?

And to go carb is it just as simple as removing the TPI components andputting on a carb and intake? My smog system has been done away with. My A/C compressor has been done away with I never use it because I have a T-Top I so love the wind in my hair.

 

I'd say stick with TPI. Swapping to carb can be done, and has been done by many, but EFI is really superior, especially if your car came with it.

 

Think about what is making your car unreliable. Is it part failures? These cars are getting older and certain parts(ICM, pick up coil, MAF sensor) do become prone to failure. However, if replaced with quality parts, these are not such a concern. Wiring on these older cars, especially with the degree of electronics involved, can also be an issue. Quality minded wiring repairs will solve this. I don't know of you daily drive your car but being that it's 29 years old, you need to be aware that it may be more of a weekend car now. You might want to drive something else to work everyday.

My car is a unique case perhaps because after owning it for one year, I performed a complete overhaul of the chassis, engine and electronics. I have had almost no failure issues since then. The only failures I have had were in areas where I could have gone further to begin with. I have since addressed these areas. As reliable as my car is, I only drive it in good weather, less than 4,000 miles a year.

I work on carbureted vehicles regularly. I would never trade my TPI for a carb.

 

If you swap to carb, get used to posting this kind of thread.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...idles-too.html

 

Well I know TPI is superior and I think it is just frustration because of this stupid issue and I am sure once I finally get it fixed I won't be so willing to even think of giving up my TPI.

 

Would a 29 year old carb car with the original parts be any more reliable?
Nothing lasts forever and the problem with EFI is ,generally it is so reliable nobody ever replaces parts ( periodic maintenance ) until the engine doesn't run any more
Then with the 25 year old parts , they say it's unreliable , costs to much $$ to keep running = Carb Swap

 

Both have advantages. I'll take a GOOD carburetor any day of the week over fuel injection.

 

I would NOT switch a TPI car to carb.

I HATE DETEST AND DESPISE TPI. Everybody knows that. But a carb is most likely not the best answer.

A better solution, that will give you FAR MORE performance than TPI while costing FAR LESS money up-front than a carb, let alone the long-term cost of lower efficiency, would be the Holley Stealth Ram.

 

Was against fuel injection 2 yrs ago. Ask me today, and it's fuel injection for me. All boils down to the use of the application. If it's a daily driver that you really need reliability and don't have the particular knowledge or tools at hand, I say go fuel injection. If its built for track days and top dollar HP, carb all the way. The limitations are far less with a carburetor. Long as you know what your doing.

 

May I ask, what is the issue with your car?

 

Well glad to say the issue was the TPS and thanks to vetteoz who pointed me there. I really thought I had that fixed. Is there any reason it would keep getting out of adjustment? Also I was thinking of swapping engines but I am not going that route, just transmission is all. This is why I love this forum!!!!

 

Make sure the threads aren't stripped for the TPS base and the connector is seated properly. Mine on my mustang came out of adjustment because I was moving stuff around and it wasnt seated firmly so it moved from its position and rotated slightly. It's usually small stuff, heh.

 

Be sure also that the 5v reference circuit (pin C at the sensor) from the ECM is a solid 5v with the key on, engine off. 4.8v is okay but any lower can cause TPS signal to be low. Then check the ECM ground circuit(pin A) for a solid ground by measuring voltage between the terminal and BATT negative. It shouldn't read more than .2 volts difference from BATT. negative. If it does, you may want to check grounds at the rear of both cylinder heads and check connections at the ECM. Things to think about, especially on an older vehicle.