This is my last resort before I take it in to the shop. Not a daily driver but I would turn the car on once a month just to get the juices flowing. Before my car stopped working when I would turn it on and step on the gas I would lose rpms. The rpms always went down like if it was choking the engine. Once the engine warmed up a bit stepping on the gas wasn't a problem only on cold starts.

Fuel pump works. I jumped it from the relay and even checked if it spit out fuel without the fuel filter. Filter is ok Wix brand not clogged. Fuel Pump and Fuel filter is 2yrs old. I thought it was the relay so I replaced that part. From the relay connector I get 12vpower and checked the 3rd pin with a test light when engine is off. Fuel fuse is fine not blown. I checked the ohms on my fuel injectors and they all read 15ohms. I'm not sure why the fuel rail does not have any fuel. My fuel pressure gauge reads 0..nothing even when I crank. I don't have code reader/scanner so not sure what to check next. Any suggestions?

 

I would trust your fuel pressure gauge and replace the pump.

 

That's what I was thinking and I'm afraid I would have to take it to the shop since I don't really have the space or tools to drop the fuel tank.

 

You can disconnect the flex lines going to the fuel rail and check the flow of gas. Make sure you have the proper fuel container for this and someone to turn the key on/off for you.

 

Should I turn it on without the crank or crank it?

 

there's 2 lines going in to the fuel rail. Inlet line and Return line. I'm assuming inlet?

 

Correct! Inlet line, just turn the key on...no crank!

 

There should be a steady stream of gas coming out.

 

There will be fuel only for a moment with the ignition on. After the 2 second prime, the ECM needs to see crank reference pulses to turn the pump on. So you will need to crank the engine. You have verified that the pump runs when the relay is jumped but you still need to verify that the relay is being activated before you condemn the pump.

Pin A (orange) is Batt+ to the relay and should be hot at all times. Pin E (tan/white) is relay output to the pump and should be hot with the relay activated. Pin D (dark green) is FP relay drive from the ECM and should have 12v for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on and steady when cranking. Pin F (black/white) should be a good ground.

 

Pin D (dark green) is FP relay drive from the ECM and should have 12v for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on and steady when cranking.

I tested this and I did get 12v. I thought it was the relay and replaced it with a new part but still nothing. I tried disconnecting the inlet line going into the fuel rail but it was too freaking hard. I'll probably try again tomorrow. Thanks for the input.

 

Okay, by verifying 12v at the dark green wire you know now that the ECM is activating the relay. Use a paperclip or some other piece of fine, stiff wire to back probe the tan/white wire at the relay. This will confirm power to the pump. You say that you ran the pump. Where did you connect power to it?

There is a four pin connector just above and in front of the tank. You can access it from under the car. I have not seen any trouble with this connector but you might check it just in case.

The fuel lines are difficult to disconnect from the rails. They aren't designed to be disassembled there except on the bench. There are disconnects where the steel lines from the tank meet the flexible lines on the left hand side of the motor. So you know, when we say left side and right side we mean as viewed from the driver's seat.

 

[quote=ASE doc;5593247]Okay, by verifying 12v at the dark green wire you know now that the ECM is activating the relay. Use a paperclip or some other piece of fine, stiff wire to back probe the tan/white wire at the relay. This will confirm power to the pump. You say that you ran the pump. Where did you connect power to it?

I used a piece of wire and put it on relay connector pin 1 and pin 5 which I heard the pump turn on. Also, with the filter off I turned the key...no crank and my helper confirmed fuel spilling out of the line.

There is a four pin connector just above and in front of the tank. You can access it from under the car. I have not seen any trouble with this connector but you might check it just in case.

I saw this connector but didn't think to check it. What exactly what I be checking? Would you know what connector pins are for?

 

Okay. I finally confirmed that my fuel pump is bad...dang. Now any suggestions on brand. I looking at acdelco, delphi or denso. Which do you guys suggest?

 

Ive had good luck AC Delco. BOSCH and Denso are also good.

 

http://www.racetronix.biz/index.asp?...FromFeatured=1