So my 1991 camaro z28 isn't getting any spark. I'm trying to test the resistance on the ignition module but don't know what the correct ohms should be for the resistance. Could anyone answer this question for me I already tried google? By the way it's the 5.0 TPI engine

 

I had to pull my ignition module off my distributor and get it checked at Autozone. It was bad. Replaced it and got my spark back.

 

No spark testing .
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_ic...n_module_1.php

read all 6 pages

 

\I had the same problem, all I did was disconnect the Tack and it started with no problems. Re-connected the tack, no spark

I am running now with out a TACK.

 

You found the cause of the problem but did not FIX the problem.
Did you inspect the tach wiring to repair the short circuit? & was the tach connect the correct side of the coil?



OP

The module in the distributor seldom goes bad, not saying that is not possible, but I would test the COIL first.

Then test and the high tension lead to the distributor.
inspect the distributor cap & rotor and all the spark plugs wires.

Rule out the obvious first.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c1528025f55c

how to test the HEI coil...

 

If you register with Autozone you have unlimited access to the repair guides

All these basic tests are in the Chiton's Manual for the 3rd gen... why not invest in the book if you plan to keep the car.

I had my Chilton's for over 20 years.. it is excellent reference material. they turn up on Ebay all the time and sometimes the OEM SHOP manuals as well.. since there is nothing OEM about by drivetrain I never bothered to invest in the shop manuals.

 

The easiest way to test a module on the car is to ensure that the wiring & pickup coil are OK. The module is essentially an amplifier with a built in analog to digital convertor.


Easy tests:


1. Test for power at the pink BAT terminal. You should have battery voltage w/ the key in the start and RUN positions.


2. Connect the ground side of your test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while a helper attempts to start the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink= bad module or pickup coil. Further testing is required to pinpoint the problem. Blink but no spark = bad ignition coil.


3. Remove the cap & rotor. Remove the green & white leads from the module. Connect your ohmmeter to the green & white leads. You should have approx. 800-1500 ohms depending on the ambient temperature. Open circuit (infinite ohms) = bad pickup coil.


Wiggle the green & white leads as you test. Ohm reading should remain constant if the leads are good. If the reading varies as the leads are wiggled, the pickup coil is bad. You'll often find broken pickup coil leads this way.


4. DVOM (meter) still connected to green & white leads. Set your DVOM to AC VOLTS. Have a helper crank the engine as you watch the AC VOLTS reading. A good pickup coil will produce about 3V AC when cranking. Less than approx. 2V AC indicates a bad pickup coil.


Read more: http://forums.carcraft.com/70/661769...#ixzz2dBHjDNGV

 

If you have to remove or replace the module be sure to clean the mounting base and install new heat sink compound.

A new module should come with the compound in small applicator tube.