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Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 09:44 AM
  #1  
smittyakalance's Avatar
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383 Stroker with edelbrock heads
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

Okay guys, I have a weird one. Replaced my lock cylinder because the tumbler locked up in the "ON" position so my car would not turn off, so what i did was immediately drive home and pull the ecm fuse so the car would die. Today i noticed when i took the column apart that the old cylinder had already had a VATS bypass because the white wire was non existent. I put my new cylinder in the column and reassembled and the car will crank but will not fire. Any suggestions?
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #2  
Damon's Avatar
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From: Philly, PA
Re: Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

If it was a VATS issue it wouldn't even crank. Beyond that, I'm not sure where to direct you other than beginning a basic diagnostic procedure from the "top of the tree."

You have the Edelbrock power package on your motor? Does that include the TBI to port-injection conversion with the special intake, injectors, wiring harness and everyting? If so, I may have a few questions for you (once you get it running, of course).
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #3  
vetteoz's Avatar
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From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

Originally Posted by smittyakalance
the car will crank but will not fire. Any suggestions?
Is the fuel pump running , got fuel pressure at the engine?
Checked for injector pulse ?
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #4  
smittyakalance's Avatar
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Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 58
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383 Stroker with edelbrock heads
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Re: Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

Originally Posted by vetteoz
Is the fuel pump running , got fuel pressure at the engine?
Checked for injector pulse ?
Yes I have fuel pressure and I get a flame through the tbi and the car will not fire up, and I have the edelbrock heads, and intake with upgraded tbi injectors but I went with a comp cam 8-500-8 and I also have roller tip rockers with .30 over bore
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 10:44 PM
  #5  
vetteoz's Avatar
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20 Year Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

Originally Posted by smittyakalance
I have fuel pressure the car will not fire up,
Checked for injector pulse ?
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #6  
Damon's Avatar
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From: Philly, PA
Re: Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

When you say you get "flame" through the TBI you mean it barfs back through the throttle body? That's usually a bad sign. Either the timing has shifted (a lot), you jumped a tooth or two on the timing chain and/or you had some valve-to-piston contact and dinged a valve or two crooked.

In any case, the FIRST thing I would do is run a compression test on all 8. If you find one or two (or more) that are way below the rest, you got internal engine issues. If all of them are just way-low across the board, you might have jumped the timing chain.

Not saying this is the problem but you really need to rule it out.

Beyond that I would have to believe you have distributor, wiring or ECM issues.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #7  
smittyakalance's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 58
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383 Stroker with edelbrock heads
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Re: Replaced key cylinder cranks but no start

Originally Posted by Damon
When you say you get "flame" through the TBI you mean it barfs back through the throttle body? That's usually a bad sign. Either the timing has shifted (a lot), you jumped a tooth or two on the timing chain and/or you had some valve-to-piston contact and dinged a valve or two crooked.

In any case, the FIRST thing I would do is run a compression test on all 8. If you find one or two (or more) that are way below the rest, you got internal engine issues. If all of them are just way-low across the board, you might have jumped the timing chain.

Not saying this is the problem but you really need to rule it out.

Beyond that I would have to believe you have distributor, wiring or ECM issues.
Thank you its probably timing it ran fine before the tumbler broke in the on position tomorrow im going re time it but its not that big of a deal I have a new motor that's very close to being done
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