1989 IROC/Z28 no power
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: Manual
1989 IROC/Z28 no power
Losing power as it warms up. Changed cap and rotor. Had ignition module checked and regreased when reinstalling. Changed fuel pump assembly 2 years ago. Car sat for 10 years. Only needed fuel pump to get running. Has run fine until lately. Plugs look good. New fuel and air filters. Exhaust seems ok. Checked temp of cat when running bad. Front around 250. Middle 400. Rear pipe out 180. Had to keep idle above 2000 to keep running. Also rebuilt fuel pressure regulator at TBI. Set code for ESC. Checked timing and is advancing but erratic. Unplugged ESC timing was better but still jumping. Ran car with disconnected ESC but still started to lose power as warmed up. Car has 58000 miles.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: Manual
Re: 1989 IROC/Z28 no power
Losing power as it warms up. Changed cap and rotor. Had ignition module checked and regreased when reinstalling. Changed fuel pump assembly 2 years ago. Car sat for 10 years. Only needed fuel pump to get running. Has run fine until lately. Plugs look good. New fuel and air filters. Exhaust seems ok. Checked temp of cat when running bad. Front around 250. Middle 400. Rear pipe out 180. Had to keep idle above 2000 to keep running. Also rebuilt fuel pressure regulator at TBI. Set code for ESC. Checked timing and is advancing but erratic. Unplugged ESC timing was better but still jumping. Ran car with disconnected ESC but still started to lose power as warmed up. Car has 58000 miles.
Checked fuel pressure at filter. only place I could hook up adapter 14psi steady. check and cleaned egr working all right. checked timing and seems to be set correct but was jumping around even at idle. advanced with rpm's but still erratic. seems to be jumping around 8-10 degrees just staying at idle and at advanced rpm's. does this sound like an ignition module or distributor problem? I can't seem to figure out how the timing advances on this set-up. with no movement or the rotor possible I can't seems to get my head around it. rotor position and cap position never can change. is it possible the coil can be bad. need to find a way to check.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,592
Likes: 31
From: IL
Car: 1988 Formula
Engine: 421 Little M block
Transmission: TH400 w/brake
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.30s, Wilwood discs, 28X10.5-15
Re: 1989 IROC/Z28 no power
14 PSI on a tuned port car is way too low.
when you say "losing power" what exactly do you mean?
runs and dies ??? or losing electrical power and dies... ?
since you did not mention anything about the battery & alternator I assume you have NOT tested the charging system yet.
any good repair manual will show you how to test the ignition coil, but if the car sat for 10 years you should really be checking the battery & alternator.
A tuned port car will have a shrader valve on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure.
when you say "losing power" what exactly do you mean?
runs and dies ??? or losing electrical power and dies... ?
since you did not mention anything about the battery & alternator I assume you have NOT tested the charging system yet.
any good repair manual will show you how to test the ignition coil, but if the car sat for 10 years you should really be checking the battery & alternator.
A tuned port car will have a shrader valve on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: Manual
Re: 1989 IROC/Z28 no power
14 PSI on a tuned port car is way too low.
when you say "losing power" what exactly do you mean?
runs and dies ??? or losing electrical power and dies... ?
since you did not mention anything about the battery & alternator I assume you have NOT tested the charging system yet.
any good repair manual will show you how to test the ignition coil, but if the car sat for 10 years you should really be checking the battery & alternator.
A tuned port car will have a shrader valve on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure.
when you say "losing power" what exactly do you mean?
runs and dies ??? or losing electrical power and dies... ?
since you did not mention anything about the battery & alternator I assume you have NOT tested the charging system yet.
any good repair manual will show you how to test the ignition coil, but if the car sat for 10 years you should really be checking the battery & alternator.
A tuned port car will have a shrader valve on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,592
Likes: 31
From: IL
Car: 1988 Formula
Engine: 421 Little M block
Transmission: TH400 w/brake
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.30s, Wilwood discs, 28X10.5-15
Re: 1989 IROC/Z28 no power
14 psi is fine for TBI fuel pressure.. did you test the pressure under load? to rule out weak pump or clogged lines?
otherwise it sounds like a spark / timing / ignition issue..
any trouble codes? to rule out sensors?
otherwise it sounds like a spark / timing / ignition issue..
any trouble codes? to rule out sensors?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: Manual
Re: 1989 IROC/Z28 no power
Still having same troubles. Changed to new distributor, coil, catalytic converter, drained gas and put in fresh. Runs ok when started cold then gets worst when warming up. Cat was bad, had above 5 psi back pressure under load. Checked erg and it was clean and opened ok. Also changed the temp sensor for motor. Can an ECM be checked out? It was not getting warm to touch when acting up.
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