I took the heads off because I wanted to check the head gaskets. I thought I was getting water in the oil, although the water level in the radiator never really went down each time I would change the oil it would feel watery. This motor has seen no street time at all, just sits in my driveway. Already did the intake manifold gaskets and the head gasket was fine so I figure just moisture in the crankcase because I never really let it run to operating temp because I didn't have the fan hooked up yet. Also the oil would be black immediately after an oil change. Well ever since I put everything back together I can't get the rockers adjusted right. It has hydraulic lifters. It's only one lifter ticking but when I tighten it down till the tick goes away, as soon as I give it has it comes back. I don't want to over tighten it. I'm afraid I might have though in attempt to quiet it down. I also noticed the engine wants to or either does shut off when I tighten it too much or to quick. The motor is a 350, fresh rebuild with less than 3 passes at the strip. All of the exhaust manifold bolts are tight so that rules out an exhaust leak. I just let it run at operating temp for about 25 minutes to get all the moisture out of the crank case and I put in 15w40 and a half can of sea foam in the crank case to attempt to clean out any sludge from the car.
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well, if your saying you set your pre-load right on the rocker. The only case i can think of. Is that the lobe of the cam shaft there or the lifter is fuc*ked. If its worn bad. such as what flat tappet cams like to do on fresh rebuilds. If they arent broken in right. Then that rocker will never adjust right.
John in RI
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- Join DateAug 1999
- LocationRI
- Posts:5,276
- iTrader Positive Feedback100
- iTrader Feedback Score(170)
- Car1984 Camaro Berlinetta
- EngineLT1
- TransmissionT56 6-speed
- Axle/Gears4.11 LS1 Rear End
- Likes:125
- Liked:469 Times in 363 Posts
Might be your Fuel Pump,......
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...e-driving.html
I tried to re-set my rockers - twice,... then I installed new lifters/rods/rockers, then pulled the tranny so I could swap torque converter and flywheel.
The problem turned out to be a cheap fuel pump.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...e-driving.html
I tried to re-set my rockers - twice,... then I installed new lifters/rods/rockers, then pulled the tranny so I could swap torque converter and flywheel.
The problem turned out to be a cheap fuel pump. 
Quote:
The problem turned out to be a cheap fuel pump.
I tried to use a hose and put it in various areas that included and it just seems to come from the driver side valve cover I think intake valve on cylinder 3, that was the one that was giving me trouble but I will try again.Originally Posted by John in RI
Might be your Fuel Pump,...... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...e-driving.html I tried to re-set my rockers - twice,... then I installed new lifters/rods/rockers, then pulled the tranny so I could swap torque converter and flywheel.
The problem turned out to be a cheap fuel pump.
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This is exactly what it was! One intake lobe was completely rounded, lifter was concave. All others were perfect. Such a shame.Originally Posted by Shep5B
well, if your saying you set your pre-load right on the rocker. The only case i can think of. Is that the lobe of the cam shaft there or the lifter is fuc*ked. If its worn bad. such as what flat tappet cams like to do on fresh rebuilds. If they arent broken in right. Then that rocker will never adjust right. Yes I am sure you will dig in there and fix it. It is so important after pre-lube and starting for the first time to keep the rpm's above 1500. If adjustments need to be made shut the engine off, make adjustment and restart then go right back to 1500 rpm's or higher right away. I do this for a straight 30 minutes to break in cam and lifters.
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I've always heard it was 2000Originally Posted by Edwardgp
Yes I am sure you will dig in there and fix it. It is so important after pre-lube and starting for the first time to keep the rpm's above 1500. If adjustments need to be made shut the engine off, make adjustment and restart then go right back to 1500 rpm's or higher right away. I do this for a straight 30 minutes to break in cam and lifters. Quote:
Already done! Lubed cam and lifters, set at 6 o'clock 12 o'clock, adjusted rockers then 12 oclock 12 o'clock adjusted rockers, put everything back in adjusted timing a little and ran it at 2200-2700 for about 20 minutes. No ticking at all, valve train is the most quiet I've heard it. So far so good. Also used Lucas oil additive with 15w40 oil. Drained oil once right after break in, and then put more 15w40 with more oil additive. Runs smooth as silk Originally Posted by Edwardgp
Yes I am sure you will dig in there and fix it. It is so important after pre-lube and starting for the first time to keep the rpm's above 1500. If adjustments need to be made shut the engine off, make adjustment and restart then go right back to 1500 rpm's or higher right away. I do this for a straight 30 minutes to break in cam and lifters. 
Supreme Member
Any reason you're running such a thick oil?
That's the way to do it Mr. When you get a chance you should post up some more pictures of your project.
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Where should I post them?? I'll post all the pictures/videos start till now, maybe I'll make a thread for itOriginally Posted by Edwardgp
That's the way to do it Mr. When you get a chance you should post up some more pictures of your project. Quote:
That's just what I was always told, the diesel oil has the most zinc and is good for break in, not sure about it nowOriginally Posted by Dakota W.
Any reason you're running such a thick oil? I am an old fart and have trouble with computers as it is. I can never get my pictures transferred from camera to computer, maybe someone can help us both.
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I have everything thing on my phoneOriginally Posted by Edwardgp
I am an old fart and have trouble with computers as it is. I can never get my pictures transferred from camera to computer, maybe someone can help us both. Supreme Member
The thing with thicker oil is just that, it's thicker, which means it's harder for an engine with tighter clearances to get properly lubed up. I personally don't go any thicker than 10-30. Also, there are oils designed specifically for break-ins.

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I might change oils after the first 500 miles or so, which might be awhile. I've only racked up 10 miles since I've had the car so far lolOriginally Posted by Dakota W.
The thing with thicker oil is just that, it's thicker, which means it's harder for an engine with tighter clearances to get properly lubed up. I personally don't go any thicker than 10-30. Also, there are oils designed specifically for break-ins.




