Hey all.

84 T/A here. For the past few days my ignition has been acting wierd. I first had problems turning the car from "run" to off, felt like it was binding. I'd play with it a bit and then it would free up.

Well, Starting last Saturday, I've been having an issue where the ignition wouldn't turn from "run" to "start". It freely moves between run and accy, but when I try and turn it to start it won't go. it feels like it's binding on something. I can "force" it to "start", so it's not locked up. But I don't want to break something if I can help it.

I've only had the column apart to tighten the tilt and while I had the ignition apart then, it was working fine so I had no issues.

Has anyone experienced this a binding issue with the ignition like this?

 

I've had some similar issues on a cavalier I once owned. Problem ended up being that one of the metal pieces inside the cylinder that gets pushed by the teeth on the key (I appologise for lack of technical terminology) had managed to come out of it's place and therefore the ignition didn't work with the key, had to replace the ignition cylinder.

I had another similar problem when I had poorly made keys for a vehicle, or worn out keys.

Hope that helps.

 

I have another set of keys for the car I can try. The cylinder is the original to the car so it's quite possible it's just worn out.

 

Im not sure .

I don't think that there can be any wear like that to allow the key to move fine in all positions other than start . Either the lock cylinder pins are pushed in far enough to turn or not and if not it wouldn't turn at all . I think You will be looking for something binding anywhere between the lock cylinder itself , the little "rack" and push rod that the lock cyl slides back and forward , or in the actual ignition switch itself . Don't overlook the possibility that the cable that runs from the shifter to the column could interfere as well (not 100% certain on this though , I know with the ignition locked , that cable locks the shifter . But I THINK also if the shifter is in any "D" or "R" position , it wont allow the key to be turned to start to sort of "back up" the function of the neutral safety switch ? Anyone else have any idea if I am correct or thinking of one of my other cars ?)

Anyway , best of luck with it and please report back what ya find when ya take it apart ...

 

Double check the lower plastic column housing. It should rotate a few degrees back and forth. It should have a clip on it from the transmission shift cable. It keeps the car from being started while in gear.

 

Thank You Odie for confirming what I thought , that the cable does the dual function of not allowing shifter movement with the key locked and not allowing the key to be turned to start when the shifter is in any "D" or "R" position ...

 

Ok, I turned the car "on" and put it in "D". The iginition "locked" in run, I was not able to rotate the ignition at all. I then put the car in "N" and tried to start it. Same symptoms as in "P". I could turn it to run, but when putting to "start" it would feel like it's binding or catching on something (lots of resistance but I can still turn the key if i push hard enough). I put it back in park and did the same thing. Leads me to believe there is an issue in the cylinder area itself rather than the mechanism you all are describing.

I ordered a new ignition with key from Hawks tonight so we'll see how that all works out.

 

Ozz, I think I may not have been clear enough. I'm asking you to leave the car in park, but manually turn the steering column cover.

In this pic (ignore the arrows) it is the round plastic sleeve that surrounds the steering column. Grab that and rotate it clockwise/counter-clockwise while trying to turn the key (don't apply too much pressure).



Same thing happened when I swapped my '82 column into my '87 Camaro. The early one had the safety connected to this plastic column cover with a clip while the '87 connected to the actual electric switch. Once I put it in, I found I couldn't start the car. Took me a bunch of poking around to finally figure it out. Now it acts as a security device, when I park the car, I turn the column housing - so even if someone knocks out the ignition switch, they can't start it!

 

Glad to help! I fought with this thing for an hour before I finally figured it out.

 

The ignition lock, yes that was the first thing I tried and initially that worked. I with that lock engaged, the ignition is locked and can't even be turned to "run". Now I can crank it as far left or right as I can (until I can't physically move it any more due to pressure on the wheels), and it doesn't free up the do anything. The key turns freely from stop to accy, to run...but not to "start". when I roll the key forward it just slowly binds, like it's catching on something and maybe bending it. Don't want to break anything so I'm not forcing it over to start but I'm 90% sure I could if I kept pressing it.

 

Not the lock. And I have no idea what you mean by "pressure on the wheels". Grab the outside of the steering column right in front of the gauges and try turning it clockwise/counter-clockwise.

 

Presure on the wheels meaning I can't turn the wheel anymore...it spins freely. I get about a full turn out of it before I can't crank on it anymore. It's harder to turn a power-steering car with the power steering disabled (i.e. car off) than it is a non-power sterring car.

I guess I can try again tonight after work.

 

Ok, had a friend help me move the car into the garage. ON the smoother floor of the garage I can turn the steering wheel full lock to full lock. No matter how far I turned it, nothing would free the key up to let me turn it to start. I'm going to pick up a steering wheel puller tomorrow and take it apart to see what's what inside.

 

Ozz - I a NOT talking about the steering wheel. Do not turn the steering wheel. I am talking about the plastic collar that is on the outside of the steering column. Black pipe-like thing that comes through the dashboard.

Put your right hand on the ignition switch. Now take your hand off and move it toward the dash until you hit the gauges. Now go down and grab the outside of the column and turn it.

This part, circled in red:

 

Ok...I'm an Idiot...I'll take a look at that tonight after work.

 

Ok, that part is rock solid, can't move it with my hands.

 

i would take a close look at the rod while turning the key, gust to make sure it is not binding up ... could have had something get in the way down there

 

Ok, I got the column apart down to basically this picture. I see the mechanism your talking about on the passenger side. I put the ignition back on it to turn just to see how it moves and the thing moves without a hitch...so I don't know what it was binding on...there is nothing obvious. I have the spark disconnected at the distributor and have cranked it at least 10-20 times and can't see any obvious binding in the mechanism I"m going to put some new grease on it and put it all back together and see what happens.

 

Just to close this out. I greased up the internals. What I think was happening was the steering wheel lock mechanism was binding, not allowing the key to turn all the way "on". It wasn't an ignition issue after all. Three months now and no issues.

 

So I figured out what this was because it happened again after I had to disassembled the column to re-tighten the wheel that had gotten all wobbly. There is a wire that is on the left side of the column connected to the steering wheel lock. When you turn the key, this wire is pulled in and out. Well, it's shaped in kind of a curley-q form. There is a slot on the geart that turns where the "Elbow" portion of this wire goes. If it slips out of the slot, it gets caught under the gear which causes the binding. I have a picture of it but it's not very good quality that I'll post showing what I am talking about.

 

I have been wrestling with what I thought to be an ignition switch issue and I finally got to the point I removed the housing and I think you are correct. Is there any way you could please post that picture since I think the wire is causing the binding in my ignition. Thanks a million. (I know this is an old thread but I hope you get this)