howdy, I have a t/a with a 305, originally a tpi and now straight carb.
eddy rpm and holley 600 vac sec, no choke.
Stock heads, vac advanced dizzy.
After the carb conversion, she burns a little oil.
There's also a slight smell of gas on the dipstick and in the pan.
I've changed the oil since. Otherwise she runs and idles fine, though blows fire out the left side header on WOT.
The pcv hoses aren't hooked to the air cleaner, and its definitely oil. Not much is being burned.
motor has 36k original miles, bored .40 over.
Could that be bad rings? Valve guides? or the carb adjusted wrong?

What was done to regulate fuel pressure?

Nothing, but the original pump was pulled and replaced with a filter, with a new one installed in the engine bay putting out 6 psi.
the mods I've done are eddy intake, holley carb, accel vacuum advance dizzy, SBC headers flipped, carb fuel pump, fel pro gaskets, and ford plug wires.
She has no problem running, and actually wasn't getting enough fuel till I adjusted the floats. No vacuum leaks either, and she didn't burn anything whilst the tpi was still installed

Shoulda left EFI on it ... Y go backwards in technology ?

$1500 build, computer was fried, injectors were fried, and half the harness was fried. Plus I like the simplicity of a carb

Mechanical fuel pumps will put gas in the oil when there's a leak in the pump diaphragm.

There is no mechanical..Its an electric in line pump.

Specifics are always nice...

Have you verified fuel pressure at the carb?

Electric pumps work better close to the tank, but that isn't causing your gas-in-oil problem.

How did you set the ignition timing, and where do you have it set?

Yes, confirmed 6 psi at carb with two different gauges.
Ignition timing set via slowly rotate crank, stick screwdriver in #1 hole, repeat till its at tdc.
Can't say exactly how much since its tuned by ear, but I can rotate the dizzy an inch and a half ish either direction and it bogs. Right where I have it sounds the best and runs the best. Revvs up fine with no stumbling er backfire from carb, though my headers make nice flamethrowers at redline, regardless where I set timing.
(headers are shorties flipped upside down)

Isn't a 312 a Ford motor from the 1950s?

I dunno, but a 305 bored 40 over makes a 312. Pointless if ya ask me

I just never heard of a 305 referred to as a 312, but now I have.

Mostly she didn't burn oil before the intake swap.
Two bolts won't scree all the way in, one by cyl 7, the other in the middle other side. They only go half way down, could that be the cause? Oil leaking to the intake?

Is say more like gas leaking from intake into oil when engine is off or at idle and oil getting sucked into the intake when rpm's rise

Take it apart and put it together correctly then report back

Theres always two that won't thread in all the way, no matter what I do. They're the original intake bolts as well, going back in the same hole they came out of.

Would it wreck anything by just leaving it and making sure I have enough oil?

Take it apart run a tap down the hole and reassemble.

Are you using the correct intake? Some have slanted center holes I think 87 and up.

You need the correct carb intake or to oblong the holes.

It appears to be correct. I have an 85 block, no idea what the intake came from, it was a junkyard find. Every time I put it back on, its two different ones that won't thread all the way. Always one on each side though

Take it off, run a tap through all the head holes and slowly thread the bolts back in. Don't thread any one in all the way first do them all even. You may have to open the intake holes up a little first.

Inspect the bolts for damage as well.

What is the casting number on the heads?

Center bolt valve covers?

Alright, I'll give that a go. Without the intake, all the bolts will thread all the way in. Dunno if that's relevant or not.

I haven't looked, they're factory for an 85 tpi though.
Negative, ghost rider

OK sounds like you have regular SBC heads. Look for a PN on the intake manifold and check to see what it is made for.

Otherwise you may have to open the holes on the intake a bit. My block was decked and I had to do the same.

Intake gasket and non functioning PVC system.

Just fired her back up, noticing something else. It seems to be just the drivers side header, and it gets worse the longer she runs. Passenger side sounds fine and doesn't smoke at all. I noticed one bolt on my drivers side header somehow wiggled out as well
If a video would help I could take one

Its not much at first, and its not a steady stream. It comes in pulses, after running about 5 minutes the drivers header turns into a steam engine. Only its oil lol

Compression test shows 190 +/- 5, only a wee bit of oil on plugs 1 and 3, and it never fouls out. On the bolt on the intake drivers side I noticed it had a little oil on it, as well as a small amount puddled on the intake above it.
Starting to think Tis an intake gasket/intake not tight enough.

Like others gave already said, replace the intake gaskets, tighten the bolts properly ( proper torque AND sequence) use sealer on the bolt threads.
Hook up the Pcv system and male sure thr other valve cover has a breather.

Header bolts often need retorquing.

Intake bolts will require retorquing after it has ran the first time.