I have a 1983 trans am lowerd 2" nwc t5 3.31 disk posi and a balance . Blueprinted 355 block with flat top pistons. Im not positive on the cam because my brother built the engine in 1985 and the car has been sitting garaged since 1989!!! The duration is around 230-240 its lumpy lump idol sounds lile a ***** thumper cam. The heads are 882 2.02 ported and polished and milled down to 70cc. It has a port matched torker 2 intake. What carb should i run on this beast? It had a old carter on it that my brother jetted and it was no good anymore dont know the size. My friend gave me a edelbrock 600 thats on it now i havint drove it yet its in my shop for paint work it runs great but what do you guys think

 

Also the motor is making between 10-11 compreshion. It has custom long tube headers that go into two 2.5 inch pipes that run next eachother and y into a 3" at the location of where the cat was. The three inch pipe follows stock location and goes into a race tube also where the stock muffler was. Exit is single hide away. Sounds sick and you can really feel the exhaust blow out at idol hard. My bro thought all this up i the eightys. Wow. He also.said guys would get the torker two and port them out and add a one inch spacer. It really woke out t up. Cant wait to drive it

 

600 edelbrock or holley take your pick.

 

I'd vote for a 650 Holley

Check these out:

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/0...-a-carburetor/

http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...Carburetor.pdf

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ng_right_carb/

 

I was thinking about trying a holly 650 double pumper because I want mechanical secondary throttle and my bro told me that type of single plane intake likes carbs on the smaller side for daily driving. I am still gona run the edel 600 first and see if it wants more. and i got some mustangs around here in massachusetts that need a spanking badly.hey how does the t5 hold up. my car has a hayes clutch in it my bro said he has blown the third gear once from missing a shift. it has the stock shifter in it and i just order a pro 5.0.thanks guys!

 

The T5 should hold up with that engine as long as you don't miss shifts. 3rd gear is the worst gear to miss There are a few things that seem a bit mismatched.

The 882 heads are kinda junky even ported and with bigger valves. You may want to look into removing those.

To get a 10-11:1 compression with 70cc heads the pistons would need a decent dome. DO you have any idea what kind they are? You should find out if you want to swap heads.

Ditch the torquer 2 intake and get a nice RPM performer dual plane.

Nothing about that combo screams anything bigger than a 600-650. For now I would keep the 600 and spend money on tune up items and a new manifold.

 

 

last week i got a msd hei rebuild kit with 50.000 volt mod and coil came with everything nice price to! also replaced the old accel wires were dry rotted so i got some custom taylor 8.2 race wires 90 angle boots for the headers. a set of u grove header plugs. the week before all new fuel lines and gas tank and sender. new carter mechanical pump and 3/8 lines.new vac lines.one wire 100 amp alt with jegs install kit. a jegs high torque starter up to 11.1 comp. it wouldint turn the motor over and it sounded like the bat was dead or dying so thats why i got the high torque starter. all new terminals and ignition/starter connections and wires nothing is over 10 gauge so no current drop.this is a super strong running motor now. the pistons are domed by the way. I will upload the new pics of the freshened up motor. as for the intake my bro swears by it!! he said its a piece of **** stock but after it was port matched and took a nice porting it performed really well and its supposed to pull like horse from 2000 to 7000. we shall see. the heads are not the best i know but im not so shure about putting new ones on with the big mystery cam that my brother cant remember the max lift for. lol

 

need more info on cam specs, dur, dur@.200, dur@.050, int/exh lift, LC.
is the cam a HYD roller or flat tappet
As for the MSD HEI I'd lock it out and get rid of the vacuum and centrifical advance.
get a rpm air gap manifold
then if the cam is stout enough go to a Quick fuel 750 mechanical

 

RWB could you pls tell me about the lock out and how to do it? im no super mechanic! I know alot but not everything I am autobody painter by trade and have been painting for 20years. building/ learning sbc motors when i can. had a chevelle in high school with a 307 that i built up some. got a 76 camaro during my 20tys. again nothing to fast. got married and now in my late 30tys im back at it again! havint got greasy in a long time and loving it

 

For a daily driver, I'd say go with a dual plane intake and an edelbrock 600 series.
For a car that is strictly track driven, I'd say single plane and holley double pumper, since you'll be revving the **** out of it.

 

You can get a cheap borescop fro Oreillys for $30. to stick down the plug hole to get a better idea of what pistons you have, right compression is important. A good dual plane with those heads will outperform the Torker used is fine. HEI without all the NSD is a good move too you just dont need it. I love a mechanical only dist with a good thought out curve. Running a lot more cam and still dont lock it out, love it. Killer manners and power to boot without killing the starter. The curve kits that come with MSD suck I sent mine to Bob Jennings in North Hills ca. Old timer with the ancitent Sun machines car runs better than I ever could have gotten it myself best $80 I ever spent.

 

cuisinartvette I was just looking and reading up on what exactly you just posted. a mech advance seems to be the best way to go with all that cam im running. get good timing at idol with out the vac advance jumping around because of the bump from the cam. my bro use this car in the 80tys for street racing and drove it all over the place. he only put about 1000 miles on the build. its in my shop running great right now im geting it ready for paint. my bro cant remember the exact cam specs so its a mystery for now but he said it drove decent in traffic and love to be wound up and shifted at about 7000 when racing.he was a mustang eater back then.lmao i cant wait to drive it. gona baby it for a while then take it for a run. i have never run a vac advance carb before the only reason its on there cuz it was free and brand new.

 

If this is a street car I would strongly advise against removing the vacuum advance. Setting up the curve on a distributor machine is a great idea though. Even a big cam can be tamed with an excellent advance curve. I have done this and the car's manners were like night and day compared to my attempt at designing a smooth curve. That engine was built around the same time yours was and I used a crower cam. At the time crane was running the game and a high percentage of built engines were running crane cams. Lunati and crower were less popular choices because of cost but were excellent grinds for the time!
I would have to recommend getting a degree wheel and a dial indicator and specing the cam yourself. In lieu of that, go with the Holley 650 d/p and an air gap rpm and a good advance curve set up and never look back.
the standard trans is fine with a bigger cam and 50 cc larger on a carb won't hurt a thing where you're at. The double pumper will give you more seat of the pants kick and won't use any more gas as long as you drive sanely. When you step on it, that's a different story!
I have run similar combos to this and was delighted with them. Just watch the total advance and approach it carefully, 36-38* all in by 3000 rpm should be real close for an 882 head setup, but sin e you don't know your actual c/r, approach that from 32* and move up 2* at a time and listen hard for detonation on a hard high gear pull (a slight hill and a hot day are best for a baseline).
once you barely detect detonation, back off the overall timing about 3* and drive it for a while. Always use the same gas when possible, and start with at least premium 92 octane gas. You can back off on the timing and octane to vet an economy tune after you're sure the motor is ok. Detonation (ping) is what kills motors. Always stay 3-4* below detonation because you can't hear all of it. That's why they make knock sensors.

 

Thanks sleeper thats solid advice. Im not gona do anthing drastic untill its on the road timing wise. First im gona check to see how much vac i am pulling at idol then drive it to break it back in. I also have different springs that came in my kit. It can make my timing come in faster and if thats not a problem then im gona make a few runs and see if the 600 can hang. If not and its not a timing issue then my all time fav carb the 650dp will go on. I like the 650 because its good for street like you said and i love to tinker. To small is better than to big at least thats what ghe ladies tell me. Lol thanks yall. Once im swaping intakes i will degree the cam and see how much lift is there i may as well the valve covers will be off anyway. Does any one know the math to get the best results i forgot and have only done that once.