I will shortly be working on my 88 LB9 WCT5 project this spring. It ran really well with a light smoke on start and take off. But then my pinion gear went on the 3.45 :/ and since it wasn't drivable any more, I decided to put it away and fix her up......Not a mechanic, just a do it yourself-er thats mechanically inclined

So far I have this in mind:

Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild kit from Summit Racing (CSMHP749-000) $369.97 The kit includes: Hypereutectic Aluminum flat top pistons. Piston Rings. Bearings and Main bearings. Cam bearings. Gaskets. High Volume oil pump. Freeze plugs.

Comp Cam Complete cam Kit from Classic Industries (222010D) $709.99 The kit includes: 1200-5500rpm range 264/274 Dur .480/.480 Lift Cam . Lifters. Springs w/ locks, retainers, and seals. Timing chain and gear set. (Recommends Modded Computer)

Comp Cam 1.6 Magnum Rocker Arm Kit from Jegs (rpm1418-16) $291.99 This kit comes with the 1.6 Rockers and a set of Pushrods.

My questions are:

Any other parts necessary for a good/great rebuild?... i.e all New Valves, Valve Guides (Do these heads have guides or are they integral?), and Timing Belt Tensioner.

Better deals out there? Are the parts I've chosen compatible with each other and the 305? (I think they are, Im pretty sure they are)

Any problems that you guys or gals may see me running into? With the lift I am running, is my Piston to valve clearance problematic?

Question about compression. Higher compression or the 9.3:1 stock compression? The rebuild kit's approximate compression ratio is 8.39:1 w/ a 64cc Head. My understanding is I have 58cc heads. How does this affect my ratio? If compression isn't adequate, what is the best way to get the needed compression? Decking? Gasket? Head Work? Aftermarket Heads?

Any suggestions on other upgrades to my project? Any and all is welcome Thanx .... Other performance mods being done are Shorty Hooker Headers w/ y-pipe to a nice (probably the flowmaster tuned system) exhaust system. I am having DTS rebuild the 9bolt to better then new Then in the not to far future Edelbrock High Flow TPI Set and Edelbrock Valve Covers.

 

If you're going that far into it, it would be good to send the block and heads out to get checked and likely machined (bore the block, new guides in the heads, etc).
You dont have a timing belt, so no tensioner to worry about.
You shouldn't have any issues with piston to valve clearance.
Off the top of my head, with that rebuild kit and those heads, you'll be sitting around stock compression. The best way to increase compression is to get different pistons.

Now the question that everyone else will throw out there. If you are putting all this money into your engine, why not just get a 350? I figured I'd get that question out of the way now lol.

 

Yep I was going to have the local machine shop fully recondition and check my block, heads, and crank.

....Ahh the big 350 question Well three main reasons i don't want to go 350 because:

I'd have to upgrade to a new trans and a new 10 bolt rearend. My understanding is that the T5 and even the WCT5 can't handle the extra torque and horses. Along with the BW 9 bolt.

This car is a 88 GTA convertible with the LB9 WCT5 and is numbers matching right now. I don't know exactly how rare it is, but I've only seen one other on the internet.

With it being convertible; the GF, friends, and family don't want me to go crazy

 

Compression questions:
Does this combonation of parts need a higher compression ratio?
Should i try to increase the compression to achieve better power?
Leave as is and a tune will do just fine?

 

Im am also looking into replacing the valves since the motor has 150k plus on her and the whole motor will basically be worked over.

I have my good eye on a Manley Intake 1.94 head/.3415 stem set from Jegs for $74.99. And matching Manley exhaust 1.50 head/.3415 stem set for $84.99

My questions are:
My understanding is that my OE intake valve has a 1.84 head diameter. Will the local machine shop have any problems machining the .10? If doable, how will this affect my performance +/-?
.... if not possibe to go with the 1.94 intake valve, i have seen 1.84 intake valves.

And the stem diameter, that'll need some machining as well to accommodate the extra .005? Will there be any problems machining the guide?

Thanx for any Info on this thread

 

you can put bigger valves in those heads and have the seats cut to accommodate the bigger valves but you wont see any gains in performance unless you open up the bowl area under the valve

 

Thanx for the info.

Ill have the machine shop do what they do and have them port and polish the heads so i can wake up my LB9 breathing.

So I am wondering now, how many more horses will all this work put out? Im not expecting too big of gains, but for sure a healthier 305

Im setting up a race with the GF's dad. He's a mopar fan, and I'm running his 71 340 Duster. Its a beast , but I said he'll have to give me two car lengths to make it a good race. Its all for fun anyways. Neither one of us is the fastest in our car group

 

Now deep into the project, I dont regret the choice to keep my 305. But I do constantly think of a nice 350 or LS swap.

Still looking for a guess on what kinda power my build will produce. Im just getting antsy I guess

....I have my good eye on a very nice 84 Trans Am. Built the right way with a built 350 w/ 450+hp, auto trans, and a 10 bolt. This would be a weekend night race catcher