I'm planning on buying my first Camaro this Sayurday and I'm pretty excited. But the thing is, the guy who posted it on craigslist, said it can't be driven home :/. Is that exhaust system he has on it even loud? My friend has a glass pack on his GMC and he says that the system the guy has listed sounds like a van. Anyway here's what the post on CL says...

1988 RS CAMARO 2 door has true dual exaust, flowmaster muffler, long tube hooker headers, 700r4 trany, 350 smallblock 4 barrel carb, new headliner, seats are re-upolesterd, very staight body woudnt need much to finish paint work, the oem color is burgundy red the car is primed and finished sanded. The car has the stock aluminum wheels back on the car, oem rear spoiler comes with car. Has been setting for some time, wouldnt take much to clean up. Engine runs, backfires thru carb when accelerating hard sound like maybe valve sticking. Sorry no trades. Asking 1200

 

Where do you live? What state? Do you have to smog your cars? The engine must be a transplant because the only 1988 Camaro to come with a 5.7 /350 is the IROC-Z and that was TPI. If you have to smog you will have a problem with the visual inspection at the very least. Link = https://www.thirdgen.org/1988-chevy-camaro
If the engine runs and the rest of the car is sound then there’s no reason not to take it for a short test drive. .At least around the block.You can even let him drive. If you just put it on a trailer/flat bed tow truck and take it home there's no telling how it will act on your first drive.
If you have to tow it be sure to use a "drive on" trailer or "drive on" flat bed tow truck. If you tow a 700r4 with the rear wheels on the ground you will damage it. The reason that the tyranny would be fried is that pump runs off the input shaft...if the driveshaft is spinning but the motor isn’t running its cooked IN SHORT ORDER....
Side note = when I moved mine for the first time I had to get a one day driving permit from DMV.
Just take your time and do whats necessary for the move. If your uncomfortable in any way than bring someone that knows what to look for when buying a car.

 

That could be something simple like the #5 and #7 plug wires are mixed up.

 

Won't let you drive = don't buy. Unless its an obvious reason (no engine, no wheels, blown up _____), there's no good reason it cant be driven at least down the road and back.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm from Missouri and I'm going to Springfield to look at it. 80 miles from where I live. He was in a hurry when I talked to him on the phone. A friend of mine said he will help me fix what needs fixed but I'm guessing its a bent pushrod. I'm goining to offer him $700 because I still have to paint it and rebuild the engine. -.-

 

I wish I had that deal. I'm wanting to swap my 305 H.O for a 350 TPI.

I bought it as a project though for school so I could swap the motor for a 350 TPI set up.

Be straight up and ask why he doesn't want the car to be driven. Either he's gonna be honest or lie to someone who came 80 miles to come see it.

 

Wow some of you guys need to learn how to read. He said it couldn't be driven home not that it can't be driven.

Anyways... if the description is accurate and the body/interior is in good shape then it is worth the money he is asking. Look for rust on the floor boards, rear quarters, and in the area that holds the spare tire. If it is a basket case then I would walk away unless you can get it for dirt cheap.

 

That's a good point.

 

worst comes to worst you have a good body with bad motor or trans. best case the guy knows crap and cant fix it. bought my 87 IROC-Z for $400 with the original 305 tpi the distributor cap rotor and ignition control module was fried $200 later one slick 87

no offense to body guys but most don't know about mechanical issues. just because you change oil doesn't mean you know cars.