I figured I would do a beginning to end build thread for the new bullet going in my car this spring, It's currently in a shortblock form. But should be nearing completion in the next 2-3 weeks.
New block:


New Rods


New 3.75" stroke crank


PSI CT1540ML valve springs


Xceldyne ti retainers


ATI damper


Installed some ARP main studs in the new block and checked the align bore.


Did a half fill in the block




Scored a nice set of CFE/BMF 248cc 18 degree heads

 

Xceldyne belt drive



Lil John Motorsports spec'd solid roller. 261/265 @ 0.050", 0.682"/0.682", 115+4 LSA



New ferrea comp plus 2.180" intake valves, 1.600" Super Alloy exhaust valves.



Crower High seat offset solid roller lifters



Dan olson drysump pan



Barnes drysump pump



Accel billet cam sync dist



T&D shaft rockers with new 1.6 ratio exhaust rockers



Custom diamond hard anodized dished pistons. Inboard forging, top ring is 0.300" down, crown thickness is 0.250", and the have a 2.25" long 0.927 x 0.250" H13 tool steel pin.

 

What is your target hp for the build? Subscribed

 

Balancing the crank





Checking the rotating clearance on the block





Clearancing block and belt drive so it sits flush.





Rods and pistons assembled and rod bearing clearance done. Rod and main bearings are Calico coated Clevites.





Machining the block



Block work done, washed and ready for assembly



Installing cam bearings



Block masked up and painted

 

Main bearing clearance done. Ready to install the crank.





Belt drive assembled, and camshaft degreed.





Checked brow clearance and piston to valve. over 0.080" brow clearance, and around 0.300" exhaust PTV, and over 0.200" on the intake.





File fitting the rings. top and second ring gapped at 0.030" as per total seal.



Shortblock done!!! This is as up to date as it gets currently, but more progress will be posted.

 

Id like to make over 1100RWHP.

 

Ah, the thrill of cubes and boost. Can't wait for more details.

 

Awesome! but I noticed a few things:

No disrespect, especially if you are the builder, but is that an OEM block? Hard to tell from the pictures. I see the splayed mains, but I was looking for the Dart or World logo on the casting then I see you are using block filler which makes me assume this is a stock block after all. Why?

At that power level even with block filler a stock block is going to be the weakest link, especially the block deck at the heads studs when subjected to extreme boost. (the deck will crack at the studs or between cylinders) You can't get the cement in those areas unless you do a full fill. An aftermarket block will have thicker a deck and blind tapped holes for the head studs.

is this a track only car? even with the short fill you may have problems on the street with overheating.

Are you documenting the build, or is this your own shop?
it must be nice to have all the necessary equipment at your disposal.


Thanks for sharing !

 

Should have it lol. You already know my setup and you got more heads cam and turbo than i do

I went .026/.028 gaps in my rings. Seems to be good so far

 

Not sure what block he is using either, but If I'm not mistaken.....those are some serious parts going in it!! 18 degree heads, shaft rockers, dry sump...I'm guessing this isn't a street car?

Block kinda looks aftermarket to me....might be a SHP?

 

Its an shp

 

belt and suspenders with the short fill.

 

I'm a winner...ding-ding-ding! Wild guess....really. I probably would have never known if I didn't have one. The rough looking cast outside looked too rough to be a stock block to me...

 

It would still be wise to strengthen it lol these blocks reallly arent suppose to go that high

 

Well, yours is...and it's holding so far....right?

 

Key words- so far but its only seen dyno pulls at full power. Few quick street runs at 800whp

 

In a weird way...were kinda in the same position...calundrum if you will....

In my case, I was pushing smaller amounts of boost in a stock OEM 400 block with iron heads....I was a bit intimidated to let it loose when I was far away from my house...the towing bill would be sky high!!!

Then I see you pushing huge boost through an aftermarket SHP block designed to handle 6-700 HP...street tuning it to 750ish or so....but I think you're in better shape with the SHP.....I see these Ford guys pushing over 1K HP on stock bored and stroked blocks. Or are the Ford blocks just that much stronger?

Anyways...I don't want to deter from the OP's post.....makes my Little M build seem like small peanuts looking at the quality parts he's using. I'm a big Crower fan, but I just can't afford most of their stuff...

 

Yes, the block is a SHP. Not overly concerned at this point in time with the block. I am currently limited by turbo size. and yes, this is VERY MUCH a street car.

 

Looks like a stout build...I would imagine it needs to be with the amount of boost you're gonna throw at it.

If it's a street build, me thinks you're gonna have your hands full keep'in it between the ditches!!

 

Should be fun I think. I wanted to piece together something strong, but budget minded shortblock wise. I fully intend on doing a stronger bottom end this winter, but just wanted to get my feet wet this year with the turbo combo. I've done as much as I can to make it live at these power levels, and as I said before I am not to concerned at this moment. With the main studs and short fill it's a hell of a lot stronger then before. and with the drysump I have very good control over my oiling system. To those who asked, I am doing this all myself

 

Mocked up my crank trigger/drive mandrel and pulleys for the drysump pump last night.



also got a 3d drawing of my new billet intake. This gives a pretty close idea of what the finished product will look like.

 

Killer build. Will be a Fun handful. That intake is gonna be a piece of Art. Who is doing the CnC work on it?

 

Chapman Manifolds is machining the intake for me.

 

cant wait to see how this turns out. I wanted to do a 15/18 deg head type build but settled for what I thought would be a standard valvetrain 23 head but needed shafts anyway... Wish I would have went bigger.

 

Oil pan sealed up and O-ring wires installed



Valve job cut.


Blending the valve job, and cleaning up some of the CNC porting.


Ready for heads.


I wanted to see how the headers fit, so I dropped the heads on and bolted them up. Should clear with no issues in between my strut towers.

 

Heads are on!

 

Exhaust springs on, Rockers and pushrods installed, pushrods are a Trend 3/8" 0.135" wall 7.00" effective length. Valves set, plugs gapped. Basically ready to set into the car.

 

Badass

 

That's an understatment!
I hope to be able to see this monster in person this summer. I'll be in Edmonton for the month of June.

 

You're more then welcome to come check it out!

 

Nice looking build.

 

Starting converting the intake for EFI...











Intake elbow ported for the Wilson 95mm throttle body.



Intake port work roughed in.



Anti-roll bar ready to bolt in.



Finally got all the correct bolts and spacers for the front drive mandrel, crank trigger and alternator and got all that mounted aswell.

 

Bungs welded in



Starting to machine for the injectors



injectors bungs machined. These are the Bosch 160lb/hr injectors I am going to run.





Fuel rails stands fit and welded on



Made some more progress on the intake porting, the plenum is nearly done.





Rails bolted on.

 

Nice work you got a LOT of coin wrapped up in that one

What did that belt drive set you back, liking it.
Was going to get the Jesel yrs ago just too rich for my blood.

 

It was around 1000$

 

Intake sealed up





Fuel system done

 

following this build!

 

love the coil placement.