L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
Hello I have an 88 formula 350 with 89,xxx it is smoking like a chimney at idle and start up. I’m going to replace my valve guide seals but my question is since i am going to be in there would I be better off throwing a head on it with new valve springs, retainers, keepers, valve guide seals. There are so many part options out there and I just don't have enough knowledge to know what parts work together and what I would need to replace if I had a certain part. I was thinking of calling a machine shop and having them build the head for my car but from my reading the l98 heads are not very good unless u have them machined and then still if you got a different brand head it will outperform it. If I do springs I don’t know what size I would need and if I would need to change the cam if so what cam to go with. Soooo forum friends what would be my best options and best idea to go with????
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Re: L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
I'd suggest, leaving the heads that are there, there; and just changing the seals, springs, & hardware. Maybe add roller rockers.
L98 heads are pretty decent, as stock heads from before Vortecs go. Without MANY other changes, there's not a lot to be gained by just swapping heads anyway, especially as long as TPI is on there choking whatever else comes after.
A better place to start any "modding" would be the exhaust. A set of GOOD QUALITY headers, CERAMIC COATED, a new cat, and any of the various aftermarket cat-back systems to suit your taste, would be the very first alteration you should make.
L98 heads are pretty decent, as stock heads from before Vortecs go. Without MANY other changes, there's not a lot to be gained by just swapping heads anyway, especially as long as TPI is on there choking whatever else comes after.
A better place to start any "modding" would be the exhaust. A set of GOOD QUALITY headers, CERAMIC COATED, a new cat, and any of the various aftermarket cat-back systems to suit your taste, would be the very first alteration you should make.
Re: L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
Do you know a good brand and the specs i should go with for the springs, rockers, ect.. and i plan on replacing the intake haha what is a good part to replace it with?
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,819
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
Anoybody's entry-levl 1.25" spring will work fine: Comp 981 for example, or the equivalent from Lunati, Crane, or Crower. Even the "Z28" springs would be OK. The Comp retainers and other hardware is usually the easiest to get and works fine on any of the springs in question.
Use the "positive" type seals like these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72861/overview/ Don't bother with "umbrella" type, and don't bother to put the stock O-rings back into the retainers.
Replace the stock retainers and keepers. Throw away the oil "hat" things on top of the springs, and the "rotators" on top of the exh springs. Set the installed height to 1.700" - 1.725" on all 16 (will take about .090" more shim under the exh springs to get that).
Not sure who has narrow-body rockers that will fit the center-bolt valve covers these days. Crane used to have some but they were aluminum; best to avoid ANY aluminum ones for street use. The cheaper Comp steel ones are perfectly fine except that you'll have to crush the tube things because they won't fit down in between the rockers.
Use the "positive" type seals like these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72861/overview/ Don't bother with "umbrella" type, and don't bother to put the stock O-rings back into the retainers.
Replace the stock retainers and keepers. Throw away the oil "hat" things on top of the springs, and the "rotators" on top of the exh springs. Set the installed height to 1.700" - 1.725" on all 16 (will take about .090" more shim under the exh springs to get that).
Not sure who has narrow-body rockers that will fit the center-bolt valve covers these days. Crane used to have some but they were aluminum; best to avoid ANY aluminum ones for street use. The cheaper Comp steel ones are perfectly fine except that you'll have to crush the tube things because they won't fit down in between the rockers.
Re: L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
man you know your stuff! thank you im going to order these parts asap!
Anoybody's entry-levl 1.25" spring will work fine: Comp 981 for example, or the equivalent from Lunati, Crane, or Crower. Even the "Z28" springs would be OK. The Comp retainers and other hardware is usually the easiest to get and works fine on any of the springs in question.
Use the "positive" type seals like these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72861/overview/ Don't bother with "umbrella" type, and don't bother to put the stock O-rings back into the retainers.
Replace the stock retainers and keepers. Throw away the oil "hat" things on top of the springs, and the "rotators" on top of the exh springs. Set the installed height to 1.700" - 1.725" on all 16 (will take about .090" more shim under the exh springs to get that).
Not sure who has narrow-body rockers that will fit the center-bolt valve covers these days. Crane used to have some but they were aluminum; best to avoid ANY aluminum ones for street use. The cheaper Comp steel ones are perfectly fine except that you'll have to crush the tube things because they won't fit down in between the rockers.
Use the "positive" type seals like these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72861/overview/ Don't bother with "umbrella" type, and don't bother to put the stock O-rings back into the retainers.
Replace the stock retainers and keepers. Throw away the oil "hat" things on top of the springs, and the "rotators" on top of the exh springs. Set the installed height to 1.700" - 1.725" on all 16 (will take about .090" more shim under the exh springs to get that).
Not sure who has narrow-body rockers that will fit the center-bolt valve covers these days. Crane used to have some but they were aluminum; best to avoid ANY aluminum ones for street use. The cheaper Comp steel ones are perfectly fine except that you'll have to crush the tube things because they won't fit down in between the rockers.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Aloha, Oregon
Car: 1991 Christine Z28
Engine: RV Cam and Intake 350 SBC
Transmission: 5speed
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Re: L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
Make sure you get 1.5 rockers. 1.6 will require you to get longer pushrods.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
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Re: L98 Engine work... valve guide seals and such!
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