armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I picked up a pair of 062 vortec heads complete minus the rocker arms. The guy I bought them from said they're good he just upgraded to some better aftermarket heads. Is there any need to take these to a machine shop? If so what would I need to have done? Also is it worth the money for roller tip rockers? Not 100% sure on cam but I was thinking lt1 or lt4 which I know I'll need better springs for.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Define "need".

Is there any "need" to build an engine at all?

If there is, why would you NOT want to make the finished product any less than the best it can possibly be?

At the very least, you should have them cleaned up and a new valve job. That's where they re-finish the sealing surface of the valves and their seats, to retain all the energy produced by combustion in the cylinder for as long as possible so that it does the most work as possible, instead of letting power and money escape out the exhaust or worse, letting it revert back into the intake and pollute the next charge of air/fuel.

Wouldn't hurt to consider valves that are hard enough that you can't scratch em with your fingernail, like stock ones. They're not all that $$, and make a HUGE difference to the longevity of the engine. Consider http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-10576-8/overview/ and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-10549-8/overview/.

Additionally, it's a great time to throw the weenie stock valve springs in the trash and put something better on there. LSx springs with the "special" retainers for 11/32" valve stems, such as Comp 787, are a wonderful choice.

No, roller tip rockers aren't really "worth" the price, except that at least if they're made out of something better than stamped sheet rubber, at least they might consistently transfer cam motion into valve motion. For example you DO NOT want anything like these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-141506/overview/ because they're so flexible and inconsistent. But by the time you spend enough money to get rockers that don't bend, the cost difference in going to roller trunnions as well, which will lower your oil temp by around 10° at least, isn't all that great. I'd suggest the less expensive Comp steel ones, or Crower steel ones; NOT aluminum, for the street.

Why would you limit yourself to stock cams?

Is this going in/on a factory roller block?

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

It's going in my 2 rms block I posted another thread about in the engine swap section. I do plan on upgrading the cam but this is a learning experience for me so I'm still trying to learn what I can before deciding on parts. In that case I will take the heads to a machine shop. I'm assuming it being a 2 rms it's not set up for a roller cam?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That would be correct: the RMS design change came a year or 2 before roller cams were introduced.

Which means, to use any LTx cam, you'd have to use "retrofit" roller lifters, such as these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-853-16

jokerZ71

The heads need to be magged to ck for cracks.Even tho they may have came from a completely good running engine,they can still have cracks.Retorquing for installation can cause them to rear an ugly head.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I've been reading up on Flat tappet vs roller cams and obviously roller is better but this is what I have. Can anyone recommend a flat tappet cam? Nothing to serious I'd just like more power than whatever in it now and a noticeable lope wouldn't hurt.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I know I replied to some of your other questions, but can't remember what you are going with engine wise. Are you keeping the stock dish pistons, or are you gonna buy a rebuild kit?

The cam needs to match the compression of engine but I will say cams in the 214/226@.050" range with around .440" / .480" lift, 110 or 112 lsa works really well with milder 350 builds using vortec heads

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I've decided to keep the shortblock as is since I heard it run. They've got 4 valve reliefs not sure if they're factory or if it's been bored. I will be upgrading springs and valves.