Stiff Pedal
Stiff Pedal
Im new to your Forum. I just bought a 87 IROC 5.7. Car has 33K orig miles. It has a very stiff pedal. Can anyone help me? The local Chevy dealer just kinda said "Oh just live with it, You know how these cars were built in the 80's"
Thx Larry
Thx Larry
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 5
From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Rebuilt 350 going in after paint
Transmission: WCT5, 7k & counting behind the 350
Axle/Gears: 4thgen disc rear w/ 3.73 Posi
Re: Stiff Pedal
First off, which pedal is it? Gas, brake, or clutch?
Each one will have its own list of potential causes.
If it's the gas pedal, start by disconnecting the cable from the throttle body. If it feels better, it's likely caused by binding due to misalignment when connected to the TB. If it's the same, the steel cable could be frayed inside the plastic sleeve, or full of crud.you can also disconnect it behind the pedal and check for a rusted or sticking pivot on the pedal.
If it's the brake or clutch, remove the Eclip holding the rod to the pedal and test it. Also check the for rust on the pivot pins. Check the alignment of the rod when you disconnect them. They should be able to move in and out in a straight line.
For a hydraulic clutch pedal, loosen the bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the bellhousing and test the pedal. Don't push it very far, or you run the risk of pushing the rod out of the slave cylinder and ruining it. Or at least making a nice puddle in the floor.
For a mechanical linkage clutch pedal, check the linkage and Z bar under the car for rust and crud you'll also want to check the adjustment in the linkage to make sure it's not maxed out.
For the brake pedal, unbolt the master cylinder from the vac booster and test it. If it's still stiff, the rod is binding, or your booster is bad internally. If it works fine, the master is bad, or you have a blocked line or stuck caliper/wheel cylinder.
Whatever you do, avoid that dealership like the plague. They obviously don't know anything about these cars, or don't give a rats tail end about customer service. Best bet I'd to find a small local garage, preferably with someone working there who is old enough to have worked in these cars when new, or even owned a few.
Each one will have its own list of potential causes.
If it's the gas pedal, start by disconnecting the cable from the throttle body. If it feels better, it's likely caused by binding due to misalignment when connected to the TB. If it's the same, the steel cable could be frayed inside the plastic sleeve, or full of crud.you can also disconnect it behind the pedal and check for a rusted or sticking pivot on the pedal.
If it's the brake or clutch, remove the Eclip holding the rod to the pedal and test it. Also check the for rust on the pivot pins. Check the alignment of the rod when you disconnect them. They should be able to move in and out in a straight line.
For a hydraulic clutch pedal, loosen the bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the bellhousing and test the pedal. Don't push it very far, or you run the risk of pushing the rod out of the slave cylinder and ruining it. Or at least making a nice puddle in the floor.
For a mechanical linkage clutch pedal, check the linkage and Z bar under the car for rust and crud you'll also want to check the adjustment in the linkage to make sure it's not maxed out.
For the brake pedal, unbolt the master cylinder from the vac booster and test it. If it's still stiff, the rod is binding, or your booster is bad internally. If it works fine, the master is bad, or you have a blocked line or stuck caliper/wheel cylinder.
Whatever you do, avoid that dealership like the plague. They obviously don't know anything about these cars, or don't give a rats tail end about customer service. Best bet I'd to find a small local garage, preferably with someone working there who is old enough to have worked in these cars when new, or even owned a few.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 5
From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Rebuilt 350 going in after paint
Transmission: WCT5, 7k & counting behind the 350
Axle/Gears: 4thgen disc rear w/ 3.73 Posi
Re: Stiff Pedal
I don't think the normal parts chains carry them, but it's worth a call at least. You might get lucky and be able to the costs of shipping. If they don't have one, I'd try rockauto.com next. They carry a lot of stuff the big stores don't. If they don't have it, then your stuck with either a junkyard, TGO classifieds, or EBay.
Re: Stiff Pedal
I don't think the normal parts chains carry them, but it's worth a call at least. You might get lucky and be able to the costs of shipping. If they don't have one, I'd try rockauto.com next. They carry a lot of stuff the big stores don't. If they don't have it, then your stuck with either a junkyard, TGO classifieds, or EBay.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,934
Likes: 2,454
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Stiff Pedal
TGO classifieds
Go to this site's home page, you'll find the link there
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






