i starting to work on my car and am curios at what it take to get it there. car will be getting an ls1 for its power plant as soon as i find the right donor car in my area. and will be going with a supercharger i plan on being around 2800lbs my car came with no options so im starting off lighter than most probably. so approximately how much hp dose it take to get our cars there. thanks

 

Good luck getting 2800 lbs. not easy getting a street worthy car below 3100 imo.

In any case lower 9's would take around 550-600 whp at 2800 lbs. 600-650 at 3200-3300 lbs and 700-750 at 3600 lbs. nearer sealevel or so tracks

Guidelines. I did 9.4 at about 700whp in a th400 in 3750 lb sled

 

Thanks for the guidance just what I was looking for. 2800 lbs might be difficult if not impossible to obtain in a street car. But going to do everything I can to get as close as I can to it.

 

If you don't have the motor yet I would get the 6.0 iron block motor. A little more cubes and a lot stronger block.

 

Traction, weight loss, power.

In that order.

 

I run 9.0 at 150 MPH and my car is nowhere near streetable. The easiest way to do it is with a couple of big turbos putting out a lot of boost. Of course you also need an engine and driveline capable of handling all that power plus suspension to help get the traction.

I'm doing it without any power adders and at altitude.

To run in the 9's, you're going to need a full cage which is going to add more weight. My car is completely gutted out and still has a race weight, driver, fuel etc at just over 3000 pounds.

We have a couple of local turbo cars that are real sleepers. Turbo 6.0 engine in an old Fairmont and a station wagon. Drive 3 hours to a track, run 9 second passes then drive home. This is another local car. 79 Zephyr. Twin turbo 6.0. Tips the scales at over 3300 pounds and it's still street legal.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=432473

Last fall he got the car into the mid 7's so a 6.0 with turbos has a lot of potential.

 

This guy makes crazy power now. hehe

 

Boosted ls is the way to go but get a 5.3 or 6.0 truck motor as the base. Put ls1-ls2-ls6 intake in.

 

boost!! if you try to do it NA, you're gonna end up with a trailer queen, not a street car cuz its gonna have ZERO manners all motor. My motor pulls 16" of vacuum at idle with no choppiness and i've been 10.60@131mph on 8psi with a crap 1.65 60ft...ordered an s60 rear last week so im looking to get into the 9s with 5 or 6psi more at 5400ft altitude.

 

I was thinking on a tv's 2300 and running around 17-19 pounds of boost I love the supercharger whine. with cam forged rods pistons and crank should get me to about where I need to be hp wise. Main reason I wanted to ge a 4th gen car for a donor car is so I can drive it and have some fun in it. while I build my 85 and when the car is ready I'll swap it in.

 

The stock ls1 bottom ends dont do as well as iron truck blocks.

You can maybe make 500-600 whp and live for awhile with a 317 head swap to drop compression. If you buy a 4th gen car i'd keep it as a complete 4th gen car

 

How much do you think it will cost to run in the 9s... ?

A pro-charger is less complicated to install than a turbo simply because there is less plumbing, but it's still not a bolt-on affair.

I know with a SBC you want to use a crankshaft with a BBC crank snout to prevent shearing off the damper / crank pulley.
I am sure the LS engine is a similar affair.

The stock transmission will not live long, behind an engine making that kind of power.
same with the stock rearend, axles, driveshaft, u-joints,

So after you upgrade all that we still have not addressed the chassis, brakes, roll-cage, etc.

Which takes me back to my original question, how much are you prepared to spend?

which leads to

How much of this work can you honestly do yourself (be honest, don't BS yourself)

if you plan to have shop do all this work you are going to spend ALOT of cash..

 

Yeah its not cheap. Definately want to consider a rear end, 2500-3000$ there.
I would do th400 as its cheaper than 4l80e's. Dont need much more than a slight performance rebuild to hold 700 hp. Shouldnt cost more than 1000-1200$
Will want a transbrake and good shifter and 2 step limiter. Tbrake 300-500$ 2 step 100-200$, shifter 200$, good transcooler a must!! Big bar n plate with small fan 150-200$. I run twin coolers lol tbrake gets hot
Good converter 700-1000$
Suspension wise dont have to get too fancy. Lcas and brackets, good street shocks and springs can work fine

Rest is good tire and track prep and power control in the tune.

Motor itself i'd go truck 6.0 if possible and s476-480 turbo or gt45 80mm vsracing unit on the cheap. Will support 600-700 whp and get u low 9's if you can leave hard lol
Thats as cheap as motor gonna get to hold up to the abuse but its all fab work to go turbo. Then u need fuel system. Regular gas 80lb siemens inj are as cheap as it gets that will support the power. Dual intank pumps on hobbs switch.
-8 line

Happy hunting

 

Solid info right there!

 

Winning the lottery helps.

 

thanks for all the info im well aware this will not be cheap in the end. probably around 10k to have somebody build an engine to live through the abuse. i can put it in though. around 8-10k for the supercharger that's installed and tuned. ive been looking and pricing things out for a bit so i know im going to have a lot of money in this car. but its worth it to me ive always wanted a nasty third gen. and no auto for me its a stick only so it will probably be a t56 built up of course. this build will probably take about a year to complete but it will be worth it in the end for me.

 

I would say making 9s and driving 150 mph would take a cage, straps, helmet, and BALL's.
That should do it......

 

If your going with a supercharger, be sure to go with an F1X from Procharger. Plenty of street LSX's running low nines. high eights with them. Video below illustrates this with larger cubes, but then again if you don't have the cubes in the LSX, just up the boost. Weight becomes a factor if your not looking to make as much horsepower to get there, as well as when your drivetrain is not strong enough to support high horsepower, so lighter weight equals lighter load for a less stronger drivetrain. If your planning on a bulletproof engine though, trans and rear, then don't worry about weight. Either way a Ford nine inch rear and 4L80 trans have been proven over and over and over again to laugh at the abuse...

 

Yeah F1 is better bang for buck. D1 can get you lower 9 sec power on the right setup but the F1 leaves room to grow

 

I know the f1 is good but It really has no whine witch I love when you get on it like a tv's 2300. how dose the 2300 perform is it about the same as an f1.

 

I will take the high pitch of the "chopping air" of a centrifugal supercharger or turbo charger over the whine of a roots type blower any day of the week, but that's just me. Other than the youtube hero's we all come across, most Magnuson's that I see need nitrous to help get them into the low 9's. They make excellent mid range power, so cam it appropriately, and if an auto, be sure to find it's sweet spot with the right stall speed...

 

I think the 2300 falls short of an f1 in power but i have seen claims of 700-800 whp with them on bigger inch lsx motors

You'll have to turn it hard with the ls1 to reach good boost but the stock comp ratio and possible warm air charge from less efficient air intercooling may not get the numbers you want. Hence 317 head casting swap

 

I forget how much Frank's GTO weighed when I filmed it back then, but it was heavy, running a roots on the LSX, and some nitrous. He's been much faster since then from what I hear, but I'm sure it took some more nitrous to do it either way...

http://www.streetfire.net/video/franks-gto-iii_687144.htm

 

After all of your guy's input it sounds like I would be better off with a turbo setup. Since the tv's is not going to get me there without nitrous or bigger cubes and still leave room for more if I wanted. And a turbo would probably be better for a mostly street car anyway since I won't hit boost as much so it would easier on the engine. sounds like I need to go look at some turbo kits/setups.

 

just go turbo, won't have to worry about busting off the crank snout and belt issues. I had a d1-sc on a 383 back in 2006ish and between belt slipping issues and just plain tearing them up, i moved on from the blower thing. If you wanted a cog setup from procharger back then, you had to give them an arm, leg, both *****....plus money lol. I don't know what their prices are now but from what ive heard, they're still WAAYY too proud of their ****.

 

The best crankshafts for any sort of blower drive belt will have a double keyway for the drive pulley.

Each type of system has it's own advantage and disadvantage so it doesn't really matter if you go with some sort of blower system or run turbos. Nothing screams horsepower more than a roots blower poking out of the hood however as nice as it looks, it needs to be really underdriven to have good street manners which means it won't run 9's without doing some changes at the track.