Ok guys i gota 90 model iroc and I'm having a issue and I tell u iv about pulled my hair out trying to find someone with a similar case that I can work up what's wrong so here is my ordeal:
When my car gets "hot" like anywhere from 200-220+ degrees it will start stalling out and will eventually die all together and nothing helps iv tried it all iv even stood on the throttle with both feet while it was in neutral and it just continued losing rpms. However if I simply wait a few minutes say about 30 it will crank back up and usually run long enough to get me home. Granted this problem DOES NOT happen if it never reaches this temp in fact the only time it becomes a problem is when I'm in town with several present red lights. I'm on my wit send and I don't have a infinite wallet so I figured what the hell see what y'all can tell me all help is appreciated and I will leave a bullet list below of general additional info about my problem that may be of use:
•only happens when getting "hot"
•rpms begin dropping and it sputters and eventually dies
•when it is sputtering a strong smell can be detected in my exhaust fumes
•I feel like it SUCKS gas down when this happens... In extreme amounts making a trip tht should only consume a few gallons of gas consume a 1/4 tank or more but I can be 100% sure on that
•once I get it home and let it sit for a few hours it will pur like a kitten again no problems in the slightest
•sometimes if this problem occurs I can manage to keep it running at say 1/4 throttle but if I go beyond that it begins stalling but if I keep it at 1/4 throttle it runs like there is nothing even wrong however this only works sometimes
Thanks for the help guys

 

Although there can be other causes , by far the one that most fits your description would be the Ignition Control Module , abbreviated ICM in most reference . In fact , just type ICM into the search bar and you will read dozens of posts all asking about the same problem you are .

PS , although autoparts stores claim to be able to test the ICM , I have seen more than once over the years an ICM that passed the parts store test but malfunctioned in the car when warmed up . And if you do replace it , go to an electronics supply store and get some good thermal paste . the stuff that comes with replacement ICMs is garbage compared to the stuff the computer geeks use .....

 

Oh , and one other thing , in a car with only a 15 gallon tank , a few gallons is pretty close to 1/4 of a tank . Remember that the scaling of the gauge is far from accurate , my car for instance goes a long way from full till 1/2 tank , but then drops from 1/2 to empty pretty quickly ....

 

TPI, TBI or carb?
Sounds like you may be getting a vapor lock issue when the engine gets too hot. The fuel could be "boiling" causing the engine to suck air and not gas.
Other possible issue, if the gas is hot going back to the tank, the heated fuel could be causing the pump to malfunction.

 

Its TPI

 

Ok guys so as and update i did end up replacing the ICM or ignition module and that has not fixed it also idk if it will help but I would also like to add a little note I forgot to mention:
•when the car begins to get around the 220 degree range and whining noise (which I assume to be the fuel pump) will become noticeable and when the car does the stalling thing this whine will change significantly in the tone and sound from a high pitch whine to a higher pitch and when I can keep the car running at 1/4 throttle this whine will return to normal
Like I said this whine only happens when the car gets to running temps or about 220 in that range when I first crank it no sounds please help me how u can guys I appreciate it this problem is embarrassing and quite annoying and it have be frustrated by it to the point where I thought of selling the car but I decided against it in keeping it for better or worse and if it means I have to spend all the money I have available to kill this problem so be it