Hey im helping my friend fix his car, so far the list of issues is:
No start / no crank, I bypassed the ignition circuit by running a 12v source - switch - starter ignition terminal for a temporary fix, but then it cranks, wont start.


I did get it running by spraying fuel into the throttle body, I checked for spark and its good. so leads me to believe its a fuel delivery issue.


couple other issues: the solenoid on top of the charcoal canister gets extremely hot, I checked and it had 27olhms and had 12v constant power supply, I didn't check the other wire for ground though.


when it was running before no start, it would overheat sometimes.


also when I dug into the dash to check ignition wiring there is some sections of wire that need replaced in the wiring harness, I couldn't identify what they where for, but tomorrow-the weekend ill have more time to investigate and do some continuity checks. even take some pictures if I need.


so anyone have suggestions of things to check for the issues, this is my first time working on a Camaro, also its a v6.

 

Definitely a fuel pressure issue, with key on engine off do you hear the fuel pump prime? If not it's either a dead pump or a fuel pump fuse, I'm not sure about v6 thirdgens but on v8 maf cars there is a fuel pump fuse right near the battery, check the fuse and the wiring going to it, the wiring gets brittle and is easy to break when replacing a battery.

Edit: just saw there's also a no crank issue, that's starting to sound like a wiring issue

 

Just did a fuel pressure test, connected gauge and turned ingnition on and after the pump turned off it read 18psi max spec is 13psi, think might check for clogged return lines or check the fuel pressure regulator?

 

i took the return line off at the flexable section i was able to blow air back into the fuel tank, but i couldnt blow air in the other direction toward the throttle body / fuel pres reg. i then disconnected the return line, cycled the key, no fuel came out of the return line but the pressure shot up to 24psi. next on the list is to check the return from throttle body / replace fuel pressure reg.

 

replacing pressure regulator didnt work
im thinking the injectors arent firing cause something with the wiring, think ill tear into the harness and find all the bad wires, anyone have a wiring schematic or a source to get one?

 

Sounds like a vats problem first no crank then you bypassed the ignition and also your injectors arent firing. Is or was your security light on on the dash? Your vats disables the injectors and the starter.

 

hey thanks, i didn't know about that. im now looking into ways to bypass vats if anyone has useful info let me know ive seen people talk about making a bridge wire between 2 wires or plugging a set of resistors in the system.
would this work? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-bypass

 

You can make your own bypass with a piece of 16 ga. wire to jumper the starter relay and a resistor or two from Radio Shack. You need to measure the resistance of the pellets in your original key then get a resistor(s) of equal value to plug into the VATS connector in the steering column. Jumper the connector going back to the dash side and NOT the column side. If you search vats bypass, I'm sure you can find all the info you need to complete the bypass. HTH!


Sorry, you don't even need to jumper the starter relay if you use the resistor method.

 

check IAC valve

 

i have a number 5 key according to http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=41
will this wire be what i plug into?

 

Are you guys jealous?

 

This wire seems to be the only burnt out one in the harness. It's brown and white. It plugged into the right side of the instrument panel. Then split into three wires one of them went to the firewall junction terminal another goes back to the center console - can't tell to what there is evidence of it from left over insulation melted to other wires that leads there. And idk about the 3rd split. A wiring schematic would be really helpful if anyone has one.

 

ok so according to this its terminal 12...

i pulled this from http://www.austinthirdgen.org/?pid=19

 

If your key is a number 5, the resistance needs to be 1130 ohms +/- 50 ohms. Take two 2.2Kohm resistors and connect them in parallel, that will get you 1100 ohms ( 2200 // 2200 = 1100 ). That should get you close enough. If you want to get closer, a 2kohm and 2.7kohm resistor in parallel will get you 1149 ohms. Either of these combinations should work.

 

Found another connection the burnt wire split off into. It plugs into the steering column here it's on the very end. The third section. Past the fire wall the wire routes to the master cylinder. I assume it's brake pressure sensor.

 

Here's the connector the green section belongs to the section I had replaced earlier (I think belongs to the ignition circuit) the red wire I haven't traced yet. i assume its a main power supply wire, why the previous owner has an inch long section of it that's bare and exposed i wont ever know.

 

cool this will help

 

k so got the car running tonight. turns out the small white wires was sheered apart inside the steering column. thanks for the help, ill post update after i get everything together and find out if the overheating is fixed.