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1986 Iroc Z upgrades

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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 12:05 AM
  #1  
Towelie420's Avatar
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From: PHX AZ
Car: 1986 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 :(
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock??
1986 Iroc Z upgrades

My 1986 iroc z has been stock its whole life, rather than toss the pice of crapola out the window i will respect the fact that it has been in the family longer than i have and get the work that it needs done to it to keep it here and decent. it really needs alot of work.

I am going to list all of the issues it has. i will be looking to replace with Mid to high grade PERFORMANCE parts that are new and decently priced, slowly build this thing one steal at a time. I am building to be a everyday/weekend driver. it has a 305tpi auto 700r4 coupe

Please tell me what Parts would be good to put in, and/or what i would expect to pay a shop to have it put in or repaired. all parts must function well under intense ambient air temps.

1. fuel pump

2. rear bearings

3. suspension springs

4. shocks

5. rear brakes--- Going to buy -http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc1482-26 , what do you think?

6. timing (needs retimed)

7. dash- ive been thinking about bondoing the cracks and painting it, and getting a cover, What do you think?

8. carpet

9. thermistat ( what does it mean when you squeeze your top rad hose cold and it clicks

10. rear hatch struts- replaced good used 5$

11. shifter **** (auto)

12. paint gun for CLEARCOAT

13. interior headliner (have foam, no cloth, want to put in a white leather or vinyl?)

14. front windshield

15. AC ( disconnected before i was born, never known what was wrong with it. i figure connect the belt change it an leak check it

16. vacume system- (are there full replacements? i dont think that one vaccume line is truly connected.

17. full service* fuel filters/oil/air

18. 305 engine ( can this block be upgraded and be worth it?)

19. trims (doors fenders windows)

20. seat upholstery (i want white and black leather or vinyl. the only damages are driver seat left mid side arch)

21. emissions (what are the parts that effect emissions? i have always tagged my cars in Wyoming where there is no emission

22. alarm system (maybe keyless entry, remote start?)

23. 350 trans ( is 350t trans direct fit to 700r4?)

24. brake booster

25. sub wolfers ( i have 3000watts whats a good alt)

26. paint ( white base, white bodykit, black stripe over body kit, black door and fender trims, 10% window tint)

27. exhaust - edelbrock heads shorty, flowmaster cat back, chrome tips ( purchased and installed for 1k. )

28. rear axle ( can stock rear axle be upgraded )

29. transmission cooler pan either for 350 or 700r4

30. tires ( i just put basic falcons on it for now, what is a long lasting, mean looking tire for the iroc z rim





THANK YOU FOR ALL THE IDEAS AND ANSWERS TO MY MANY STUPID QUESTIONS!

Last edited by Towelie420; Jul 22, 2015 at 12:52 AM.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 04:47 PM
  #2  
yaj15's Avatar
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From: Northern California - Bay Area
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - full intake & exhaust boltons
Transmission: Bowtie 700r4, 2400 rpm stall
Axle/Gears: Borg-Warner 9bolt, 3.45 gears, posi
Re: 1986 Iroc Z upgrades

What are your goals for the car? That's very important to figure out at the start since that will determine the direction for your project. Do you want a fast street car? Trying to make more of a race car - drag or autocross?

No matter what you do, make sure your car is tuned up and in good running condition. Computer, ignition system, fuel system, etc. all need to be in good working order for max performance and efficiency. I would take a properly running bone stock thirdgen over one that has been improperly modified and not tuned.

Easy performance gains can be made with good headers, high flow cat, cat back exhaust to start with.

On the intake side, you can pick up after market runners, intake and port match the plenum. It's also easy to make a ram air set up by using a dremal tool to cut out the factory baffles on the airboxes. Run some hvac hose from behind the fog lights to the bottom of the airbox lid.

Do you want to keep your car #'s matching? If not it would be easier to make power with 350. Nothing wrong with the 305, it's just a lot easier to make more power with more cubic inches especially when you start upgrading with aftermarket parts.

Unless you just want the th350 I would keep the 700r4. It can be built to take a lot of power has lower 1st & 2nd gear ratios and the 30% overdrive with the lock up converter. If you were making more of a drag racing car the th350 would be a better choice than the 700r4 with it's tighter gear spread but, it doesn't have overdrive. The later th350's did come with lock up converters though. A stalled automatic car is fun to drive.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #3  
Towelie420's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: PHX AZ
Car: 1986 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 :(
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock??
Re: 1986 Iroc Z upgrades

just looking for cheap daily driver with performance parts. want it to be nice highway car able to run in 110* weather, im not looking to make it any kind of a racer its just going to be a driver car I want to keep it sporty 200-400hp able to keep up with the traffic, yeah I am open to 350 swap I just don't really know how to search for the cheap ones that are good. will everything from a 305 convert onto the 350?
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 07:02 PM
  #4  
yaj15's Avatar
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15 Year Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 7
From: Northern California - Bay Area
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - full intake & exhaust boltons
Transmission: Bowtie 700r4, 2400 rpm stall
Axle/Gears: Borg-Warner 9bolt, 3.45 gears, posi
Re: 1986 Iroc Z upgrades

Most things will swap over between the motors. The important thing is to match components. TPI's long tube runner set up is designed to increase low and midrange torque. Matching the intake, heads, cam, and other parts to the idle-5,000rpm or 5,500rpm range will be the ticket. The ZZ4 crate motor cam is a nice cam for street performance. There are a lot of other choices out there though. If you have to do any emissions testing keep that in mind when you make mods as well.

The difference between the 1985 LB9 motors with 215hp and the 1986 LB9 motors is the cam. GM installed the LG4 cam in the 1986 LB9's and that resulted in a loss of power to 190hp. That was thanks to fuel economy and emissions requirements. At the very least install a cam with a similar profile to the 1987-1992 L98/LB9 5-speed cam to get some of that performance back if you end up keeping the 305.

Stock stall is really low, around 1,500rpm. A lot of cars also got 2.73 high way gears. With TPI cars 3.42 gears are a great performance swap. That gear set combined with a stall in the 2,200rpm-2,500rpm range will really wake the performance up.

You'll also want to look in to getting a custom chip made for your application to get the most out of your mods and make the car run right. Most of the bolt on intake and exhaust changes the computer can handle so long as it's not to extreme. When you change the heads and cam that's when you really need a tune specific to what you are running.

Last edited by yaj15; Jul 22, 2015 at 07:10 PM.
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