Was trying to remove my intake manifold today in order to change the gaskets. Unfortunately I got a bit stuck on a couple of bolts. The ones nearest the carburetor 'turret' are partially blocked from access with a socket set by their inward angle and the carb turret. I could remove all but the one nearest the EGR inlet using a spanner instead, but that still left me pondering how I was going to properly torque up the bolts when reinstalling, as I'll need to get access using a socket and nothing I have fits.

Can anyone recommend a tool for accessing the bolts, or will I have to buy another 9/16th socket and cut it down?

Car's an 85 305 L69, stock intake manifold with a qjet on top.

Thanks for any help/advice/pointing and laughing...!

 

Hmm.. well I have a TBI but I believe the intake manifolds are shaped almost identically besides the ports above the throttle body.

I believe that when I took mine off I just used a wrench on the bolts that I couldn't fit a socket on. I may possibly have used a swivel wrench (I have some Kobalt swivel ratcheting wrenches.)

When I went to torque them on, the ones I couldn't fit a socket around, I just guessed the torque on them when I tightened in the sequence. I know it's not the best thing, but I've read that several other people have done that also. Remember to torque down the manifold in three stages!

 

I use a crows foot on mine. If you've never seen one, it's basically just the wrench "head" with a square hole on the side for your ratchet to attach. Takes a little getting used to, but works well.

 

Crows foot wrench (spanner), but really I have not torqued a common sbc intake down in over 10 years..

I done it so much I just use my 'calibrated hand'... I have one wrench that I use every time and I can get within 1 ft lb by "guessing" every single time

Now on the vortec style intakes, I do use a torque wrench as they only need 11 ft lbs.. Go over that and you crush the plastic gasket.

 

Crows foot wrench is a good call - I had considered buying a set and maybe I will do now. However, even a crows foot wouldn't get into the bolt by the EGR inlet - I couldn't even get a conventional spanner to fit.

Actually my girlfriend's Dad pulled out an old snap-on box wrench, just as I was packing up for the night, that had thinner walls and I could just get to the bolt using that.

As I'm dealing with an intake manifold leak I'd like to find a way to get it torqued properly, just so I know the job's been done!

 

I'd suggest finding something you can put a bolt in, and torque it with your known-good torque wrench; then come back in right after, and torque it with the wrench that fits, and get a feel for how much torque that is. Do it a bunch of times. Then put the bolt in with the wrench and come back and measure it with the torque wrench. Practice until you're within an acceptable error from perfect.

I.e., calibrate your "biceps dyno". Much like night's description up there. That's how I do it too.

Intake manifold bolt torque just simply isn't THAT critical. It's just a chunk of big dumb cast iron. All you gotta do, is get it tight "enough" to properly crush and hold the gasket; without getting it "too tight", to where the metal distorts. Anything in the 30ish ft-lbs neighborhood (let's say, 25 to 35) is PERFECTLY FINE.

 

Cheers SK - that sounds like a good method.

I was given this equation by UK forum:

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

which I'll take a shot at, but I might try to double-check it using your method.

 

You can also make your job easier by getting some intake bolts with a smaller 6 or 12 point head. Many aftermarket aluminum intakes REQUIRE them because there's so little room in that area.

I've never used a torque wrench on an intake. Feel of the wrench and I also watch the gasket crush and "potato chip" slightly near the pressure points.

 

Potato Chip??

A potato chip's like a crisp, right...?

 

"Two nations divided by a common language."

I think we're talking about the same thing.

What I mean is that the gasket will get a little wave or a slight warp to it and pull away from the flat surface of the head as you torque it down. Not much- it's a subtle thing, but definitely there if you look closely.

 

Ah, OK - I think I know what you mean! I'll look out for it. Should at least give me an idea if I'm getting the torque right.