Today i went to test drive a 86 iroc that i really want to purchase but while driving it had a bucking issue under light acceleration but when i stepped on it the bucking went away. the bucking happened more while going up hill. i want to know what the issue could be and how much it would cost to fix. the price for the car is $13,000 and i don't want to pay that much to rebuild the trany or something like that and have a big issue that will cost even more of my money. would you guys recommend me buying this car or look at another one. so if anyone can help that would be great thanks.

 

It doesn't sound like a serious mechanical problem like a transmission, but there is definitely a problem. Unless the car is nearly mint with almost no miles, $13k is WAAAAAY too much for a 1986. Do you have any pics? Links?

 

the car is actually near mint it was senior owned and has 30k miles here is the link http://newlondon.craigslist.org/ctd/5267581422.html

 

pretty much agree with backtothe80s on what he said.

Somebody else posted a thread a few weeks back saying they had a bucking issue, and I don't remember the specifics but you can try and do a search on here to see if it comes up. The solution I gave to him was based on my experience with my 88 TBI camaro bucking, it ended up being the map sensor was slightly unplugged. I made sure it was fully seated in the plug, and the problem went away. Mine seemed to be under medium acceleration in first and 2nd gear, but I didn't try to go any higher than that until I figured out the issue.

I am not as knowledgeable about this symptom as other people on here though. Could be something like a bushing went bad on something. My transmission mount bushing went bad when one of my rear sway bar end links snapped off and i bottomed out, so now my shifter bounces under medium or higher acceleration in lower gears. I would venture to guess there is some sort of sensor issue here.

 

ok if i take another look at it this weekend i will mention it to the owner about map sensor and maybe that could fix the issue

 

Do you have any pictures or more information on the car? Because $13,000 seems pretty high. If you are willing to pay that much then it is worth that much. Here in the phoenix area, I have seen several low mile original non restored but in great condition listed anywhere from 8-12 grand the last few months. If the car isn't in superb condition, like so good that you would think it was just restored, I would say I wouldn't bother trying to figure out the problem and not buy the car. Either way, if it was a low mileage car and in perfect condition, this bucking issue exists so I wouldn't pay that much until that problem is fixed. The owner might resolve the issue, and then want more money too.

 

That's a gorgeous original car. They are indeed very hard to find in such nice condition. If you really like the car, why not offer 9k, in light of the bucking issues and less-than-mint paint?

 

yea i might offer 9k for the car because of the issue but do you have an idea of what the issue could be

 

the link is the only pictures i have of the car but i might have him try to fix the issue i would pay a little extra for the car too because i can't find many of these cars in near perfect condition in my area

 

I'm willing to bet the car has its original Multec injectors. They are known to cause a lot of different issues and may need replacement. They could be stuck or clogged.

The problem with an original, low mileage car is that it may have a lot of original parts that, despite the mileage, need to be replaced. Time is what kills cars/parts, not so much the mileage.

You could have old spark plugs, clogged fuel filter, air filter, cracked vacuum lines, wiring issues (corroded connectors), etc.

If you like the car, make the offer. The worst he can do is say no. If you have 13k in your budget, then the 4k you save if he takes it would likely fix the problem several times over.

 

thanks for telling me this when i see the owner again i will ask him if any of these things have been replaced or original. i am also going to look at a 88 iroc for $14,000 with a 350 in it this weekend. Is there anything to look out for in a 350 because i see you have a 89 trans am with a 350 and you probably know more things about it than me.

 

As long as the year is the same, the TPI 350 and 305 are almost mechanically identical. Both small block Chevy motors, so they are pretty solid and inexpensive to repair. Most parts are interchangeable. The 305 has 19 lb/hr injectors and the 350 has 22 lb/hr.

Take this with a grain of salt, but I have noticed that high-mileage 305 motors tend to puff a bit of smoke on start up. Typically a valve stem seal/guide issue. I've seen 350s do that less often, but that's just based on observations. YMMV.


If you have a link to the 1988 car, please send it.

 

ok thanks for the info i do have a link to the car but it doesn't have an photos so nothing to look at other than the description http://www.avonautobrokers.com/used/...a628a9673f.htm

 

Thanks. Since it's a dealership, I would lowball the hell out of it. No more than 10K. That's not the kind of car just anyone would buy. If you get pics, send them.

 

Yeah that 88 is more than I would pay also.

I can attest to the valve stem seals being bad and smoking. When I bought my 88 which has a 305 TBI, it blew a little bit of smoke, so I replaced the valve stem seals and it was gone. I have seen tons of the 350's in the trucks smoking, but sometimes it's not the valve stem seals.

What are you looking for personally though? I'm assuming you are looking for an original good condition Iroc or Z28, and have some spending money here. I Think if it came down to the 86 or the 88, I'd probably go witht he 86, because it has a 350. That bucking issue probably won't be too hard to diagnose and won't be too expensive to fix either. Low ball them and see if they bite and go from there. That 88 is at a dealership, and my experience is they will rather hold onto something then let it go for anywhere near what they paid for it, whether it was at auction or a trade from somebody. That's personally what I would do if I was looking for a low mileage good condition original and had money to play with.

 

the thing about the 86 is that the owner said he got it at an auction i was wondering if you know what the going rate is for these cars at auction. thanks for the advice on the 88 too.

 

actually the 86 is a 305 and the 88 is a 350 but i understand what you mean. thanks for the advice

 

Oh, I swore the ad for the 88 said it had a 350. Guess I looked at it wrong. But no matter what you choose, I'm sure you'll be excited. I went the route of getting a project because I needed to learn more and I wanted to make something the way I wanted it. Sort of a sidenote, there's a YouTube video of somebody who bought an 85 or 86 that sat in a trailer for over 20 years and has 9.5 original miles. It looks brand new.

 

no your correct the 88 has the 350. But is the 305 exciting or should i go with the 350. I don't want to mod the car at all because i like to keep things original but what would you suggest getting the 86 with a 305 with30k miles or the 88 with the 350 with 67k miles. I know it's kind of a dumb question but the 88 with the 350 is far away from me and if i was going to buy the car i could only get the car on that day i can't make two trips to get it. I also saw that 85 its amazing how it was just forgotten in a trailer its a beautiful car.

 

If you are asking what is more exciting, it really depends on what you think is exciting. Both are TPI's and the 305 and 350 TPI are very identical, so working on them will be quite similar. As far as power, the 350 definitely has more, and has the ability to make more, but if you are keeping them original, then that shouldn't matter. I have the 305 TBI, and it runs really well. My car looked like it was abandoned at a dump or 20 years and was terribly neglected mechanically and cosmetically, but it still runs great. It's not very powerful, but it sounds decent and I get over 20 MPG on it. TPI is obviously very different than TBI, but the blocks are identical. You should still be able to pull 20 MPG with a 305 TPI. I don't have any knowledge personally on how the 350's drive because I have never driven one. Everything I know (or think I know) about them is from research. Ultimately, it is up to what your preference is. If you aren't looking for a project and want an original good condition car, then I would probably lean towards the 305, especially since you said its a lot closer. I don't think you will be disappointed in either though.

 

thanks for the advice for me right now its like i have to flip a coin because i just can't make up my mind but im sure i will be happy with either car thanks for all the help.

 

an 86 TPI car does NOT have a MAP sensor . they are MAF cars

 

thanks for telling me but im not going to purchase this car im looking at a few others