So I've done a lot of reading to try and figure this out to no avail.

I just pulled the AIR tubes off and capped the exhaust manifold... new wires, plugs, rotor, dizzy. Replaced fuel filter.

Engine will start (and run rough but won't idle) while gas is being poured into top of carb. Also I have pulled the fuel line off at the carb and turned it over- gas comes out. Re-attached fuel line without filter, still no go. (Filter is in right direction.)

Could I have a vacuum problem since I pulled the AIR equip. out? Vacuum lines are part of that system and I don't know the best way to reconnect after it's removal...

My neighbor, who is a decent mechanic, thinks with the deletion of the smog stuff it will never run right unless I get an aftermarket 4 barrel- because there is so much stuff tied to the emissions like an idle solenoid circuit, ECU and O2 sensors, etc. I don't think that's right, as so many folks here seem to have no major problems when they get rid of the smog stuff... I really don't know what to do at this point- any opinions will be helpful..

 

Your mechanic friend is 100% correct , when you delete emission controls your ECM no longer "knows" how to properly feed your engine and bad running results . Folks who do eliminate "all that computer crap" (as they call it) also put a NON computer controlled carb AND a non CC distributor (you'll now need the old style with the vacuum advance can on the side of the dist.) on the engine to eliminate the ECM entirely . The only other way , if you keep the ECM , is to learn how to program the ECM's chips to normalize the running with the missing emissions equipment .

In my opinion , it's always best to either 100% fix the stock setup and run that , or go for a full on delete of all the electronics instead of trying to 'tune around" the various running issues caused by the missing parts .

 

unless there are major vacume leaks or something,should at least idle by itself even with the emissions/ECM system messed up-sounds like float valve might be stuck closed or something else preventing fuel getting into carb.Timing could be way off too.On my '82 Lg4,i was able to get rid of the Whole A.I.R. system(properly plugging of affected vacume ports as needed)and no ill effects-I did keep the canister purge,EGR ,and CCC system working though.Once when an electrical problem cut power to my ECM,car would still run well enough to be quite drivable-idle kinda rough and running very rich though...Is very simple to switch to non-ccc carb and dizzy,but the CCC versions do have benefits if they are working right.Also if your car is automatic,and CCC disabled,a setup for torque converter lock will need installed.

 

Yes , I did mean to , and forgot to include in my post that the removal of only the AIR system shouldn't be enough to keep it from idling . Like the guy above states , there is likely more wrong than just a missing puff of air into the exhaust . Just remember , the more things you remove (AIR , EGR , EVAP , etc) the worse it'll run as the ECM is calibrated to run with all it's inputs and outputs intact . The more you remove , the more "blind" it becomes .....

 

Id get rid of ecm and its headaches. Its not like you are fuel injected and going to an old style carb setup its much simpler to figure problems out and you will make more power. I went that route with my old LG4 and it ran 100% better with the 650 Holley DP.

 

Removing the AIR system will not affect how the ECM controls the air/fuel mixture and timing in any way that is detrimental to the efficient operation of the engine. There is no need to replace the existing carb and distributor unless one or the other is FUBAR.

You will not make more power with a carb/dist swap alone.

Get a set of vacuum caps and place one on each open port of the carb.

Double check your plug wire routing. DO NOT assume they are correct. Trace each one as if someone you don't know installed them. Disconnect each one at both ends and re-install.

Remove your new cap and inspect underneath for scratches and nicks from the rotor possibly hitting it. It is fairly easy to misalign these when installing.

Do not go down the replacement road. You don't need to. Save that $ for something you do need. Your 83 LG4 system is pretty stout and not really smart enough to know the AIR system is missing.

 

Thanks for your feedback guys. It's gotta be the the float valve/ needle stuck closed or something in that area... I'd rather not replace the carb, dizzy, etc. unless they are shot, which I don't think they are. Nor do I want to eliminate the ECR, EGR, EVAP, etc.

Also I will cap the vacuum lines and take a closer look at my wires and distributor...

I forgot to mention that I shot carb cleaner all over the carb before the trouble started.

 

Don't worry about the carb cleaner.

Chase down the things that changed: wires/cap/rotor FIRST

Unlikely to be a float issue. Check whether there is fuel in the carb by opening the throttle completely and observing for the booster shot of fuel into both primaries.

If you see no fuel squirt into the carb, try filling the carb bowl by carefully pouring about 1/2 cup of fuel into the bowl vents on top (each side of the idle air bleed screw). This amount will allow the motor to start and idle for several minutes.

 

Hi naf- I have tried opening the throttle all the way, and I see no fuel shooting into the carb. I also poured fuel into the bowl vents- the engine ran roughly for minute, that was it.

I will play with the wires/ cap/ rotor now....a question if I may... how tight should the rotor screws be? I didn't crush them, but i hope they aren't too tight..

 

with fuel in the bowl vents (unless a good bit was spilled into the throats) the engine should run normally for a few minutes.

rotor screws are likely fine. too tight would crack the plastic and you'd notice.

 

Needle stuck in seat.. Time to learn how to pull the top off the carb.. or swap in a known working spare replacement carb in to confirm..

 

To update, I chased down the wires, disconnected and reconnected all, took of the distributor, rotor off and put back on... no difference. I guess try the old rotor and cap next.

 

though you mentioned in the initial post fuel came out the line when engine cranked,if A.I.R. pump bracket removed and bolts reinstalled in the holes,possible a bolt is too long and binding fuel pump pushrod...probably not the cause,but worth a look...if those bolts have been disturbed-IIRC,only one bolt needs reinstalled.

 

If it runs fine when you manually fill the carb bowl, then dies out, symptom of not getting gas in carb to replenish what it's using, not electrical..

 

HELL YEAH! Well, here's the story... I was considering taking the top of the carb off. Grabbed a torx wrench and put it on the head of a bolt...it seemed kinda loose- hmm... tightened it and went around all 13 of them (cross tightening)- they were all loose! Gave it a try and she started up!

After running for a few minutes, I was able to kick it down to about 750 rpm idle- again it was running fairly smoothly. Then I shut it down.

Then I realized I had left- I think it's the mixture control solenoid- disconnected. I am a dumba$$

Re-connected that and restarted. This time it ran rougher, but the idle quickly went down to 500-750. It was rough though. Maybe I just need to let it cool down and try again later.

 

Congrats, Good to hear, Glad that parts figured out..