how's it going guys, I don't have an fbody but i have a nova with an 86 tpi motor. don't bash me too hard for posting on your site, but you guys seem to know the most about these motors. obviously my car doesn't need to pass emissions so I was wondering how to rid of the egr system. I was told that it's possible to remove it, or leave it on and make sure it doesn't stay in the open position. if I remove it what's the best way to close the hole in the intake? if I keep it how do I ensure it doesn't stay open. thanks for the help and I'm sure there will be alot more questions to come. this fuel injection stuff is completely new to me. jimmy

 

hey man..

from what i've heard, if you have EGR-equipped heads you need to run the EGR..

why wouldn't you run the EGR, anyway? it helps cool intake gases so you can run more timing..

just a thought.. i've been here posting about a TPI swap for my Vega so we're in the same boat

cheers,
Colin

 

just figured it was something extra to take away from the motor. does it route through the exhaust manifolds? I just bought the motor and trans. and didn't pull it out of the vette, so I have no idea how it was before. from what I've seen there are tubes running out of the exh. man. on the f body cars that I thought tied into the egr system. if not what are these for? i have headers and do not have these tubes. there is also an inlet in the rear of the intake, any idea what that is? thanks alot

 

hey man..

the tubes that go into the exhaust manifolds are used by the smog system, yep.. i don't believe that the exhaust picked up by these tubes is reinserted back into the motor.. it all gets linked up with the smog pump and diverter valve setup and then mixed with more oxygen and dumped down a tube towards the cat..

as for the intake manifold and heads, there are passages in the heads that route exhaust gases up into the intake at which point the gas is reinserted by the EGR into the intake mixture to help lower combustion temperatures..

i 'think' that's how it all works

 

thanks colin! guess I'll keep it. got any pics of your car? I'm having the harness made for my car now and they were asking me if I was keeping the egr system. how about the vss? are you using it in your car? heard it was probably best. what are your opinions? appreciate the help.

 

the setup i'm going with is from my friend's old '89 305 IROC that he totalled (got sideswiped by a dump truck... it was very VERY ugly, lol)

here's a shot of my car, it looks pretty bad (paint is shot so there's a bit of surface rust) but the car is a solid California car..

i'm currently gathering money for my engine (see my "Which engine is best" thread here in this forum) and will go from there..

i'm parting out my '86 IROC so I will also have the 4.11s posi rear end with the torque arm provision.. I have a 4-speed saginaw that I'll use temporarily until I get my good engine build (putting the 305tpi in, stock, for now)

don't laugh, my car looks bad but it's pretty good for $500

what are you doing for the computer? I'm using a Corvette computer so that I can put it in the engine compartment (Corvette's were shielded because they weren't under the dash)

regardless, my car is 2200lbs stock, 2400 with the smallblock in it and no more than 2700 with me in it (200+100lbs misc weight)

should be fun if you want you can email me (bopseth@aol.com) and i'll try to help you out as much as I can..





later man,
Colin

 

i'm going with the in car cpu for speed density. the guy that is modifying my harness charges an extra fifty to use the weatherpack under hood cpu. how about your fuel lines done anything with those yet? that's what i'm working on now. called tpis today and got the metric adapter for the fuel rails, that's going to make things alot easier. car looks good, at least it's only surface rust. over here on the east coast rust is real bad! later

 

most speed shops sell egr block off plates, and they usually come with edelbrock manifolds (performers, mine did) , you could try and buy one or find a buddy who bought a performer and dosent use his. or maybe if one fell out of the box at the store...... you get the idea. the point is their avail. for like $5. hope that helps

 

i'm going to modify my fuel tank before i start the swap..

essentially the way that I'm going to do it is:

tack weld a metal box on the bottom of the tank that is about 6" tall and about 6" in diameter... it will have very narrow slots in it and have the return line going into that cylinder..

i'll also have the pickup in there so that as the return line dumps fuel into the cylinder it doesn't overflow the cylinder but also allows fuel to come into the cylinder.. confused? it's hard to describe..

essentially what i mean is that I'm not going to baffle the whole tank, just have the pickup and return line 'end and begin' in the same spot so that the pump doesn't ever starve for fuel

I'm going to rent a fuel line bender from AutoZone and make my own return line, shouldn't be too hard.

To get the lines the correct shape I'm gonna get an 8' long piece of narrow wire and bend it the correct length. I'll bend one line first and then the second as a copy of it. For venting, I'm just gonna vent the tank at the back of the car (gonna do away with the charcoal canister setup and the whole bit).

I've also been toying with a Holley external fuel pump and forget the whole business with the in-tank pump. That might be easier than modifying my existing fuel tank... I guess we'll see when I start on the tank after I have it out of the car.

 

If theres an inlet at the rear of the intake, then it sounds like you have the EGR setup where it gets the exhaust gasses from the RH exhaust manifold and routes it into the intake by the distributor. All you need to take it all off is some blockoff plates. So far I havent had a problem with the computer throwing any codes with it being disconnected.

 

Just a quick question.....

How can exhaust gases that come right outta the heads (very hot) help cool the intake charge?

I don't quite understand that.......

I know that you can put your hand over the tailpipe and feel that the exhaust is not very hot back there.....but if the gases are hot enough to make the headers/manifolds hot enough to melt plug wires.....

then how's that gonna cool any air going into the motor.

I thought it had more to do with reducing hydrocarbons from the un-burnt fuel by recirculating it back into the combustion chamber? Which would also increase fuel milage do to the 'recycling' process, right?

AJ

 

the exaust gasses are hot,yes........but contain very little oxygen. too much oxygen,i.e. lean condition will overheat the **** out of your intake,heads & headers. I have my EGR blocked off using a 3/16" thick triangle shaped piece of aluminum that I cut off the corner of a sign........no,not a street sign!! I bout a new EGR for GM engines that comes with about 300 different sized orifice inserts...later to find out that none of them matched my engine (the L69 EGR is discontinued) so I mounted the new egr to the intake with a new gasket between the egr and plate and one betwween the plate and the intake. the egr looks like it's there,I didn't do a great job of matching the plate exactly to the gasket surfaces,so it sticks out a little,but it would be impossible to notice under the air cleaner. or you could just place a small ball bearing inside the vaccume hose that goes to the egr. it helps during WOT and doesn't overheat the heads.

 

This question will be argued until the end of time. The new LS1's 'simulate' EGR by cam choice. Ask me again if its 100% necessary.

I missed it before, but I see you are choosing the SD system. In that case, you MUST reprogram the chip otherwise it will set a code with the EGR disconnected.

 

thanks for all the help guys!


yeah that's why i posted this question. the guy that is doing my cpu wanted to know if i was going to use it. i guess from the responses it pretty much doesn't help or hurt anything. i'm going to go without it, just one thing less to worry about having to replace in the future.

that's the way i'm going to run my fuel pump, externally. seems like alot less of a headache. i'm going to have a fitting soldered on to the fuel sending unit for the return line. thanks again for the help. see ya