Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
#1
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Hey all so i really need to get this tpi pump into my tank. I want to do the job myself just not sure if i have the ability to do it in my garage. All i have is a floor jack and set of jack stands. What im curious about is how high off the ground does the a$$ of the car need to be in order to be able to have the rear end dropped, and then wiggle the tank out?
How did you do it?
Is this possible with a floor jack/stands?
Would you have paid some one to do it again?
Enlighten me with some success stories!
Thanks for your time and information!
How did you do it?
Is this possible with a floor jack/stands?
Would you have paid some one to do it again?
Enlighten me with some success stories!
Thanks for your time and information!
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 11-18-2016 at 01:58 PM.
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Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
About 40 inches from ground to arch of wheel well. What I found out is to get the front up about a foot also. Put it on Race Ramps. That way it doesn't "look as bad" and will give a little room if you need to disconnect the pipe at the Cat. HTH
Myself and a buddy did it start to finish in 4 hours
It was easy, no rusted parts/bolts
And when it was over with, we had pizza and beer. Good times
And saved around 400 bucks
Get a quality pump/screen sock and all, and if you have spendable income, put in a new float assembly
Was not bad at all. That was 15 years ago, 100k miles, with a GM pump. Drove the car yesterday. No issues
Bob
Myself and a buddy did it start to finish in 4 hours
It was easy, no rusted parts/bolts
And when it was over with, we had pizza and beer. Good times
And saved around 400 bucks
Get a quality pump/screen sock and all, and if you have spendable income, put in a new float assembly
Was not bad at all. That was 15 years ago, 100k miles, with a GM pump. Drove the car yesterday. No issues
Bob
Last edited by Bob88GTA; 11-18-2016 at 03:09 PM.
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
As stated above, but basically just high enough for the rear end to drop down as much as it will allow. Once it stops, there's no point to go any higher.
If you don't run into any really stupid stuff like I did, you should be fine. I was swapping my tank and the elbow was at a different angle, wouldn't go in. That was a few days of headache/welding/etc.
If you don't run into any really stupid stuff like I did, you should be fine. I was swapping my tank and the elbow was at a different angle, wouldn't go in. That was a few days of headache/welding/etc.
#4
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
About 40 inches from ground to arch of wheel well. What I found out is to get the front up about a foot also. Put it on Race Ramps. That way it doesn't "look as bad" and will give a little room if you need to disconnect the pipe at the Cat. HTH
Myself and a buddy did it start to finish in 4 hours
It was easy, no rusted parts/bolts
And when it was over with, we had pizza and beer. Good times
And saved around 400 bucks
Get a quality pump/screen sock and all, and if you have spendable income, put in a new float assembly
Was not bad at all. That was 15 years ago, 100k miles, with a GM pump. Drove the car yesterday. No issues
Bob
Myself and a buddy did it start to finish in 4 hours
It was easy, no rusted parts/bolts
And when it was over with, we had pizza and beer. Good times
And saved around 400 bucks
Get a quality pump/screen sock and all, and if you have spendable income, put in a new float assembly
Was not bad at all. That was 15 years ago, 100k miles, with a GM pump. Drove the car yesterday. No issues
Bob
yeah i have a AC Delco Fuel pump & screen waiting to be installed, sounds good!
As stated above, but basically just high enough for the rear end to drop down as much as it will allow. Once it stops, there's no point to go any higher.
If you don't run into any really stupid stuff like I did, you should be fine. I was swapping my tank and the elbow was at a different angle, wouldn't go in. That was a few days of headache/welding/etc.
If you don't run into any really stupid stuff like I did, you should be fine. I was swapping my tank and the elbow was at a different angle, wouldn't go in. That was a few days of headache/welding/etc.
Once again thanks all for your time and advice!
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 11-19-2016 at 12:04 AM.
#5
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Yup remove the exhaust disconnect the shocks and the brake line bracket mounted on the drivers side and rotate the tank to drop it out. If you dont you risk cracking the tank at the filler neck. Ask he how I know. Spray all your nuts and bolts with pb blaster or wd40 the day before you start.
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Yup remove the exhaust disconnect the shocks and the brake line bracket mounted on the drivers side and rotate the tank to drop it out. If you dont you risk cracking the tank at the filler neck. Ask he how I know. Spray all your nuts and bolts with pb blaster or wd40 the day before you start.
Do you guys think i should pull the fuel pump relay and kick over my car a couple times to get most of the fuel out of the lines before going and breaking them loose? The pump in the tank is fine still i just want to get this TPI pump in.
Also how did you guys handle the brake lines on the rear axle? Where the able to come loose enough so that the axle can hang no problems?
Once again thanks all!
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Unbolt the lines from the body of the car to allow that extra movement.
You're doing what I did, over thinking it. Just get out there and do it; it's very straightforward.
You're doing what I did, over thinking it. Just get out there and do it; it's very straightforward.
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#8
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
EDIT: lol
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 11-19-2016 at 11:30 PM.
#9
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
LOL, I feel your pain, as a retired aircraft mechanic I too over do it on my automotive wrenching. My buddies make fun of my safety wiring and thread locker, but I never have loose header bolts either.
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Put the rear in the air till the front bumper almost touches the ground.
#11
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
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Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
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Car: 1989 Camaro I-ROCZw/T-Tops
Engine: 5.7L
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Hey all so i really need to get this tpi pump into my tank. I want to do the job myself just not sure if i have the ability to do it in my garage. All i have is a floor jack and set of jack stands. What im curious about is how high off the ground does the a$$ of the car need to be in order to be able to have the rear end dropped, and then wiggle the tank out?
How did you do it?
Is this possible with a floor jack/stands?
Would you have paid some one to do it again?
Enlighten me with some success stories!
Thanks for your time and information!
How did you do it?
Is this possible with a floor jack/stands?
Would you have paid some one to do it again?
Enlighten me with some success stories!
Thanks for your time and information!
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Car: 1989 Camaro I-ROCZw/T-Tops
Engine: 5.7L
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Seems like it would be much easier and faster, but I've never done it.
#15
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Its not easier nor faster as just stated. Takes just as long if not longer then the correct way.
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
the trap door method is highly hated on this site since it's hacking up" a car that otherwise didn't need to be messed with.
my opinion on it is that I wouldn't do it to my car but if I bought a car that the previous owner did it to and my fuel pump went, I'd sure be happy he did it.
my opinion on it is that I wouldn't do it to my car but if I bought a car that the previous owner did it to and my fuel pump went, I'd sure be happy he did it.
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
**** i still havent done this...
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
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Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
I did the tank on our new car this last weekend! Fun (not), but still better than cutting up the car. Refreshed the rear suspension while we were back there.
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
truth be told thats why im trying to get myself motivated and get under there! Back in November i purchased new springs, shocks and couple other goodies but still havent done anything with them. I've had this TPI pump in my closet now for over 3 years and it hasnt moved. Its time... im serious this time lol
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
It's not nearly as bad as people would have you believe. If the car isnt rusty, it's all just a matter of disassembly. Drop the axle down, open the torque arm mount, and roll the axle as far forward out of the way as possible. Get the exhaust out of the way, and you should have plenty of room to wrangle the filler neck out of the frame rail.
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Will i need to remove more exhaust to get that gas tank out? Should i cut more out?
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
You need to remove the bit going over the axle. I can tell you from me doing this last weekend that you won't be able to skirt it by that.
If you can disconnect it at the cat, do it there and just drop it down. If not pick a place in the middle of the car that a muffler shop can have easy access to weld to, and cut it there. You can use a coupler from AutoZone to get you by in the meantime before getting it re-welded.
You don't have to "roll the axle" as described in the previous post. Not sure what that's about but I never had to do that.
After that:
> Remove Sway Arm End Links
> Remove Rear Shock Bottom Bolts
> Drop rear down a tad more
> Loosen hangers for brake lines so they don't bind
> Remove Track / Panhard Bars (2 screws go in the track bar from heat shield)
> Drop rear end as far as it will go (have the car on stands on the frame rails)
> Remove heat shields
> Disconnect fuel lines
> Support tank with something (I used a spare jack and a box to just put some upward weight on it)
> Remove Straps, drop tank out towards passenger side, leaning it so the filler neck can skirt out.
If you can disconnect it at the cat, do it there and just drop it down. If not pick a place in the middle of the car that a muffler shop can have easy access to weld to, and cut it there. You can use a coupler from AutoZone to get you by in the meantime before getting it re-welded.
You don't have to "roll the axle" as described in the previous post. Not sure what that's about but I never had to do that.
After that:
> Remove Sway Arm End Links
> Remove Rear Shock Bottom Bolts
> Drop rear down a tad more
> Loosen hangers for brake lines so they don't bind
> Remove Track / Panhard Bars (2 screws go in the track bar from heat shield)
> Drop rear end as far as it will go (have the car on stands on the frame rails)
> Remove heat shields
> Disconnect fuel lines
> Support tank with something (I used a spare jack and a box to just put some upward weight on it)
> Remove Straps, drop tank out towards passenger side, leaning it so the filler neck can skirt out.
Last edited by thtanner; 03-18-2017 at 12:33 PM.
#23
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
You need to remove the bit going over the axle. I can tell you from me doing this last weekend that you won't be able to skirt it by that.
If you can disconnect it at the cat, do it there and just drop it down. If not pick a place in the middle of the car that a muffler shop can have easy access to weld to, and cut it there. You can use a coupler from AutoZone to get you by in the meantime before getting it re-welded.
You don't have to "roll the axle" as described in the previous post. Not sure what that's about but I never had to do that.
After that:
> Remove Sway Arm End Links
> Remove Rear Shock Bottom Bolts
> Drop rear down a tad more
> Loosen hangers for brake lines so they don't bind
> Remove Track / Panhard Bars (2 screws go in the track bar from heat shield)
> Drop rear end as far as it will go (have the car on stands on the frame rails)
> Remove heat shields
> Disconnect fuel lines
> Support tank with something (I used a spare jack and a box to just put some upward weight on it)
> Remove Straps, drop tank out towards passenger side, leaning it so the filler neck can skirt out.
If you can disconnect it at the cat, do it there and just drop it down. If not pick a place in the middle of the car that a muffler shop can have easy access to weld to, and cut it there. You can use a coupler from AutoZone to get you by in the meantime before getting it re-welded.
You don't have to "roll the axle" as described in the previous post. Not sure what that's about but I never had to do that.
After that:
> Remove Sway Arm End Links
> Remove Rear Shock Bottom Bolts
> Drop rear down a tad more
> Loosen hangers for brake lines so they don't bind
> Remove Track / Panhard Bars (2 screws go in the track bar from heat shield)
> Drop rear end as far as it will go (have the car on stands on the frame rails)
> Remove heat shields
> Disconnect fuel lines
> Support tank with something (I used a spare jack and a box to just put some upward weight on it)
> Remove Straps, drop tank out towards passenger side, leaning it so the filler neck can skirt out.
#24
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
With that out of the way the rest will go fast now.
I forgot to note the rear springs will come out with the axle dropping. Note orientation of spring on the rubber isolator for reinstall. Good time to swap since new Moog springs are under 50$
Let us know how it goes!
I forgot to note the rear springs will come out with the axle dropping. Note orientation of spring on the rubber isolator for reinstall. Good time to swap since new Moog springs are under 50$
Let us know how it goes!
#25
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Ive owned this thing for over 8 years and have never touched the suspension, cant wait to see how its going to feel!
#27
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Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Nice! What brand did you go with on those pieces and how are you liking them so far? Also what exhaust is that? 3.5"?
#28
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Founders Performance on the rear goodies. I went with non-adjustable as I don't plan to lower the car, or make it an autocross machine. Just a Daily Driver that hits the canyons occasionally.
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...s-panhard-bar/
The exhaust is a 3", but I'll be swapping it to true dual 2 1/4s since I have room now. That will be after the intake upgrades (SuperRam upper and lower, SLP 1 3/4 headers). Debating if I should swap heads and cam at the same time...
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...s-panhard-bar/
The exhaust is a 3", but I'll be swapping it to true dual 2 1/4s since I have room now. That will be after the intake upgrades (SuperRam upper and lower, SLP 1 3/4 headers). Debating if I should swap heads and cam at the same time...
#29
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Founders Performance on the rear goodies. I went with non-adjustable as I don't plan to lower the car, or make it an autocross machine. Just a Daily Driver that hits the canyons occasionally.
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...s-panhard-bar/
The exhaust is a 3", but I'll be swapping it to true dual 2 1/4s since I have room now. That will be after the intake upgrades (SuperRam upper and lower, SLP 1 3/4 headers). Debating if I should swap heads and cam at the same time...
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...s-panhard-bar/
The exhaust is a 3", but I'll be swapping it to true dual 2 1/4s since I have room now. That will be after the intake upgrades (SuperRam upper and lower, SLP 1 3/4 headers). Debating if I should swap heads and cam at the same time...
I wish there was some canyons to drive in here in the valley. everythings flat for miles
#30
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
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Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
What is this?
After pulling my muffler down and cleaning it down for a quick one i heard some rattling coming from within it. I peered inside and noticed this, i was able to pull it out.
EDIT: after more research it looks like catalytic converter honeycomb material... ****
After pulling my muffler down and cleaning it down for a quick one i heard some rattling coming from within it. I peered inside and noticed this, i was able to pull it out.
EDIT: after more research it looks like catalytic converter honeycomb material... ****
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 03-19-2017 at 12:01 AM. Reason: more info
#32
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
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Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
#33
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Just did my fuel pump tonight in my 87 GTA. Wasn't as bad as I thought but I also have access to a lift. I did pull the carpet to make sure someone didn't do a trap door before I started. Glad to see it was unharmed. I do wish I would have had the extra funds to upgrade the rear suspension while I was under there. The shocks are new as are the sway bar links. After doing mine I will recommend not cutting a hole to access it, with a lift and never doing it before only took 3 hours including me rewelding the exhaust.
#34
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Just did my fuel pump tonight in my 87 GTA. Wasn't as bad as I thought but I also have access to a lift. I did pull the carpet to make sure someone didn't do a trap door before I started. Glad to see it was unharmed. I do wish I would have had the extra funds to upgrade the rear suspension while I was under there. The shocks are new as are the sway bar links. After doing mine I will recommend not cutting a hole to access it, with a lift and never doing it before only took 3 hours including me rewelding the exhaust.
Cut off exhaust from rear axle back.
removed back seat and pulled carpet back
Replaced fuel filter
removed swaybar and endlinks.
soaked all other bolts with PB blaster
Hopefully it will all go smooth! I will update
EDIT: last question if any one sees this BEFORE tomorrow morning.... while doing the sway bar and fuel filter couple hours ago i was just looking at the other items to pull and whats left.
One thing i had trouble identifying was the rear brake line bolt connecting it to the frame? Everyone says to let the brake lines loose from frame so that they have more room to flex but i was having trouble figuring out what/where i would do this.
Any last minute information/advice is GREATLY appreciated.
Once again, thanks everyone for your time!
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 03-22-2017 at 11:58 PM.
#35
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Driver side, close to high pressure fuel line connection. Infront of sway bar link.
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Car: 88GTA
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
"removed back seat and pulled carpet back".....Why?
#37
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Hey Bob88GTA, are you going to the AR show in April at Summit Racing? I noticed you are in Huntsville.
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Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Anyone use the energy suspension rear sway bar bushings? endlinks seem way too small... wont fit. been stuck for over an hour.
#42
Senior Member
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
By too small do you mean the bolt is not long enough?
#43
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
I was unaware the suspenion needs to be 'loaded' when final tightening at endlinks. Once i got it on the ground it bolted up no prob lol.
Whew! ok guys its done and running~!! I ****ing did it. The rear is really tight now!!! It honestly feels like a different car, even though the front is still ****. now i need to get up front and get these struts, front springs in.
Things i noticed for first timers like myself:
This would be MUCH easier at certain points with an extra set of hands/eyes, guess thats what i get for having a nonexistent social life.
37-38" is as high as you can lift the car before it will just pull the rear end up with it (that is when still connect at rear control arms, torque arm and driveshaft.)
The tank almost HAS to come out at a certain angle, because of the filler neck. Be prepared for a wrestle. What i will say is this; pull out, down then to the front passenger side and turn. Thats how i finally got it out. When i put it back in i swear it pretty much slid right in, i dont know why. I believe those who stated they didnt drop the rear end and did it are full of it.
If you dont know when the last time your endlinks were changed, order some new ones. Both of mine endlinks had the bolts pretty much seized on it. One eventually unscrewed (after 45mins of quarter/half turns). THANK GOD the 2nd one actually broke. If you are going with Energy suspension endlinks/bushings, the suspension needs to be loaded for them to bolt up correctly.
If you are going from TBI fuel pump to TPI fuel pump and still running TBI (or lower pressure) CHECK YOUR LINES IN ENGINE BAY. I was just making sure nothing was leaking at first start up, and what do you know there was a large leak at my return line behind the throttle body. I was able to tighten it down and its solid now.
Done with the job? Go buy yourself a beer or pack a bowl (or both) and relax with your new fuel pump/ rear suspension!! Im really glad/excited that i was able to do this all on my own. Awesome feeling
EDIT: Also, make sure your hitting the correct 'lid' on top of the fuel tank when removing the sending unit. Ive done fuel pumps on two modern cars that had true access panels under the back seat (simple job). Those locking rings were on the outer rim, while as this one is on the inside.
Whew! ok guys its done and running~!! I ****ing did it. The rear is really tight now!!! It honestly feels like a different car, even though the front is still ****. now i need to get up front and get these struts, front springs in.
Things i noticed for first timers like myself:
This would be MUCH easier at certain points with an extra set of hands/eyes, guess thats what i get for having a nonexistent social life.
37-38" is as high as you can lift the car before it will just pull the rear end up with it (that is when still connect at rear control arms, torque arm and driveshaft.)
The tank almost HAS to come out at a certain angle, because of the filler neck. Be prepared for a wrestle. What i will say is this; pull out, down then to the front passenger side and turn. Thats how i finally got it out. When i put it back in i swear it pretty much slid right in, i dont know why. I believe those who stated they didnt drop the rear end and did it are full of it.
If you dont know when the last time your endlinks were changed, order some new ones. Both of mine endlinks had the bolts pretty much seized on it. One eventually unscrewed (after 45mins of quarter/half turns). THANK GOD the 2nd one actually broke. If you are going with Energy suspension endlinks/bushings, the suspension needs to be loaded for them to bolt up correctly.
If you are going from TBI fuel pump to TPI fuel pump and still running TBI (or lower pressure) CHECK YOUR LINES IN ENGINE BAY. I was just making sure nothing was leaking at first start up, and what do you know there was a large leak at my return line behind the throttle body. I was able to tighten it down and its solid now.
Done with the job? Go buy yourself a beer or pack a bowl (or both) and relax with your new fuel pump/ rear suspension!! Im really glad/excited that i was able to do this all on my own. Awesome feeling
EDIT: Also, make sure your hitting the correct 'lid' on top of the fuel tank when removing the sending unit. Ive done fuel pumps on two modern cars that had true access panels under the back seat (simple job). Those locking rings were on the outer rim, while as this one is on the inside.
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 03-23-2017 at 08:53 PM.
#45
Senior Member
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Congrats man, I did my first one last night and I am thankful I had a lift. A second set of hands would have been nice but I work better on my stuff alone lol. Not knocking anyone who wants to cut their own car but after doing mine I would recommend keeping the floorpan the way GM designed it. Glad it went well for you.
#46
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Just wanted to say THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE for helping out with your time/information and advice! It Wouldnt have been possible with out this website!
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 03-24-2017 at 12:07 AM.
#47
Senior Member
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
My next project is checking my disk brake 9 bolt out of my donar car. Any advice would be appreciated. I hear parts are hard to find.
#48
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
Congrats man, I did my first one last night and I am thankful I had a lift. A second set of hands would have been nice but I work better on my stuff alone lol. Not knocking anyone who wants to cut their own car but after doing mine I would recommend keeping the floorpan the way GM designed it. Glad it went well for you.
I also work much better alone, pretty much on anything. Just certain things like actually holding the tank up while on my back would of been easier with another set of hands to guide.
Well your at the right place! This website/forum has many intelligent/easy going people that love to help.
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 03-23-2017 at 08:55 PM.
#49
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
So unfortunately somethings not right with the suspension. When going at an angle over large driveway entrances (into parking lots and liquor stores) i hear a weird POP sound coming from my rear passenger side. Sounds like the spring or shock is getting caught and releasing tension and hitting the frame of car. I did re use the original bump stops. I thought i "indexed" the upper coil correctly, but maybe i didnt.
Its only from the rear passenger side and not from the rear driver side and ONLY when going at angle over a large driveway. When going straight up/down personal drive way there is no sound, everything seems perfect....
any ideas where to start? One thing to note, ive checked every bolt already and everything is tight as i can get with hand tools. The top shock mounts are a b1tch to grab (because you have to hold the top small *** mount with a crescent) but they seem tight as i can get.
Its only from the rear passenger side and not from the rear driver side and ONLY when going at angle over a large driveway. When going straight up/down personal drive way there is no sound, everything seems perfect....
any ideas where to start? One thing to note, ive checked every bolt already and everything is tight as i can get with hand tools. The top shock mounts are a b1tch to grab (because you have to hold the top small *** mount with a crescent) but they seem tight as i can get.
#50
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: Fuel Pump Replacement; How high does the rear of car need to be in the air?
So these ****ing sway bar endlinks are the cause of the loud pop. I just spent 4 hours redoing my suspension, dropping the rear end, unbolting shocks, reindexing springs MULTIPLE TIMES. With no help. I even moved over the passenger side shock and spring to driver side and the loud pop was still there. I said screw it "i wonder" if i take these endlinks off will it cause that sound? and what do you know it yupp, its these Energy suspension end links, or maybe my installation yet not sure how else you can put it on. I think i had them on too tight or something but the damn stud they supply is SO DAMN SMALL that its kinda scary driving around with only a couple threads holding onto it, thats why i actually had it tight. Can anyone else chime in with these damn things. so glad to know its not a bad shock or messed up spring. AND now im a damn pro at dropping the rear in this car lol
So right now the sway bar is just bolted to the rear end hanging there.
EDIT: im thnking about going and grabbing some duracrap and just throwing my poly bushings on it.
http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s..._461303_0_4145
EDIT #2: actually looks like the duralast swaybar links are manufactured by moog.
So right now the sway bar is just bolted to the rear end hanging there.
EDIT: im thnking about going and grabbing some duracrap and just throwing my poly bushings on it.
http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s..._461303_0_4145
EDIT #2: actually looks like the duralast swaybar links are manufactured by moog.
Last edited by Ghettobird52; 03-24-2017 at 08:13 PM.